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Been driving it for over 30 minutes now, and no overheating. :bounce: I'm still not completely convinced but things are looking good. The torque I was talking about was for the one big nut holding the fan/clutch to the water pump pulley, not the 4 small bolts. I used the 22 ft. lbs. that...

Ah, I found the calculator I was looking for... for anyone who wants it... http://rvproject.com/mechanic.html The clutch I bought was from AutoZone, they were the only ones around here that had it in stock. Its a TorqFlo, which corresponds to the Hayden 2794. At any rate, it was $64.99...

Alright, I've got the new clutch almost done and I'm stuck on some math. To get the fan back on I have to use an open wrench. To torque it correctly, obviously, this wrench becomes an extension. Book says 34-46 ft. lbs. I was going to go with 40. The wrench is 12" long and the torque wrench...

I've always used ceramics and they've always worn normally for me. I do haul a trailer w/quads on occasion, but not every day.

I used top of the line Duralast Gold ceramics. Supposed to be the best. I haven't noticed any loss of braking power, even under downhill braking. Go figure, huh?

I don't see any wear on the tires. The calipers are solidly in place. I used the right grease, Durablend, specifically for disc brake wheel bearings. I replaced the seals on the rotors... greased them well... I also replaced the guide pins on the calipers since I was getting very uneven wear...

Thanks everyone, I'll change the fan clutch tomorrow and let you know if that does the trick. Could be awhile till I know since the problem is so infrequent.

Alright, as if the overheating wasn't enough, now there's something else. About 3 weeks ago, I replaced the front brakes on my '01 Explorer 2wd. The rotors were warped so I replaced them, too, as well as did my first regreasing of the bearings. Everything went very smoothly, I've done many...

Texan, it only runs hot puttering around town, not on the highway at all. The a/c doesn't shut off, however, it doesn't run as cold as it should at idle. Is there any way to test the coolant temp sensor, or should I just replace it as a process of elimination. If so, where's it located...

Holy cow, and with that you are now in a dead heat. Good luck!

I used to go for black out on all my tires, until I got the BF Goodrich long trail TA's, they are one directional, I had no choice but white out. They've grown on me and look great, I think. I voted black out since all the pics I've seen of your much more *****en trucks look better black out.

wyochimneysweep, do you mean "condenser?" I'm not sure what you mean by "consedor"...

Ok, well now I'm really confused on this fan issue. Everything I've read, including the Haynes manual states that the fan should turn freely when cold. When the car is turned off at normal op. temp. the fan should be stiffer, no more than one revolution with a hard push. Currently, the fan is...

Well, at least they're cheap! I may get another one, just in case....

Thanks Don and Scucci, Yes, the mileage is original, mostly highway. I bought it 6 years ago at 40k miles. I've maintained it fairly well, and its only recently (since paying the damn thing off) that its started to show its use. The fan is not making a full revolution, hot or cold. With a...

Its got the 4.0L SOHC V6. That's what I think too, hinky. I've read many posts where the idle increases as a result of overheating, but in mine, the idle increase preceeds the rise in temp.

Hey there, I'm new here and have had some overheating/high idle problems with my 2001 V6 explorer. Have been reading past threads on here for hours... Problem is very intermittent. Will run perfect for awhile, then, maybe after 30-40 minutes of stop and go city driving the idle will come up...