Help identifying a part

[everythinghurts]

Hi having issues still with my 95 Explorer 4.0 pushrod truck.
Can someone please help me identify the part I have circled in the picture and also tell me if the black button type thing is supposed to spin?

Issue is check engine is still on, and vehicle randomly dies while driving. All power is lost. I'm slowly working my way through all the issues.
We don't have a code reader that works on my vehicle so I'm doing my best right now.

 

[410Fortune]

Iac or idle air control valve

The black cap is a vent to atmosphere and yes it is supposed to spin

You need to check the codes the check engine light (cel) is likely telling you what the problem is
Aside from that from what you describe it sounds like a fuel issue
I would check fuel pressure especially when it gets hot and dies

What year is the truck? 91-95 the codes are checked with a paper clip 96-01 they are obd2 and a simple scanner will work

 

[everythinghurts]

Iac or idle air control valve

The black cap is a vent to atmosphere and yes it is supposed to spin

I would check fuel pressure especially when it gets hot and dies

Thank you very much!

 

[everythinghurts]

Iac or idle air control valve

The black cap is a vent to atmosphere and yes it is supposed to spin

You need to check the codes the check engine light (cel) is likely telling you what the problem is
Aside from that from what you describe it sounds like a fuel issue
I would check fuel pressure especially when it gets hot and dies

What year is the truck? 91-95 the codes are checked with a paper clip 96-01 they are obd2 and a simple scanner will work

It's a 95

 

[J_C]

Issue is check engine is still on, and vehicle randomly dies while driving. All power is lost.

Checking the codes is definitely something to do, but if you have power loss issues, you could also get phantom (false) codes, and of course if no power to the fuel pump, no fuel pressure.

Check the obvious things first such as battery terminal corrosion and a good cable ground. You might also inspect the bulk wire harness connectors up near the firewall.

When this happens, does it fire right back up or do you have time to do some testing even if side of the road with a multimeter? It would be useful to know exactly what does and doesn't keep working if "all" doesn't really mean "all", and where the power is interrupted. It might be helpful to have some wiring diagrams. There are some for 2nd gen in my sig below but I'm not sure if all are as applicable to a '95.

The IAC valve in your pic has nothing to do with the issue.

 

[everythinghurts]

Brand new battery, connectors have been cleaned.
When the car dies everything turns off. I can't even steer to get to the side of the road. I hit the brakes and put it in park then restart it. It fires right back up.

I took video of the codes but I honestly can't figure out what codes it's throwing at me. And it's too big of a file to attach.
We ordered a code reader so when that gets here I'll just have to see.

 

[410Fortune]

Everything means the engine and trans
Or everything means the dash? )all the lights and gauges)

If the engine is cutting out dead then I suspect the eec relay or fuel pump relay

If you lose the whole dash then it is an electrical connection usually at battery cables or fuse
Box(es)

 

[everythinghurts]

The engine, the dash lights, the steering.
Tran is automatic but I can still put it in park and start it up.

 

[Codyloks]

I HAVE A 200 FORD EXPLORER 4.0 AND THE IAC IS ON TOP I BELIEVE BUT I NEED HELP FINDING THE TUBE THAT GOES FROM THE INTAKE TO THE IAC

 

[J_C]

I HAVE A 200 FORD EXPLORER 4.0 AND THE IAC IS ON TOP I BELIEVE BUT I NEED HELP FINDING THE TUBE THAT GOES FROM THE INTAKE TO THE IAC

I doubt that you could find one new but even if you did, it may have been sitting around for 25 years, and dry rotten by now.

Best bet is buy standard hose by the foot from an auto parts store, take the old hose with you if it helps to identify inner diameter needed.

If it needs custom bends to not kink in the orientation it needs to be in, then there are youtube videos demonstrating various ways to use a tube bender or insert a filler to keep it from collapsing at the bend while you bend to the shape you need, then heat it with a heat gun, then let it cool, or in some cases you can use a right angle coupler to join two pieces of hose to route it where it needs to go without collapsing. To clarify this (heat setting a bend) is typically done on a workbench, not on the vehicle.

 

[Codyloks]

I doubt that you could find one new but even if you did, it may have been sitting around for 25 years, and dry rotten by now.

Best bet is buy standard hose by the foot from an auto parts store, take the old hose with you if it helps to identify inner diameter needed.

