Search results

Found them locally.

I need the full set of bellhousing to engine block bolts (the long and short ones) for my 91 Ranger with the 4.0/M5R1, that are in good shape. I know I could just go to Fastenal and get them, but I would prefer a good used set of Ford ones. Let me know if you got them. Thanks.

I got lucky and found one that came from the factory that way.

Most just buy the M5R2 and t-case from the F-150 and use them both. I'm not sure about the drive shafts but I'm thinking that they'll most likely need to be changed.

I plan on doing a 5.0 5-speed swap while keeping it 4x4 on my Explorer in the summer. From what I've read the best fitting trans and t-case will be out of a 97-04 V6 F-150. They say the shifter lines right up so you don't have to cut a bigger hole or anything and it has the same pattern as a 5.0l.

I just checked LMC truck and I got the bump stops and then some. Thanks for the tip.

Does anyone know the part number or where to get the little rubber bump stops for the rear hatch?

My truck had the same exact symptoms as yours and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. It's pretty easy to replace, it's just in a tight spot. It makes it 5x easier if you take the top radiator hose off at the thermostat housing.

That's one awesome company truck. Ha.

Thats one of best front bumper set ups I've ever seen on a Explorer.

The tire that blew was the spare. Which was most likely way under inflated.

The bushings in that bushing kit didn't fit my doors either so I just bought the whole striker which was only a couple bucks more than the kit.

I'm in Illinois, but I'm trying to get out.

Which engine does this M5OD-R1 bolt to? The spot for the starter is on the passenger side.

Ha, I would have just done that but unfortunately I live near Chicago so I kinda need heat. Here's how I fixed it. I ground off that nub that you can see in the photo in my first post and drilled a small hole where it was. I found a small self tapping screw on the floor of my T-bird so...

Did you try to spin the motor by hand? If it was under water and hasn't ran since may those cylinder walls could be pretty rusty.

The two clips for the blend door cable in the picture (circled in red) are broken. Can I just replace that blue lever or do I have to replace the whole control panel? Also does anyone know anywhere to buy that cable besides the junkyard?

So if I wanted to put a carbed 5.0 in a 1st gen Explorer Sport but keep it 4x4 with a manual trans and transfer case the best way to go about it would be to get a M5OD-R2 and BW4406 out of a 97-03 F-150 with the 4.2 v6. Does that sound right?