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Blue/Black RTV I used the blue stuff (sensor safe) for the intake ports and along the valley where it would come into contact with oil I used the oil safe black stuff. Made sense...

Vacuum Test I had some vacuum leaks on mine. I rigged up a plastic hose and aerosol cap to pressurize my intake so I could spray soap bubbles (dish soap and water in a spray bottle) to find the leaks. I drilled a hole in the cap, fed a piece of plastic hose in the hole, then put a hose end from...

Sorry for waking a dead thread... found it on Google and didn't look. I'm a bit in the dark on the 4.0, mainly dealt with V8s... Granted $800 is a bit much but with some skill I think I could drill out a piece of 3/8" AL and do the same. Non-interference motor you mean? I haven't delved deep...

I thought they looked different too...

Looking again, the rocker misalignment can't be normal!! There is DEFINITELY something wrong there!! I wouldn't run it like that if it was mine! Do some more investigation, contact Sealed Power, send a pic and ask them WTF? Another point on ratio roller rockers is spring bind! I didn't know if...

Think I just figured it out, have to have a Pedestal Rail to mount them on...

Is there a chance that 1/2 the rockers are different and some are in the wrong locations? Weird... I'm looking into some ratio rockers... http://www.summitracing.com/search/make/ford/engine-size/4-0l-245/engine-family/ford-v6?keyword=roller%20rockers It says Pedestal mount and a 4.0 has a rail...

BTW, if you have a 70mm TB any MAF bigger than 70mm is pointless... Air in Air out! Also, if you're gonna get a bigger TB/MAF, Headders and exhaust, then you need to do something inside your motor! I'm planning on some high ratio rockers rather than a cam since they're easy to install and it'll...

I'd stay away from plastic!! The AL intake wont warp with heat and I had backfiring issues due to vacuum leaks and some other sensor issues I'm still running down. The backfiring blew holes in my plastic intake tube!! (I also had leaks in my diff cover, was gonna regasket till I found PLASTIC...

Better Idea Nuts slipped a little and was a pita, so I found a friction type lock nut (see image - http://www.mechanicsupport.com/image/obj833geo835white%20tranpg75p15.png) that was a size or two larger so it slipped over the stud and the reduced diameter cleared the fuel rail holes, ran a...

Posted this on another thread... If you don't have an E7 Torx, here's an idea I'm about to try. Run a couple of plenum nuts over the stud, tighten them together and use a 13mm socket to torque them! Should be fine for 11lbs/ft http://dazzlindave.com/E7myAss.jpg

Brainstorm!! Dunno why I didn't think of this the first time around!! I didn't have an E7 Torx socket, my Snap-on kit only goes down to E10! Thanks a lot... again... Ford!! I found a set of studs on eBay for $22 (already sold) and an E7 socket from Snap-on for another $4.80... Screw...

True Very true! I've been getting a forced education. ;) I used to hate the idea of EEC, but now I'm starting to gain more appreciation. With the added confidence I'm finding myself wanting to delve into tuning the thing with my laptop!:D I guess you can't just bolt stuff on anymore and...

Injector Replacement! Ah ha! There's the answer! Wasn't thinking of that. I guess it wouldn't matter if you used a straight stud and sandwiched them together on the same torquing sequence, however if you were to do an injector replacement you'd have to regasket the fuel rail to lower intake. As...

Why the shoulder? Why do the fuel rail and upper intake need to be torqued separately, especially the earlier aluminum bodied upper? I don't get it. I don't see why it should matter if you sandwich the fuel rail between the lower and upper with straight studs. I just had my heads reworked and...