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Has anyone ever tried something like this for the rears: http://home.kc.rr.com/newshore/Cars/Info/MilElim.html

What could cause my ex to stumble right off the line fron about 10 -20 mph? It feels like I hit a patch of gravel for about 20 feet. I can feel the shake in the steering wheel. After about 20 mph it smooths out and runs fine. The idle is also fine. I've replaced the plugs and wires (autolite...

I don't know if this would apply here or not but I'll throw it out there anyway... In my '00 Crown Vic I had the exact same noise under the same circumstances. It turned out to be the steering stops were dry (which was nothing more than a pocket in the frame rail that part of the spindle hits...

It almost sounds like it could be the throw out bearing in the clutch. Question for the more experienced people here, can the timing chain rattle happen all at once, or does it gradually get louder and louder as more slop develops in the chain?

I just got back from the yard to check it out before I go get my springs. They only had 3 or 4 2nd gens out but he said there were several more that they haven't put out on the lot yet and they get new cars in every day. I saw 6 or 7 cars come in when I was there. I bet they had 15 1st gens...

The only question you asked that I've personally experienced is the rear wiper problem. I had to carefully bend the wiper arm a little at a time until I found the right pressure across the whole window. I'm still lacking about three inches on the passenger side where the wiper still doesn't...

Hey guys, I'm going to a new do-it-yourself junk yard this weekend to get a set of four door rear leaf springs to do the conversion on my sport. I have to bring all the tools with me that I might need to do the job. The cars are all supported by the front and rear bumpers/frame, so the wheels...

I'd also get the tires checked out.

I wonder if the trans mount could have been damaged by only having one bolt in it for a while. You said that the new bolt made it better, so it sounds like you're in the right area. How hard/expensive would it be for you to replace the mount?

Yes, it needs to be run in 1:1, or in your case third gear.

Have you only bled the new caliper? If so try bleeding at all four corners.

Cool. Thanks for the clarification. So, if I'm understanding you right, the flushes that the dealers do are backflushes, not flushing in the same direction as normal flow. That makes more sense now. :)

Oh, I forgot the second part of your question. The dealerships around here usually charge 1 hour of labor for diagnosis. Right now that's ranging from $70 -$80 an hour. It's worth trying to find it yourself if you can.

Before you take it in, start checking all the vacuum lines. It really sounds like one happened to pop off or break when you drove it last. Try to zone in on the hissing noise and look for holes, scrapes, open ports, etc. If you find what you think might be a hole or find an open connector...

Looks great! I was expecting to see a beat up POS. Good work! I like lifted Suburbans too.

^^x2^^ Vacuum leaks cause both a hissing sound, rough idling, surging, and too lean.

I'm not trying to sound argumentative here so please don't take offense, but what kind of particles are you expecting to see trapped in the filter? I'm not as familiar as you are with the Ford transmissions as I am with GM/Allison transmissions, but from all the testing I've done the only debris...

My Ford dealer said that they don't usually do pan drops, just flushes. This is what they did on mine and I've had no problems since. I would add that if you are using synthetic fluid I think it would be a little silly to change it every 30,000 miles. It should be fine for much longer than that...

Another option would be to pull the trans yourself and then take it somewhere to get rebuilt. That would knock off the first $700 that you mentioned. I'm not sure how hard they are to remove from the Explorers, but $700 sounds pretty high for a removal. Also, think about taking it to a smaller...

You could always remove the alternator and take it to Advance or AutoZone and they can test it for you for free.

I've been wanting to get a set of the factory ones (mine were already removed when I got it) and then have them coated with line-x or herculiner. If yours aren't rusted all the way through, you might be able to try that. It would have to be cheaper than a set of aftermarket bars.

I just replaced mine through Advance auto parts online (Parts America). The tensioner was $30 and a new Goodyear Gatorback belt was $23. Free shipping for purchases above $50!

Just curious, where do you guys with lights on your roof run the wires into the truck? Has anybody tried to mount lights on the factory roof rack crossbar?

Mercon V.

How many miles are on this fluid? Are you feeling any drivability issues? The odor is usually caused by the fluid getting overheated (or just old and needing replaced), the dark color is usually caused by friction material from the clutch packs (can also be normal on old fluid-the disks wear...