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Servo bore fix might be a cheaper solution if it's not too far gone. http://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/

I did the double wrap of the belt when I did my HB.

Since buying my 2004 4.0 in November I think I've worked on it nearly every weekend since. If you are looking for something worry free do not buy the 4.0. 4.6 is a must for this generation. But if I could do it again I'd probably get a 5.0 2nd Gen.

Do you have a better pic of the rear guide? Your pic #1 only really shows the tensioner side. We need to see the other side. There should be a C shaped piece of plastic cradling that stud in pic 1. You can barely see a tiny piece of the stud in your pic. See the 1st pic of POST #2...

PCM clearing did not help. I also tried a new TC shift motor which also did not help. It actually stalled on me for the first time ever during my ~60 mile test drive (not the first drive since PCM clearing, was the second after I did the re-learn). Happened during a right turn. As I...

I did not do a specific PCM clearing. TPS instructions did not note that was needed. I will try this today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM I did have the battery disconnected for awhile but I don't remember for how long. The TPS and CPS work spanned 2 days because I drained the...

2004 Explorer XLT 4.0 V6 4x4 Approx 136.5K Truck starts fine, idles fine, shifts fine in all gears, and drives just fine. Problem is randomly (and sometimes I can force it to happen) I get a wrench light sometimes with a Service Engine Soon light and sometimes without. 4x4 seems to work...

Well the simplest first step (and what I started with when I had to troubleshoot a similar issue) is to remove the serpentine belt and start the engine (do not run for longer than 1 min!). If the noise goes away with the belt off then it's related to the belt and anything that attaches to the...

How does it sound in the 2700-3200 RPM range? How many miles? Mine made a lot of racket starting around 2700 RPMs. Ended up being the balance shaft tensioner had failed. Cut the chain and removed it and it's been fine.

Nevermind. The holes for the puller on mine were rusty and crusty. I used the shorter bolts from the pulley kit and some WD40 and cleaned them out. Then the longer 8mm x 1.25 100mm long bolt work.

Are you stopped and in neutral when trying to hit 4 low?

I'm in the same boat. I have 3 small spots of rust on the rear fender lips. I'd like to grind them down, treat the rust and put something over to cover up my work. The only thing I could find is the Putco 97221 but if you pull it up on their site it says it's for trucks with the factory flares.