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So, I had the fuel pump replaced two years ago... would of been under warranty if I took it in when this issue starting happening... but what's happening now is the following: Hard Starts... When I turn the key on, I get a brief 450 and quick drop in the fuel pressure at the rail... it drops to...

So I think I'm going to replace the complete throttle body with a Techsmart... I've had a few situations where the truck just won't start such as this weekend. It got a P2104 and P2111 flag. I disconnect/reconnected both the stepper motor and TPS and the problem seems to have gone away (at...

Well, a bit of liquid down in cyl #5... pulled all 4 coils on the drivers side, cleaned the boots off, added some more grease on the bottom/springs, added some to the top of the boots (something I haven't done in the past, but should help the boots seal better and keep liquid out), and...

Fun... coil #5... also the one closest to the thermostat... it doesn't appear any fluid had leaked into there or any signs of anything... it's also probably one of the coils that have never been replaced. All of the coils seem "loose" though and can wiggle... I have a pack of 8 from autozone so...

Well, didn't overheat but started idling and then driving like crap after I drove it home (15 minutes)... Bad enough to throw the engine light... Time to read the codes later and see what's next... They didn't mention it doing this while they had it though... It rained today, so perhaps...

Yeah, like I said... was it actually bad? eh... probably not. Does it hurt to be replaced at 165k miles? Not really...

Well, they replaced the thermostat under warranty since they had replaced it before. This time they went with Napa's "premium" model, which appears to have the bypass hole https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/THM555090 Regarding the rad cap, I replaced it not that long ago... I think it was OEM, but...

Well, they drove it one last time and it overheated... doesn't overheat sitting at idle, but driving it, specifically with the AC on, gets it to kick up in temperature after a random amount of time.

Well, they couldn't reproduce it and get it to overheat like I did yesterday. I think I may just go ahead and replace the thermostat again myself and go from there. I'll use the siphon to pull some fluid out of the radiator, and use a funnel to purge the system, can do this on ramps. Should I...

Fluid looks good in the rad cap opening and quite full. I'm not sure what brand t-stat was added. Also, there was a good amount of time in between the work having been done and it starting to overheat, so feel like it isn't likely air. Now, could it be the thermostat restricting flow...

So just idling with AC on in driveway... It seems to be operating correctly... it's about 206 on OBD and I'm reading w/ IR 166 on the upper hose and 144 on the lower hose... But also not getting it to easily overheat. fan speed keeps getting adjusted between 450-500 rpm and 800rpm...

So my 07 4.6L 2wd is overheating... Has 165k miles on it. It seems to be worse after you let it heat up and then drive it a second time... the temp will climb, throwing the fan on, which cools it down, and process continues as the fan puts load on motor and heats it up more, etc... Isn't...

I just had a drive output seal replaced, but it was making this before that. They said the old fluid was super black but clean from metal fillings. I don't think I want to spend 800 to rebuild the difference for a slight noise, but will keep that in mind as a possible issue if it gets worse.

My slow leak was the crazy ass Y x 5 or whatever cable for the heater core. I wish I had read more on the forum and thought about just trying to fix it, but I had it replaced (part was expensive at like 200-300$ if I recall).

So... 2007 v8 2wd, 164k miles... Transmission is a reman with < 5k miles/3 months ago. Noise almost sounds like road noise but isn't. It's similar to the rumble strip sound that the light acceleration causes with the transmission (fly wheel/low fluid issues) but not quite the same. It's not...

Eh... I may just pay the ~ $160 in labor then.

anyone have a walk thru or video on this? trying to decide if I want to do it myself or take it in...

Well, that was overall very easy. I put the nuts on the bottom vs the top (like OEM), but I think most people do that to be able to see threads easier. The rear weren't quite as bad as the front were, but def. needed replaced. And my instructions were almost right, turn until middle section...

Well, stabalizer links are def. shot. The lower ball joints look like the rubber is starting to go out. I couldn't tell on the front. I didn't check the side bushings on the control arms. or the steering linkages. I plan to go ahead and replace both front and rear stab links today. I don't...

truck has ~156k miles on it with all stock suspension (including shocks all the way around).

So I have some noise, etc, in the front end and suspect something is starting to be worn out and need replaced. Can someone guide me through how to check all the pieces and figure out which I need to replace. It's an '07 V8 Explorer 2wd. I feel comfortable doing the work, just haven't dove much...

Well, place I took it says they won't replace it with a transmission I buy... and repair costs are 4500+ Says transmission is slipping and nothing can be done without dropping transmission.

Anyone have any ideas?

Unless it's been raining every day and getting wet/shorting out on cylinder 4, I'd have to go with Steve's advice and check the fuel injector. You could likely swap two of those and try again as well... be sure to follow proper procedures since they're pressurized lines.

So.... troubles continue... Had been driving fine since the 6th or so when I got it fixed until yesterday. Yesterday had a very bad misfire, due to water in cylinder 4. Cleaned it out, replaced COP/plug just in case (kept the old one as a spare) and it drove fine back home. Today while out...