4.0L-OHV Throttle Body / Intake Plenum Interchange - Need Quick Answer

[Carguy3J]

I have a '93 Ranger. My throttle has developed a nasty habit of sticking halfway open! No, cleaning it won't help. I've tried. I believe the return spring is worn, and/or the shaft bushings are bad.
My question is what other year throttle bodies will bolt right on? The BBK TB is listed for '89-'02. However, RockAuto lists different part#s for several year "breaks" within that range. For example:
#148002 is listed for '93-'94 ONLY Ranger, Explorer, Aerostar.
#148003 is listed for '95-'97 Ranger, Explorer, Aerostar
#148006 is listed for '98-2000 Ranger and Explorer

I thought that all the OHV TB's were the same? I am planning to pick up a used one off a '95 Ranger, in about 2hrs. Does anybody know if that will work, or what the differences are?

Also, it appears that the '95-2000 OHV has the plastic intake plenum. If I can score it cheap, off the '95 parts truck, would it just bolt right on my '93 lower intake/motor? I know the IAC valve is a different part#. The '93 IAC fits '90-'94 Ranger, as well as many other Fords, going back to '87. The '95 IAC fits '95-'01 Ranger, and other Ford applications. Comparing pictures on RockAuto, they appear to have slightly different connector shapes, and the later one has the little external "vent"/filter. If I was swapping the the whole plastic plenum over, will my '93 ECM play nice with the later IAC? (assuming I get the donor "pigtail"/connector) OR, can I use my '93 IAC in the later plastic plenum?


Finally, any reason why '95 valve covers would be any different or not fit my '93?

Like I said, I'm about to leave, to drive 45min, to buy these parts around 3pm, so if anybody could give me a quick answer, it would be appreciated. That said, if you see this later, and have some info, feel free to respond anyway, as I may buy the parts anyway, if the price is right.

Thanks in advance for any help/info.

 

[Jason94sport]

TB is the same. You may need to swap your TPS sensor from the old TB to the new one.

 

[Carguy3J]

TB is the same. You may need to swap your TPS sensor from the old TB to the new one.

OK thanks. I think I'd just buy a new TPS, rather than have to fight with (2) sets of those stupid lock-tited philips head screws.

Any info on the plenum/IAC?

 

[Anime]

The plenum swaps over fine, you could either use the TB/ IAC / TPS from the '95 or swap your stuff on there. The IAC is different but the base that attaches is the same.
Just make sure you connect the air temp sensor and everything else that plugs in.

You'll want to get new gaskets, the plastic manifold uses rubber rings between it and the fuel rail instead of the upper/lower gasket of the aluminum one.

Valve covers are the same.

 

[Carguy3J]

The plenum swaps over fine, you could either use the TB/ IAC / TPS from the '95 or swap your stuff on there. The IAC is different but the base that attaches is the same.
Just make sure you connect the air temp sensor and everything else that plugs in.

You'll want to get new gaskets, the plastic manifold uses rubber rings between it and the fuel rail instead of the upper/lower gasket of the aluminum one.

Valve covers are the same.

Ok, thanks for the response. Couple of clarifications though:
So, physically, I can use the '95 IAC, but will the '95 IAC work with my '93 ECM? In another words, are they electrically the same? IE, same voltage equals same IAC positions/motor steps,etc...? Is there any benefit/advantage to using the '95 IAC (Is it an "improved" designed in some way?)

On the plenum, if it uses o-rings, instead of gaskets, does this mean the fuel rail is different also? (different mounting surface to seal with the o-rings) Will I need to get the '95 fuel rail as well? Do I want it ayway? IE, better injectors or something?

My idea behind the plastic plenum is a cheap upgrade that will do 2 things: 1.) save a "little" bit of weight vs the stock cast aluminum piece, and 2.) the plastic will absorb less underhood heat, and therefor give me a cooler air charge. Obviously the benefits will be fairly small. Is there a reason why I don't want the later plastic plenum? Do they have any known problems? (For example,certain year GM 3800 plenums were known to have failures that resulted in engine fires)

Thanks again

 

[Anime]

I have no idea if it will work the same with the ECM, but the 91-94 IAC should fit on it exactly the same as the 95+ IAC, so you can use either or. The newer IACs had a plastic vent cap added to them, which wasn't really any sort of improvement, and is known as the cause of a whistling noise under the hood. I prefer using the non-vented 91-94 style and would use that. You could always try the 95+ design and see how it goes.

