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Essentially yes. I sold my explorer anyways, so it's the next guy's issue.

So I can comfortably say do not get the trakmotive axles. I put less than 5K miles on mine and the boots ripped open from 99% freeway miles. I actually hadn't noticed they ripped open until I went through some mud and they seized up a little bit while I was coming back home. I went to trakmotive...

Ok for lack of a better term the extended travel CV axles suck. If anyone is still watching this thread do not buy them, I had less than 3K miles on mine and I crawled under the truck the other day to see both boots completely torn open. It's not worth the effort for me to warranty them, replace...

Thank you all for the help, I haven't gotten to look into it too much yet, but hopefully on my next couple days off I'll do some more looking. I think 410 is correct, everything else is communicating fine, even things on that same pin (RAP, ABS, and while I don't remember if I can see an airbag...

So after my 99 'sploder sat for a few months I got in one day to the lovely sight of a little mouse nest (made out of my registration paperwork) in the glove box. After a somewhat long drawn out battle with my new found small furry enemies they decided to move out. After that I found they got in...

I've tried dabs of lithium grease on the splines but not the clip itself.

Ok I hate to update such an old thread but I'm at an absolute loss, the snap ring/circlip that came with the driver CV axle doesn't fit inside the diff. I already tossed the old CV axle so I can't pull the clip off that one. Is there a way to just find the clip without going to the scrapyard and...

The left side shaft seal crapped out driving from Colorado to California. Went ahead and ordered new stub seal, bearing, and the trakmotive extended travel axles from rockauto. Here's hoping no permanent damage has been done to the diff.

Finally got around to replacing everything (had to try three different radiators and two different fan shrouds), everything seems to be working ok. We burped the system pretty thoroughly and we think we got all the air out, we put some water wetter in with the coolant and drove for about 30...

Ever since we put the new rear axle in the leaf springs have been fairly alright, it'll sag with weight in the back if you let it sit for too long but driving down the road it doesn't for some reason. I'm planning to order some EMU springs like dirt said, once I'm done throwing money at other...

Finally got around to testing more, the radiator seems to be causing all the issues, coolant is flowing freely inside the engine and hoses and nothing else is leaking (even the timing cover isn't leaking at just regular operating temp/pressure) so I'm gonna replace the radiator, hoses, and...

Not too sure, I haven't left the cap off when we start it. But I'm curious if it is a head issue did the radiator just happen to die at the same time or was the head issue just causing too much pressure for it to handle? I know these heads have a tendency to crack around where the rods go...

The reservoir was empty and we took a fair bit out of the radiator.

So radiator test was inconclusive, as soon as we started it up the pressure sent coolant into the test fluid

I haven't tested that yet, I'm gonna pick up the kit after work today.

This is a California truck so most of the rust is super shallow surface rust or it's just mud/dirt.

I just figured timing chain and maybe the camshaft sprocket

Can't say it matters much to me either way. I'm more of a person to just do it now even if it is working so I won't have to do it later. I grew up working on old Mercedes diesel engines, I'm assuming this isn't going to be harder than that, but I've been wrong before 😂

He didn't, he just said "heavy duty three row"

So I looked closely, the line of coolant I saw coming out of the water pump from the gasket wasn't the water pump, it was coming from the timing cover. I was honestly planning to replace the heads with some new cast kings heads, and also new timing parts while I have it all apart. I already...

Anybody have any ideas? Time to replace the radiator and water pump?

So I pressure tested the system at 25 PSI (it's kinda high I know), I found three leaks. I don't know what this one is, I checked all above and around and there isn't a trail and it wouldn't drip for me. This one started at the front of the block where the water pump meets at the right side...

I have to add this, I went to pick up the pressure tester and the guy behind the counter told me the 4.0 OHV V6 was one of the worst and most unreliable engines Ford ever made. He then claimed to work at a shop and later on in the conversation asked me if the triton V10 was a diesel. Last time I...

I may get some UV dye too and pressure test it, make it a bit easier to spot

There's one underneath the radiator but it looks like the radiator cap spat some out and it ran down and dripped, then there's one on the passenger side towards the firewall but I can't see an obvious trail

We did lift the end up as much as we could when we were burping it, it did have an air bubble in it for a while, but we managed to work it out. Maybe we'll flush the whole thing again

I mean is it really an issue? It's not overheating, never goes over about 1/3 on the temp gauge, and like I said the radiator stays full after it cools off. I just don't want to go tearing the thing apart for something that's a non-issue

We filled the reservoir to the fill line. It goes down and then leaks from random lines and fittings it never leaked from before. The reservoir then doesn't go back up once it cools down. The radiator throws a bunch of fluid up when I take the cap off (once it's completely cold). There's no air...

No not really

Usually about a day or two to cool off. It's fine when it's filled to the lid of the radiator.

So when we bought my 99 ex the guy said he put a 3 row all aluminum radiator in, it does great (never seen temp go above about halfway in the gauge), but if we fill the coolant reservoir it starts to leak. My guess is it builds up too much pressure as even after it cools down if I open the cap...

Yeah but like Turdle said, O'Reilly's are everywhere, with these you'd probably have to remove them and ship them back before they send you the new ones. As much as that'd suck I'd rather not replace them as much.

So I just looked at the trakmotive warranty, apparently they do have a lifetime warranty on all of their CV axles, while it would be more of a hassle to exchange them should something happen it is nice to know. I think I'm gonna go with the trakmotives since they're around the same price point...

Yeah they actually ride pretty even, this is the first time I've actually looked at them while they're on the ground.

Yeah that's the dilemma I'm running into. I'm also not sure if the angle is making them bind or if they're just old and beginning to go, I'll try to post a picture so y'all can guestimate since this is the first torsion lift I've ever done. I hate having to essentially disconnect the knuckle to...

So if anyone else has read my other threads just know that everything is good now, diffs are working perfectly and transfer case never has an issue shifting. So I've read a couple of threads about CV axles, looks like either precision or the trakmotive extended travel ones are what most people...

So no more leaking and everything is good. Only issue that remains is the vibration from a dead stop, it seems like it's less than before but it still kinda shakes the steering wheel around. I've checked the u joints and they don't have any play in them at all, neither does the flange or yoke or...

The new bushing is in the bracket and the bracket is attached, everything looks good and seems to be running ok. As for the rear pinion leaking, I checked the tube and even blew air through it and it didn't seem clogged up, I cleaned the end and ran it up at less of an angle to that piece of...

I'm not going to do the pinion seal myself, the torque on that thing scares me to death in all honesty. There is a lot of dirt and grime on the vent hose near the cap though so I'm pretty sure that's what it is.

So just up high and make sure it isn't kinked. I'm so done with this car I barely even want to look at it anymore. Maybe if I could use a lift I'd be more enthusiastic about doing all this work 😅