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same WMS to WMS? cause we measured a chev D44 and a chev D60 and the 60 is wider...or is chev only like that? what is the gain in going to chromoly in a D44? cause I can get a front kingpin D60 for under 200 bucks...does chromo D44 = D60 strength? As for the D20...i just rebuilt it...its...

So I got a full width HP D44 in the truck right now...and i've now broken the second stub shaft...so right now i'm thinkin either go D60 or chromoly or kryo axles for the D44...but is it worth it to spend the money on axles or just go D60? whats the strength gain in chromoly or kryo? Also is...

well the motor is in now...painless harness all laid in...loomed (cut myself way to much)...got my 1" trick flow intake spacer...upper intake is on...rebuilt the D20 tcase and bought twin sticks for it...got my adapter from advanced for the D20 behind the C6...I went with the adapter for a ZF5...

Hey, I have searched this forum and others on 5.0L swap info for the rad hoses used. I always just get the upper rad hose number being Napa 7648, gates 20923,dayco 70295, and goodyear 60313. These are all interchangable. My question is what is a number for the lower rad hoses you guys have...

yeah see i don't know...haha...i was already measuring to put a fullsize f150 rad in the front...but that was just oo much mod...so i guess the question is would a 4.0 HD rad with good airflow cool it? or what do it need...?

well i was looking at flexalites catalogue today and saw that a mustang electric moves 3300 CFM but then when you got to a truck...it only does around 2500 CFM...which i know is different because its a different size rad and bigger grill and all that...but i'm putting a stroker in my truck and...

hey, i just put in my 5.0...well its a 332 stroker actually and i don't have enough room for a mechanical so i am only going to run an electric...but i only have 6.5" from the back of my winch to the shaft of my water pump...and i was hoping to use my 4.0 HD rad which is like 2.75"...so i need...

well the way it looks is that i'll hafta take the material where it hits right out...so there will be no material left in one spot...not half of the back of the knuckle...but still a piece...but i looked at it and that side of the knuckle isn't takin any of the force anyway really...so it...

james t...ya i'm sure the caliper would fit if the knuckle wasn't in the way...but i'm just wondering if i grind it won't it make it very weak? or will it be an issue? and yes i just have the knuckles because my buddy had them lying around and said they came off a d44...so i just snagged...

james T...i saw the diff they came off of and i know it had disc brakes...i can see how you would think it was drums from the pics on the site... thanks for the link by the way...good info...from reading it i think it is a F250 knuckle then that i got...hmm...that sucks...i wonder how much...

I got a free set of flat tops from a buddy and put the first side together and was putting the brake caliper back on when i noticed that it bottoms out on the knuckle before even coming close to fitting...i'm guessing the flat tops took a different caliper or something...? what calipers would...

or you could do what i did...used an F250 hanger and mount it right under the cab mount...if it lines up that is...i've seen many guys do this...works well...

no prob...they are 15x10 steelies...

got some pics with the new camera of the motor now that its complete and just waiting to finish up hacking apart the factory harness to lay in the painless one...

is it that hard to find early bronco diffs down there? i bought mine from a guy no more than 5kms from my place and he had 3 in his backyard...and my buddies brother had about 5 complete early bronco's he was trying to GIVE away and no one would take them...haha...if i would have had the space...

well it did the job...on the way up that is...on the way back down the wood broke and my front headlight collided with his...broke lights on both trucks...it was funny...cause we just went in the back 40 and grabbed another set...gotta work with what ya got...we had wood and a fullwidth...

the backspacing on the wheels are 3.75"...as for flares i think i'm gonna stay with what i got for now until i do something to them that i hafta redesign them...i'm gonna be cutting the outsides off my front bumper and change that pretty quick...

got more pictures uploaded to a page...more will come now that i got myself a new digital...heres the link for pics of everything... http://photobucket.com/albums/c332/hazardiz/ let me know if ya want more specific pics of anything...

ya it is mine...but this is about your truck...haha...so ya got any idea about what you wanna do?

that is quite the beast...ya the front shackle mounts look interesting...when i did mine i used F250 mounts...have a look at my page...maybe give ya an idea...ya i don't think the 38.5s are big enough for the amount of lift ya got...mine are the same size and i'm WAY lower...looks tough...

i like the truck...looks like a clean setup you got there...DO THE 5L SWAP...haha...also wanna see more pics of it and some in action when ya get it going...keep up the good work...

well first things first...search...look at what other people have done and do some reading...its amazing how many questions can be answered with this...but as for a straight axle swap in your truck as a daily driver...it always comes back to what you want to do with it...how much on road and how...

i'll hafta get a picture of the rig shackle pin...sorry on the delay on response...have been busy...i'll see what i can dig up...

ya i was super stoked when i got the magazine in the mail...I called Al vandervelt right away(magazine owner) and thanked him for putting me on the cover. I'm currently trying to setup a page with all my build pics so far that i can just post a link to. Started pulling apart the wiring in...

332 stoker w c6 w 38s on an ex...do i qualify? :D