Search results

Well, at least they're consistent.

I know this is late, but I'm glad you got it! To avoid this next time, rap (not tap) the caliper a few times at the bleeder screw (don't hit the screw) with a hammer. Use a 6 pt. socket or wrench. Don't use heat.

Call when you are sitting down and oh yeah, don't use a cell phone or you WILL rack up serious minutes!;)

First, I would tell my wifey to take a nap. Or better yet, just rest her head on my lap. Secondly, as you may have guessed, kids shouldn't touch anything in the truck! I don't even want to hear, "are we there yet"? Seriously, I don't have an answer for you. I am just bringing your question back...

While I admire your diagnostic philosophy waskly, in this case I believe it was just a fof' friend of family discount.:salute:

oh yea... but that was in another thread... ouch.

Rusty got boned. After a pressure test turned up nothing, a bell should have rang, insert "ding". But what can Rusty do? Nothing, except raise his BP. He can tell everyone he knows, THAT dealer ripped him off. He can ask for his old parts back, but who's saying they will be HIS parts? He can...

I hear ya. Like the song goes, sometimes you're the windshield and sometimes you're the bug! On the bright side, you learned about gutting an alternator!

I agree with NoFear on the fan clutch, if you checked first for ANY obstructions at the condenser and radiator. Also, the air deflector under the rad support plays an important part.

I'm not so sure about this decision. Hindsight being 20/20, before replacing the tensioner and idler pulleys and replacing the alt bearings, you would have certainly been better off using the warranty you paid for.

It happens all the time. Obviously, the best way to avoid these things is simply diagnose and repair it yourself. You might have borrowed a pressure tester from an auto parts store like Autozone or Advance. You might have considered popping off the tank for a visual of the bottom. The tank...

I suppose you wouldn't need "rights" if you just told me how the circuit is run.;)

I concur with Rob on most points. There seems to be no performance gains in $$$ plugs. Most competitive racing teams use regular plugs. Synthetic oil, YES. splitfire plugs, NO. Auto makers utilize means to keep the comparative costs of maintenance as low as possible

I would kindly ask for second opinion with another mechanic. There surely must be signs of a leak somewhere if you are catching it in a bucket.

I tried to upgrade my 06' xlt (Right Side only) to a puddle lamp with heat. The wires were there, but it does not work. No fuses are missing (no contacts in any unused holders) nor any unused relay holders with contacts. Might I need the drivers side also to complete the circuit? Does anyone...

Mine started leaking slightly on the drivers side around 25,000 miles. Kept an eye on it, then took to dealer @36,000 miles.36,086 exactly. (they gave me a little hard time about being over and wanted me to pay $100. They eventually did it free.) First day they found nothing wrong! I told...