The fuel rail is the same, or close to it. You don't need a new one, the only difference is the upper gasket because the plastic plenum has slots in the bottom for the rubber rings instead of a flat surface like the aluminum one. You want to be sure you get nice new thick rings too, some cheapy aftermarket ones are small and will not seal correctly, they will just get pushed up into the plenum slot instead of making a seal.

The minor benefits are just what you think, slight decrease in weight, slight decrease in intake air temperature due to the plastic absorbing less heat. The disadvantage is strength. You will want to take it easy when torquing down the upper manifold bolts, they just need to be tight enough to seal the rubber gaskets. As I mentioned, you need to be sure you're using thick, quality gaskets, otherwise you won't get a good seal, and you will crack the manifold if you try to get a good seal with thin wimpy ones by tightening the maniold bolts to try and make up for it.

I don't know for sure that it's any sort of 'upgrade'. The switch to plastic parts is mostly for cost reasons. Its a heck of a lot cheaper to manufacture these things out of plastic than cast them out of aluminum. The aluminum is much more durable though, and will outlast the plastic. Plastic parts exposed to underhood heat eventually get brittle and crack. They will probably last the 100,000-200,000 mile life of the vehicle, or more with care, but the aluminum intake will certainly outlast it.

If you can get one cheap, sure, why not, try it out and see what you get. I wouldn't pay a lot for it though.

 

[Jason94sport]

I though the TB position of the 95+ manifold was at a different angle since the air intake is relocated on 95+?

 

[Carguy3J]

Just an update. I bought the throttle body from the '95 Ranger. I was going to go back for the plastic upper intake,as the owner didn't have time to remove it. I never heard back from him, and the craigslist ad is gone; so I assume he junked the truck.

I tried to install the TB as is, as I was in a bit of an emergency situation. The front end was out of car, and I ended up needing more parts to fix it. The only thing I gad was the Ranger, but there was no way I was going to try to drive it w/ the sticking throttle.

The '95 T/B has a different vacum port than the '93. I could have made it work, but it would have taken some vacum adapters I didn't have on hand. Also, the connecter on the TPS is different. Thanks to Fords brilliant idea of using locktited phillips screws on the TPS's, swapping them wasn't an option at the time.

So, I dug a little deeper in to what was wrong with my old one. The circular spring on the one of the "arms" was rusted an broken. It also seems that the pivot point was a little "sticky" from corrosion. These are all external parts I'm talking about, not the internal shaft. I ended up using the '95 TB for parts, and made the '93 work again. All is now well.

I was kinda hoping to use it as an excuse to buy a BBK TB, but the money just isn't there.

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

I'd stay away from plastic!! The AL intake wont warp with heat and I had backfiring issues due to vacuum leaks and some other sensor issues I'm still running down. The backfiring blew holes in my plastic intake tube!! (I also had leaks in my diff cover, was gonna regasket till I found PLASTIC! WTF??? I got a nice Spectre chrome piece, solid and looks nice too!!) I did 3 types of tests for vacuum leaks... shade tree old school with starter fluid (very dangerous!!) when you hit the leak the rps come up or engine miss smooths out, #2 was a smoke test I saw on youtube... put a cigar in a can with plastic hoses and pump smoke into one of the vacuum line hookups (couldn't see where the smoke was coming from in the breezy driveway... could smell it!) the #3 option was a brainstorm, remembered how we searched for leaks in substation transformers which are pressurized with nitrogen... spray bottle with dishsoap and water, hit the leak and it'll bubble up, no matter how small! I was shocked at how many leaks I had, but at least the 3rd time I had the damn intakes off the thing I'd sealed 'em up right! I redid my heads, pinched an injector o-ring 'cause I put em in dry and then did some research when it was pissing out fuel... doh!! Then I was dumb enough to listen to Fel Pro's instructions that "No additional sealant is necessary" Bullshit!!!! I put a nice 1/6" bead on both sides of the gaskets! Guess what? No leaks there!
As for TBs, if there are dirt marks on the butterfly then the o-rings are leaking (there were bubbles on both sides of mine!) I have an o-ring set and there was room for two on each side so I put two side by side, on both sides... no more bubbles there!
My bi-metalic sensor was leaking (the only smoke I found, coming out the MAF) I did away with the whole Heat Riser system, so what, my truck warms up in 4-5mi instead of 1-2mi? There was a post ong here or therangerstation.com where a guy had an issue with his malfunction dumping hot air off the exhaust into his airbox! Screw it! Useless system if you ask me.
As for the '95 intake tube, the TB is in the same place but the MAF is bigger and the airbox is relocated. I got a 95up tube on eBay for $20! Seen others there for $100+, just ordered a used 95up MAF to put on, think it'll bolt onto by existing airbox (hope so, just got a new Spectre air filter for $40)
Next is my dillemma, trying to find the perfect 70mm 4.6 TB that will be a direct bolt-on. I've looked at pics and the ones from Crown Vics pull backwards, Mark VIII Lincolns are 2 bbl and rectangular bolt pattern, others I've seen have a different attachment point where the throttle cable attaches... mine is ball and socket, don't really wanna modify it to fit, or pay $200+ for a new piece! Any ideas there?

