Issue bleeding/flushing brakes....help?!?!

[4wardmotion]

2007 Explorer, V-8.

I thought I had a 1 hour job this morning....so far, I'm 2 hours into it, and I haven't made any headway.
I'm all set to flush new fluid through my brake system, but unless I'm doing something wrong, I can't loosen the nipple on my first caliper to start the flow.
I know they caution you not to over-tighten these, but I don't think the factory got the message!
Unless these are reverse-threaded....or perhaps it's not the nipple that I'm supposed to be loosening, the nipple should have loosened by now. And it seems to be a strange size - 3/8" too small, 7/16" too big, so I was using a 10 mm wrench, but the nipple is so tight, I've started to round it off. I got out the vise grips but still it won't budge.
I'm hesitant to use a torch because of what's around where I'm working and the liquid wrench I've tried is flammable.

So, is anyone familiar with the brake bleeding/flushing process that can tell me if I'm doing something wrong??

I'm suppose to be at Easter Dinner in an hour!!!

 

[edwx]

They are probably seized/rusted. When I bought my '06 two years ago used, with only 33K miles on it, I immediately tried to loosen the bleeders. Three of then loosened and one snapped off. Luckily it didn't leak. Honestly I have never bleed the brakes on an X. I've owned 3 of them and the last 2 had about 180K miles when I got rid of them. All I've ever done is siphoned or sucked the fluid out of the reservoir and refilled it, and let the new fluid work into the system. I'm not suggesting this is the way to do it, it's only what I've done.

 

[4wardmotion]

I'm going to pick up a couple of the nipples from the dealership (hopefully they have them in stock) before I attempt this again - I'll want to replace this one, if I ever get it off.

Maybe the Liquid Wrench I've hit it with will seep in better over the next day or so.

 

[4wardmotion]

Although I would assume my local Ford dealer would have the brake nipples / valves / screws that I need, I did a little searching online.

It looks like Pep Boys have the PROSTOP rear bleeder screws that I need - the cost is only $3.99 each. Auto Parts Warehouse has the 'genuine Motorcraft' screws for $17.89, which is their discounted price. Going by that, I would assume the Ford dealer would probably be asking at least $20 each for these.

I'm thinking I'll take a chance on the $4 screws from Pep Boys...unless someone here has some information that would have me steer clear of the PROSTOP version...???

 

[4wardmotion]

My dealership did not have any so I went to Pep Boys and picked up a set of 2 PROSTOP bleeder screws for $3.99 - what a deal!

When I got home, I removed the top caliper screw so I could get at the bleeder screw easier. I tried a few things without success and finally got my large channel-lock style wrench that has some aggressive 'jaws'. That finally did the trick and I was able to get the part replaced.

I finished the flushing / bleeding but not until after 1 more crappy experience. I had attached my pump /flusher and thought all was okay, but half-way through bleeding the first caliper I heard a Pop! I found the pump / flushed had come off of the reservoir and splashed brake fluid all over the inside of the engine.
Needless to say, after I was done, my entire hood/engine/windshield got a very good cleaning with Castrol SuperClean. I hope I got it all off.
Engine looks brand new again!

 

[mechanic62]

I know this is late, but I'm glad you got it! To avoid this next time, rap (not tap) the caliper a few times at the bleeder screw (don't hit the screw) with a hammer. Use a 6 pt. socket or wrench. Don't use heat.

 

[NoFear95]

I use a shot of penatrating fluid about 5-10 minutes before using and have no issues.