If it needs custom bends to not kink in the orientation it needs to be in, then there are youtube videos demonstrating various ways to use a tube bender or insert a filler to keep it from collapsing at the bend while you bend to the shape you need, then heat it with a heat gun, then let it cool, or in some cases you can use a right angle coupler to join two pieces of hose to route it where it needs to go without collapsing. To clarify this (heat setting a bend) is typically done on a workbench, not on the vehicle.

thanks it worked out

 

[J_C]

I doubt that you could find one new but even if you did, it may have been sitting around for 25 years, and dry rotten by now.

thanks it worked out

Details! ... will help others in the future.

 

[Blandy]

Hi having issues still with my 95 Explorer 4.0 pushrod truck.
Can someone please help me identify the part I have circled in the picture and also tell me if the black button type thing is supposed to spin?

Issue is check engine is still on, and vehicle randomly dies while driving. All power is lost. I'm slowly working my way through all the issues.
We don't have a code reader that works on my vehicle so I'm doing my best right now.

View attachment 451750

 

[Blandy]

What tube?

 

[Codyloks]

I doubt that you could find one new but even if you did, it may have been sitting around for 25 years, and dry rotten by now.

Best bet is buy standard hose by the foot from an auto parts store, take the old hose with you if it helps to identify inner diameter needed.

If it needs custom bends to not kink in the orientation it needs to be in, then there are youtube videos demonstrating various ways to use a tube bender or insert a filler to keep it from collapsing at the bend while you bend to the shape you need, then heat it with a heat gun, then let it cool, or in some cases you can use a right angle coupler to join two pieces of hose to route it where it needs to go without collapsing. To clarify this (heat setting a bend) is typically done on a workbench, not on the vehicle.

What I did I got A piece of heater hose and used that to join the two broken pieces together and it worked. No kinks or anything. It started right up, then. A bit a of trouble with the fuel filter. I fixed that but for some reason the theft light keeps blinking and keeps it from starting again and I seriously don’t know what it is

 

[Codyloks]

What tube?

I just used some heater hose to join the two broken pieces

 

[J_C]

What I did I got A piece of heater hose and used that to join the two broken pieces together and it worked. No kinks or anything. It started right up, then. A bit a of trouble with the fuel filter. I fixed that but for some reason the theft light keeps blinking and keeps it from starting again and I seriously don’t know what it is

If you mean that the theft light starts to blink rapidly when you try to start it, then that's a PATS problem.

You can hook up a scan tool capable of Ford-specific codes or when it starts blinking rapidly trying to start it, wait a minute then count the blink code which will be a 2 digit with a pause in the middle. There are a few topics discussing it, here's a post with the meaning of the codes:

98 Explorer suddenly won't start - doesn't fire

Mechanic called back, they replaced the PATS module and reprogrammed, and it still does the same thing. Out $110 for the locksmith, and they told me I now need to tow it to a dealer and pay them $95/hr to start diagnosing the problem... Once again symptoms: Suddenly won't start (was running...

www.explorerforum.com

Often it is the halo receiver that sits around the ignition lock cylinder but I've never seen a cause why they fail, especially after someone has been doing other work that isn't slightly related. I'd at least try disconnecting the battery for a minute to see if that helps. I mean vehicle battery not keyfob.

 

[Codyloks]

If you mean that the theft light starts to blink rapidly when you try to start it, then that's a PATS problem.

You can hook up a scan tool capable of Ford-specific codes or when it starts blinking rapidly trying to start it, wait a minute then count the blink code which will be a 2 digit with a pause in the middle. There are a few topics discussing it, here's a post with the meaning of the codes:

98 Explorer suddenly won't start - doesn't fire

Mechanic called back, they replaced the PATS module and reprogrammed, and it still does the same thing. Out $110 for the locksmith, and they told me I now need to tow it to a dealer and pay them $95/hr to start diagnosing the problem... Once again symptoms: Suddenly won't start (was running...

www.explorerforum.com

Often it is the halo receiver that sits around the ignition lock cylinder but I've never seen a cause why they fail, especially after someone has been doing other work that isn't slightly related. I'd at least try disconnecting the battery for a minute to see if that helps. I mean vehicle battery not keyfob.

well i only have one key. it did this befotre. idk how but it started after some time like days after but that when i had to do the work. idk how do i make sure if its tghe key or the attenna ??

 

[J_C]

The key can't really go bad unless there was severe crushing damage to it. The PATS module could forget that it's programmed in, but that is why you need to get the trouble code to determine what it's not getting that it needs to work. The code will give a strong hint about what has gone wrong.

 

[Codyloks]

I got a code 16