Search results

Well, the steaming pile of garbage has been put out to pasture. After another engine pull and timing set by my father, and 2 more years of use, the Transmission finally gave up the ghost. Its last 2 years were probably its hardest. Now my final ford sits out in the back 40 to rust to nothing...

Check the EGR valve. Lots of bad new parts out there. I got a defective one from rock auto.

You gotta strip it to a long block and put all the components from the original on the replacement.

Cam sprockets arent fixed to the cams so they could be damn near anywhere if the chain slipped, or if the sprockets came loose.

Redesign, Ha ha. Good one.

Dont do it.

Parents had a 91 explorer that ended up on its roof driving back from work when we were kids. Doesn't take a J turn, just some black ice. They also had a 97 blazer that ended up on its roof, but that was after a couple chugs stole it and used it as a crack house for an evening while joy riding.

Yes its a dealer only part. They run around 14 bucks and are torque to yield so they should be replaced. Not sure about the part number.

Pull the valve covers and have a look. if the rear one is pooched the engine is coming out. Its on the way out.

Oh christ, that was just the beginning.... Lol.

Rads are cheap. Drop in a new one if the tank is leaking.

Factory class 3 has towing package with shorter gears.

There is a quick connect in there.

There is a plastic tank on the left and right side of the metal rad. The seams give way and leak.

What size hitch hole in the back?

Check the valley. If its green it's probably the thermostat housing. If not the plastic tanks like to separate from the metal housing and leak. My guess is one of the two.

Strip it to a long block and swap everything over. Long block - Wikipedia

New rad by chance? TYC or Spectra? Their o-rings and fittings suck. i kept the ones off my original and swapped them. No more leaks.

Either way that engine needs to come out. According to the book that's a 15 hr job. Pitter patter :)

On the 07 sport trac there is about 6 inches of room between the condenser and the engine when you pull it with the fan off. Not sure about the explorer. I just tied the pump to the battery box and pulled the engine without issue.

I'm in the process of cutting the balance shaft on mine. The rear cassette survived 100K after replacment, the front, not so much. .

I got close to 100k out of my engine tech set. its sitting in the garage now, with the front end torn down waiting until I have some free time to put in my cloys set. With any luck it will be up and running by sunday.

Your not to far. SGI has pretty cheap mustang 4.0L, and they seem to be in better shape than the ones from the SUV's. I think there was one in Battleford SGI not to long ago. for a little over a grand, you could do a drop in.

Nope, But the eco boost likes to play the same trick the old chrysler intrepeds did and their internal water pump, much like the one chrysler was taken to court over likes to blow the seal and fill the crank case with water destroying the entire engine.

Mine did that, it was the main starter wire that was pinched by the water pump after I changed it. eneded up taking it all apart and soldering it back up. Works well now. You could try dunking the cable ends in baking soda and water for a bit as well, they could be corroded.

The shop bit off more than they could chew and now they are covering their tracks. I would never trust an inexperienced shop with this job. Probably is cheaper for a drop in anyways as the engine needs to come out either way, and all the specialty tools required that the shop will probably never...

Drivers side valve cover sticking right out of the back. pop off the hose and give it a 1/8 turn counter clockwise and pull it straight out the back.

Sounds familiar. What a dirty bugger to get off.

Its probably not the cam chain guides. Its probably the jackshaft to crank guides. No need to go after the rear one unless its rattling. You may want to check the front and rear hydraulic cam chain tensioner though. The cheap kits come with crappy tensioners that bind and dont put pressure on...

The springs under the timing cover are not hydraulic. They have nothing to do with oil pressure. If you have a constant rattle odds are they were the cheap ones and they have sprung.

Yep, unfortunately when they go, these thermostats stick closed. Had it happen when I was towing my trailer home for the season. You are better off to stop. If you keep going the overflow will start puking coolant back over the engine and you end up with a cracked head, or minimum a blown head...

I would pull the front cover and have a look. if you didn't use a quality product (oem, Cloyes, Melling) odds are the springs are all sitting in the oil pan.

I was going to say that rear guide sure rides a lot further forward than mine, but mine looks a lot more like that last picture.

Yep, what donalds said. Get her good and hot. Nice red glow.

That's what mine looked like when I changed it at 160k kms.

It's got me then on what happened. It would take a lot of force to destroy those cam caps. I had a bolt head busted off one on mine the first time I did it, but nothing to that extent.

I went through the fender skirt as well. Far more room down there then going from above. Mine is on the passenger side as well, which does free up a bunch of space.

Wow, All i can guess is the valves pushed hard enough to bust the caps. Cant say as I have ever seen anything like that before. Some real carnage.

Hit her with the heat. You will get about 30 seconds of turn time. then hit her again until she is off. Buggered my shoulder up pretty good trying to do it with pb blaster before I went to the torch and turn.

That's what mine looked like the first time I replaced it. Wait till you pull the timing cover if you want to see some damage.