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

BTW, if you have a 70mm TB any MAF bigger than 70mm is pointless... Air in Air out!
Also, if you're gonna get a bigger TB/MAF, Headders and exhaust, then you need to do something inside your motor!
I'm planning on some high ratio rockers rather than a cam since they're easy to install and it'll be more ECU friendly - http://www.summitracing.com/search/.../engine-family/ford-v6?keyword=roller rockers

Other things you can do is both ratio rockers And cam And bigger valves, but cam And ratio rockers will require cutting your pistons for valve clearance.

Okay... just noticed these are Pedestal Mount, but 4.0 has a rail mount system... how can these work on a 4.0?

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

Think I just figured it out, have to have a Pedestal Rail to mount them on?
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=rc&uact=3&dur=2066&page=1&start=0&ndsp=17

 

[jd4242]

BTW, if you have a 70mm TB any MAF bigger than 70mm is pointless... Air in Air out!
Also, if you're gonna get a bigger TB/MAF, Headders and exhaust, then you need to do something inside your motor!
I'm planning on some high ratio rockers rather than a cam since they're easy to install and it'll be more ECU friendly - http://www.summitracing.com/search/.../engine-family/ford-v6?keyword=roller rockers

Other things you can do is both ratio rockers And cam And bigger valves, but cam And ratio rockers will require cutting your pistons for valve clearance.

Okay... just noticed these are Pedestal Mount, but 4.0 has a rail mount system... how can these work on a 4.0?

Lol I think you have been ""dazzlin"" to much.you definitely need to do some research. .ill fill you in some.
.there is NO ""larger bolt on tb"" the bbk 66mm is the biggest bolt on..

no need for larger maf, its plenty big enough and a custom chip and tune would be needed $$

there is NO larger valves.SI makes a stainless steel one piece in stock size..you can have Manley make you a custom set, I paid think close to $600 for mine.also doesnt matter the size, you wont need to cut reliefs in the piston.even with 1.8 and the 422 cam installed, still wouldnt.its still wouldnt produce enough lift to hit the pistons and also the ohv is a non interference motor

As you have found they dont make roller rockers that bolt on..Tom makes the only protype set out right now.have not seen results. .$800 tho

Lastly I would start you own thread instead of posting in a 2 year old dead thread..

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

Sorry for waking a dead thread... found it on Google and didn't look.
I'm a bit in the dark on the 4.0, mainly dealt with V8s...
Granted $800 is a bit much but with some skill I think I could drill out a piece of 3/8" AL and do the same.
Non-interference motor you mean? I haven't delved deep enough into the guts of it, and I'm too old and tired to tear it apart... bolt on **** sounds much easier, but even then hittin a chunk of AL on a drillpress is far less work than pullin the motor...
Thanks for the input man!

 

[jd4242]

Sorry for waking a dead thread... found it on Google and didn't look.
I'm a bit in the dark on the 4.0, mainly dealt with V8s...
Granted $800 is a bit much but with some skill I think I could drill out a piece of 3/8" AL and do the same.
Non-interference motor you mean? I haven't delved deep enough into the guts of it, and I'm too old and tired to tear it apart... bolt on **** sounds much easier, but even then hittin a chunk of AL on a drillpress is far less work than pullin the motor...
Thanks for the input man!

Just suggesting you start your own thread,would probably get more responses than here..sorry my phone likes to correct some words and just make up others..its not about tearing it apart, all the info is on here ..obviously bolt on is easy but there is very little for the ohv..and there is more to it for the rockers or many companies and people,including me would have been producing them..