Search results

Leave the stock air box and filter alone. Those so called "cold air intakes" are a bunch of snake oil and just allow hot air into your intake which actually reduces power. You only think it makes more power because the intake is louder due to the baffles being removed. The factory intake is...

You can buy the new or refurbished radio face online and change it yourself or you can have it repaired. the wiper gets worn and causes this.

Terrible way to put a band aid on it. That expanding foam looks really bad. Just do it the right way or repair/rig it under the dash.

Most batteries you'll find at the big box stores and auto part stores are manufactured by Johnson Controls in Mexico. They are just marked differently for the specific store. I always buy the cheapest battery with the best warranty and that always seems to be Walmart. 3 year free replacement...

UPDATE! My whooping noise wasn't what I thought it was. My A/C compressor locked up, so I ordered a new compressor, accumulator and orifice tube. Vacuumed the system, recharged and the occasional whooping noise is now totally gone! A/C is also quite a bit colder. I'm seeing 38 degrees from the...

Still illegal no matter how you look at it.

I personally can't stand the look of these conversions, not to mention that green ring is illegal. By painting the reflector surface black, the high beams are now useless for producing usable light. If you like them, that's all that matters.

Order a sniffer on Ebay. They can be had for $22 with free shipping and work great for the home mechanic. My compressor just failed after 116k. Bought a new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, expansion valve, pag oil and all o-rings for $158 on Ebay from Pit Stop Auto. Couldn't believe the...

Good luck, it's a very common issue and even when everything is functioning 100% correctly the idle still is rougher then it should be. Mine isn't very bad, however I don't think it should have any noticeable miss/vibration at idle and it does. After much research and going through everything...

I would be absolutely furious! Make him replace it with a new or used OEM part. No welding! Sounds like this guy is a total hack.

I would just do a pan drop and fluid/filter change. If you have high miles or the fluid is burnt then you are opening a can of worms. Make sure to use Mercon V. Doing what you suggested doesn't get rid of any of the crap in the pan or filter.

Yes, they are external and they are in fact called timing chain tensioners per Ford.

Sounds like a "funny" to me. There is no way that 8 quarts of oil are inside of the engine and it's not draining out, even with probing the drain hole with a screwdriver. I have to call BS on this one.

Chances are that if your OEM springs weren't broken and oil wasn't leaking, then they were just fine. Despite what the shock manufacturers and auto parts stores tell you, they don't need to be replaced at 60,000 miles. I've seen 200,000 mile shocks that were fine and rode the same as new...

Well I'm glad that some of you agree with me. I have been reading about all of these steps over the years and just didn't understand why some were making it out to be so difficult. Even some of the Youtube videos, man these people just really make things hard for themselves.

I read posts about how you have to jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel/tire and use a two foot extension that barely fits, etc. On my 04 Explorer it literately took all of 30 minutes to replace both front and rear tensioners. I drained about 1 gallon of the coolant, 3 bolts to move the...

2004 4.0 liter. 111,000 miles. I spoke with a guy a few weeks ago who had an 2003 4.0 liter with 225,000 miles on it and still was going strong. My fingers are crossed!

For $3,800 bucks I'd say good buy to it. I've seen rebuilt units for around $1,000 with a core. I would find a wrecked Explorer, pull the trans and swap it out myself to keep the price low. We don't have any rust here though...

There's a lot of bad info in the thread. Although using carb cleaner may not be ideal to clean the TB, it will NOT cause any issues by "washing the grime into the cylinders" it will simply burn up in the cylinder during the combustion process. Also, moving the TB butterfly manually shouldn't...

I'm pretty sure that your explorer should have an aluminum stand alone transmission cooler from the factory. The 02-05 4.0 liter uses a stand alone unit that is a good sized, I would assume that the same years of the 4.6 would use the same?

Aftermarket parts are fine for some repairs but I would get OEM Ford parts when it comes to something that is either really hard to get at such as this repair. The extra money and piece of mind is worth it.

Thanks for the info. Good to know it's still a separate replaceable part. Since I posted about the turn signal it has been working since...

The factory low beams and high beams on my 04 are by far the best lights of any vehicle I've had. The driving/fog lights also work terrific. I thought about HID's but they just aren't needed. The entire highway is light up just as it is.

2004 here, Mine just recently started to stop flashing intermediately. Light will just stay lit up but sometimes won't flash. Haven't looked into but I'm assuming there isn't a flasher and it's probably located in the body control module???

Just use regular engine oil with a new filter, there's absolutely no need for any additive. Change the oil when it needs changed and you will be ahead of the game. Either conventional or synthetic oil is perfectly fine. Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota, etc.... don't recommend anything except the oil...