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I realized that I didn’t need to drop the headliner, but rather just pull the sunroof. I did that and replaced the fabric on the shade, covering over the handle (basically deleting it). It’s not perfect, but good enough for me. I filled in the handle slot with craft paper just to even it out...

Gotcha, basically replacing the plastic with a custom expoxy fill. I had toyed with the idea of creating a custom wood inlay as well. Kind of looking for an easy way out that doesn’t involve dropping the headliner (again) to pull the shade, but that may be what it takes.

Necroposting here but... anyone have any ideas (other than replacing the whole shade with a '98 or later - which I might end up doing) or parts sources for the '97 sunroof shade handle? As you can see from the pic below, mine is in very bad shape and driving me nuts. I wasted an hour at the...

I generally agree with your overall approach here. I'm still not the biggest fan of the carb cleaner method (but it IS quick and cheap admittedly), partly because I don't like the idea of spraying that stuff all around the engine bay, and partly because it may point to a general area but not...

I see that line of thinking. Makes sense. That would seem to suggest a gross leak in the gaskets though, wouldn’t it? When combined with the observation that prior to the no-start the engine ran (both under load and at idle) quite well, then suddenly no-start, suggests to me a failure of a more...

That's a pretty interesting test to try some time. I was giving it some thought, and it seems to me that the combustion chamber is starved for air, since the throttle plate needs to be opened manually in order for the engine to run. I would think that a leaking upper/lower intake manifold gasket...

For my own learning: can you help explain why you believe the no-start condition is caused be upper/lower intake gaskets and not the IAC? Additionally, if there are diagnostic steps I can perform to validate one or the other, that would be helpful as well. For an update: I verified the IAC is...

The 97 has the return line. On that note I observed something I thought was quite strange when replacing the fuel pump assembly. The return line, on the bottom of the assembly inside the tank has a rubber cap that is secured with a metal band clamp, effectively plugging the return line inside...

After doing a little reading, I think I'm just going to replace the IAC, they aren't too expensive (~$70 for Delphi) and I'm betting that cleaning it will just be a temporary fix. One other I'll note for other readers is the spec for fuel pressure on the '97 is 30-45 psi with vaccum hose...

Haven't had a chance to touch it yet. Any pointers or thoughts on cleaning? Or is that just a stop-gap measure, and I should just replace?

Based on the way the no-start condition presented, that is the idle was rock solid before the condition, this leads to me to believe a mechanical failure of the IAC is most likely (rather than a gasket or hose). Does that make sense to y'all?

KeenKilo you nailed it! :bounce: With partial throttle applied it fired right up! Sometimes it's the simplest things that help. Many thanks! When letting off the throttle it dies again right away. Does this point to a failed IAC? Or perhaps power to IAC? That's the first thing that comes to mind.

Summary TL/DR: I'm having a hell of a time figuring this one out. I'm looking for advice from some of the more experienced folks out here that can help lead me in the right direction on the next diagnostic steps I should perform to get to the bottom of this. Below I've done my best to describe...

+1 on the lose upper t-30 torx bolts Easy fix, but I would have gone crazy trying to figure that out on my own. Love this forum!

Thanks for the input guys. Been a few months since I've had time to address this. I found an aftermarket rubber clad steel type gasket from global transmission parts (my trans is a 5r55e) for $25 shipped. They seem to be the only company making this style of gasket for the 5r55 series. Hopefully...

I have a pesky transmission pan leak that I'm having trouble solving. It's a very slow leak when sitting in driveway, on an incline, out the back of the pan gasket. Initially had a cork gasket in place, thinking that was a bad gasket, I replaced with felpro (black paper-like gasket). Still...

Let's revive this old thread... I have very similar symptoms. 4.0 SOHC w/ 200k on her. Rattle only presents when warm and idling in drive and w/ A/C on - so could be A/C pulley for sure. Rattle noise itself though seems to come from tensioner - replaced twice recently to be sure. I can press the...

Well I got it all put back together, and everything seems to be working well. On the very first startup I did get the O/D Off light flashing, which concerned me quite a bit. However, at the time I also had failing battery, so it's possible it was a phantom code. I have put a decent amount of...

Either you have a low fluid condition or you don't. Coolant doesn't just disappear

yep, sure do

Well that's a new form of yellow snow cone! :eek: you're going to have to get under the vehicle and trace the fluid leak trail. My money is on radiator, but could be water pump, or t-stat housing, or a hose. If you still cant find it go to o'riellys/autozone and borrow a radiator pressure test...

I rebuilt the 5r55e (first trans ever) last year. It lasted only 10k miles before failing again, and I am just wrapping up the second rebuild. Check out my extensive rebuild thread here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/5r55e-rebuild-diy-diary.428970/. The interesting stuff...

That's a good point. I'm not too sure if the spec listed in the ATSG manual takes the gasket thickness into account already. At any rate, I was on the low end of the scale, so the extra clearance from the gasket won't hurt this build. Thinking about the scoring a bit more on the old pump, it...

I finally got a chance to do some work again this weekend. I've got the trans pretty much buttoned up now. Here is a simple way to check the front-of-case endplay: You must disassemble the pump to check endplay in this fashion (there are some other ways with special tools). The manual of...

I observed that the end plug (part #17) for the forward engagement bore has no o-rings and fits quite loosely in the bore. Can anyone confirm this is by design? It's the only end plug that fits like that.