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Unusual bulb design for LED, I've seen some encased in faux (acrylic plastic) glass domes but nothing like that where the glass appears to be real.

^ T10 only describes a wedge based bulb with nominal 10mm base width, while the bulb #s further differentiate that size into wattage or light output (especially for LED bulbs, what the manufacturer suggests that they are meant to replace, "IF" you can trust the manufacturer on that). #194 has...

See this picture of the back of the gauge panel. As far as I know (could be wrong) there are the 6 #194 cluster illumination bulbs in the black holders, and most of, it not all the rest are the beige colored holders for the indicator lamps, using #161.

There are a few circuits that stay live with ignition off, but you seem to want one that only stays live for a shorter period than (forever)? There are some DIY circuits you could build to keep a relay toggled on for X amount of time after power stops, but the easiest way would be to tap into...

Welcome to the forum! IDK a part #, maybe this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/277332513341 You mentioned GM brake cable equalizer and from the pics I see when I search for that, it looks like a simple straight piece like what is included in some Rock Auto cables like RAYBESTOS BC95388 Element 3...

There are a couple relays potentially involved, so I'd investigate that next, the battery saver and accessory delay relays. Somewhere... there's a topic... with a post... with good pics... I found this one, but I had posted one with a looking-in view from the driver's footwell up into where...

I'd hook up a scan tool capable of Ford specific codes and live data, and look at long term fuel trims. That'll tell you if it's running lean, then if it is, without any smoke test leaks observed, check fuel pressure on the fuel rail valve (should be high 30's to low 40's PSI) and if okay...

Welcome to the forum! I'd hook up a scan tool capable of Ford specific codes (and pull any codes) and live data and look at the long term fuel trim, if going very positive then yes it seems like a vac leak, or low fuel pressure, or dirty MAF sensor, or bad temp sensor. Also note any other live...

Your vehicle but if there is water ingress, pull the bulb and blow some air in. Look for a seam leak and throw some RTV on it. If water is pooling, put in a drain hole. If the outside has UV /oxidation damage, polish them out and coat them to slow that down. It takes a few minutes. Far less...

You might even get a thin o-ring to work.

^ I'd think it more likely a frayed wire than that connector getting fouled, but the diagrams are linked in my sig, besides these two of the connector itself shown on post #3 of this topic...

I'd start with the electrical system, check battery voltage, check battery clamp tightness and corrosion, battery clamp to wire corrosion, and battery ground cable termination. How old is the battery? Was it cranking fast when you started it? I once had a case where my '98's alternator...

We can't see your first link to "Yaw rate sensor update question" which appears to be a PM directly to you, only. However, the part # referenced in your 2nd link, is available used on ebay... at least I think the minor part # differences won't matter but I could be wrong...

I am unable to find this part, but given enough effort, you might be able to adapt something to work. Rock Auto has several yaw rate sensors available, but nothing tied to 2003 Explorer compatibility. You might take a good look at yours and note the shape and connector pin arrangement to try...

Welcome to the forum! The VIN will tell a dealer shop what cut a key needs to fit the ignition cylinder, which isn't needed if the old key is present to copy. It won't do anything about the chip in it. Even if they could pull up the unique ID coding of the chip in an original key, new keys...

The key can't really go bad unless there was severe crushing damage to it. The PATS module could forget that it's programmed in, but that is why you need to get the trouble code to determine what it's not getting that it needs to work. The code will give a strong hint about what has gone wrong.

fuelsys1 cl fault makes me wonder if you have an intake manifold leak, but as others mentioned, I'd check fuel pressure just to rule that out. What are your long term fuel trims on bank 1 and 2, now and when the fault happens?

If you mean that the theft light starts to blink rapidly when you try to start it, then that's a PATS problem. You can hook up a scan tool capable of Ford-specific codes or when it starts blinking rapidly trying to start it, wait a minute then count the blink code which will be a 2 digit with a...

Welcome to the forum! You should request that a mod delete your redundant topic in the new member into forum, since this topic jumped right into the issue you're having which is still covered in this more appropriate forum. You could put refrigerant in that has a UV dye, then maybe see where...

I could be wrong but think that looks too clean to be PTU fluid with 128K mi. on it, and would get under the vehicle for a better look, wondering if it is brake fluid. Then again, you'd HOPE that a competent shop could tell it's the PTU and they claimed it was, but then a competent shop, should...

