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Well, I finally got the time to finish the truck, and not a pop, clunk, click... just needs a slight alignment. Thanks to everyone that helped me out and the resources on this site! Derek

So, everything is going back together well (although the u-joints gave me some crap) my question is about the camber bushing. Do I hammer the camber bushing down flush to the knuckle in the same postion it was? If so, the snap ring on the new upper ball joint will be higher than the camber...

Thanks you guys! I actually don't have to pull the RA, as whomever pulled the pumpkin last put the bolt upsidedown so the nut is at the bottm, and there is just enough clearance to push the bolt up past the upper part of the RA, and there is a 2mm notch in the RA that someone made... seems like...

Yep, that slip joint is pretty much welded together... So, besides the long bolt, will I be able to drop the pumpkin without having to remove anything? It looks like I can pull it towards the back of the truck onto a jack, and then lower it down enough to get inside and remove the c-clip. It...

Yes, I will def do that if I have to pull (or happen to break off and have to fish out) the c-clip. Finger's crossed that I can get the slip joint out. I'll soak it the next few days with PB Blaster, then weld the brackets so I can hammer that SOB!

Thanks man! Let's hope the c-clip can take the hammering!

If it comes to that, I will be sure to do it. Since I already have it so the RA bracket can come off easily, that will be a big help. Hopefully I can get the slip joint to come free and not have to. I'm thinking making it so I can hammer it out will do the trick. If not, then out goes the...

What I am thinking of doing, since it won't take long at all, is weld two flanges to the drive axle just past the slip joint (on the knuckle side at 3 o-clock and 6 o-clock of the sharft), and I can take two hammers and hit the shaft outward toward the knuckle. I can hang some hangers to catch...

So did you end up replacing the shaft, or did you just weld it? Not that I will go that route, just curious. Also, how did you try to pull the slip joint... just by pulling hard on the shaft, or by use of hammer? I was thinking about building a puller that would bolt around the shaft...

Also... you guys are awesome! I'm a Mustang guy, and this is my first 4x4 that I have worked on... hence the "4.6" in my profile name.

Okay, I will try to get the slip joints, and will soak it in PB blaster (as I have for every friggen bolt on this truck) and see if I can't get it to pull. If not, then I will head to harbor freight and pick up a spring compression tool so I can pull the RA. I am assuming it is the pass side...

Well, the pass side outer u-joint has about 1/4" of play, and I think one of the boots is off. I mean, it is the worst I have ever seen. The driver's side is all good, and I would really like to not have to mess with it... So after I get the spindle off, I just tug and pull on the shaft to...

So do you think I should try the get the slip joint first? If so, do you recommend a method to do so? Thanks for your help Mark!

Mark: I see what you are saying, but it really doesn't seem like the joints are going to be able to get through the hole after I remove the spindle. Seems like the u-joint is larger than the whole, but hopefully my eye is off. I'm glad you told me about the c-clip. Do I just need to remove...

In my haynes manual, it says to take the spindle off, but on mine, it seems that it is all one piece, like the spindle is fixed to the knuckle. Like the only way for me to pull the shaft and u-joints out is by removing the knuckle and pulling the axle outward. I look on the back side where the...

Yes, I am trying to pull the knuckle. That u-joint is fubar. I have the tie rod pulled, and the upper ball joint free. As you can see, I have the nut off the lower ball joint, but I can't get it to drop for the best of me. Does the lower ball joint bolt just drop? Thanks!

Here is the picture~

I have made the picture of the bolt as my profile picture... I wish I could just attach the darn thing!

So the u-joint on the pass side is very bad, and I suspect it to be the cause of the sound. I am taking off the support that holds the break and rotor, but am having issues with the bottom bolt. This is the bolt where the nut is right under the u-joints, and it looks like the bolt, along with...

Mark: I removed the bracket and replaced the rivets with grade 8 bolts.

I did both front and back sides of the hangers, but the sound seems to be worse than it was before I changed them. Where you able to get under the truck and move the arm by hand to hear the sound? I am thinking that perhaps the bearing was not set enough, and I plan to reset the bearing to...

So I have a 94 explorer, and changed the arm bushings (both sides) and changed to manual locking hubs. I know the 4x4 has not worked in some time and the u-joints are not in the best shape. The 4x4 does work now... When I go over any bump, the right side will have a pop/click noise. I know...

I see where I can get some manual hubs for $120, and that would be the cheapest car part I have bought in a long time! Just replaced the top part of my Mustang's 4.6 with performance parts. I also have to say the explorer 4.0 is not a hard engine to work on... good old pushrod!:D I will put...

No it didn't work!!! Everyone here is saying that is the reason why I have no 4WD. Thanks,

That is what I used. I used the wheel bearing greese I use on my boat trailer. Thanks,