^ There are wiring diagrams for many, if not all the different radios offered, linked below in my sig, but I mean the vehicle power circuit, not schematics for the radios themselves. A base radio has the amp circuit in it, while at least a couple of the higher trim radios have a separate amp...

Hook it up to a scan tool capable of ford specific codes and real time data. See if any of the data looks off including long term fuel trim. Search youtube for no code misfire and then if you identify the cylinder, check for spark (but it's probably fine to have few enough misfires to not...

This makes no sense. if you never had an OEM part fail, then what experience would you have replacing parts? It is a design defect if it fails prematurely. There are wear items, but again it has nothing to do with OEM replacements. This is a waste of time. You do you, and pay a premium, and...

Just stop. You don't want to put any thought into it and that's okay. Motorcraft parts won't do you wrong but you're paying a pretty penny for them instead of investing the time to learn more. Again, oil is the most ridiculous topic to focus on. It will run fine on any oil spec that meets...

That does not justify illogical assumptions about commodities like oil or spark plugs. Everyone has vehicles that just "has to work". Response unit isn't any different than the owner who needs to get to work or school or just the grocery store so they can eat. Everyone needs their vehicle to...

Motorcraft oil is designed for WHICH engine? Motorcraft synthetic blend is fine for these vehicles, but not at all the best, and not the best bang for the buck either. It would take a somewhat severe duty service to need more than the Motorcraft blend, but make no mistake that it's a higher...

^ Seems a bit overkill, there are a fair amount of quality aftermarket parts, but certain aftermarket suppliers who deal in too many parts like Dorman or Beck Arnley (and AC Delco to a lesser degree), are importers from various manufacturers and the quality from part to part can vary, while a...

Details! ... will help others in the future.

Details please!

I don't know if it matters, but the Dorman tensioner listed on Rock Auto states Pulley Bearing Diameter (MM)61.5 mm, while RA shows the Motorcraft BT97 has outside diameter 2.76", which would be 70.1 mm. Belt JK6457-A is for the heavy duty alternator on RA's listings, but I would've thought...

I doubt that you could find one new but even if you did, it may have been sitting around for 25 years, and dry rotten by now. Best bet is buy standard hose by the foot from an auto parts store, take the old hose with you if it helps to identify inner diameter needed. If it needs custom bends...

It has a permanently bonded rubber portion, you'd just replace the whole thing if the rubber is shot. Backing up, have you tried momentarily running the engine without the belt, to be sure it is the belt system? Does spraying water anywhere quiet it down, if you're careful to spray only one at...

Anything can have transmission problems after 200K mi, priced under $3K leaves less spent on it and put some money aside for the eventual repairs it will need. You'd face same situation with any sub-$3K market value SUV.

Take the rubber fuel filler hose off the tank nipple and insert a hose into the tank and if that hose has a little curl in it, observe which way it curls and then it's all the better to help guide it down to the bottom of the tank. You can then use a pump rated for gasoline, or old fashion suck...

The environment your PTU has faced, hasn't been all that bad because you're getting clean looking oil dripping out which is very surprising after 128K miles without any fluid changes. It suggests that it is mechanically in good shape and a good candidate to have the seal(s) fixed. HOWEVER...

Do you just need the plastic pucks? Dorman makes a 3 pack kit of those, part # 74410 is available at many auto parts stores, amazon, etc. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-help/dorman-help-plastic-power-window-regulator-gear-plug/mtm0/74410 They're designed to shear off when there's...

My moog lower BJs with the redesigned, recessed boots, seem to be holding up fine. About 7 years ago I got what was supposed to be a Mevotech CMK8710T (the BJ portion of the upper passenger side, two piece design) but Rock Auto instead sent a Mevotech GK8710T. I almost returned it, but it was...

I don't know the correct resistance readings for the front wheel sensors your '95 with RWD, different sensor but for my 4WD with them in the hubs, the front were 420 ohms and rear around 1000 ohms. Your '95 appears to use same rear diff sensor as my '98, so the old at 1150 ohms seems about...

Don't know for a '95 but often the controller is next to the pump. Follow the wires from the pump to it?

Cut most of the way through the hose lengthwise a few times around the end next to the connector, heat it up and peel it off the connector. Wiggle a right angle pick in to get some room to grab the end of the hose with needle nose pliers right next to where you made one of the lengthwise cuts...