Motor Mount PDF's Needed

I just had a low mileage used motor put in my 02. Engine runs and is like brand new, but I have a very strong vibration through my gas pedal at 2k rpm and up. It is most noticeable when driving, but is still detectable in N and P. Only felt through gas pedal, and specifically as a harmonic distortion when going from coast to accelerate and accelerate to coast.
My u-joints are in very good condition.

Anyway, hopefully someone could help me out with pdf's of the motor mounts and trans mount and how to replace them. Thanks!

I need the same thing to replace the motor mounts on my '99.

In studying the situation, the upper nuts are easily accessed by removing the mud/rain guard flaps from the fenderwells. But I still gotta figure out how to get at the lower nuts since the front differential (and mounting bracket) is in the way to access the lower nut on the driver's side and the inner CV joint blocks access to the passenger side.

The engine has to be lifted and supported, but I don't see any places to grab it from above so careful positioning of wood blocks to distribute the weight against the oilpan from underneath on a floorjack will have to do.

Here is the motor mount info. As for the trans, is it AT or MT?

Thanks, ..OZ, it has auto trans. I'm replacing both sides out of general principle anyway.

The images are kinda hard to see what they are referring to but the instructions are basically what I figured was needed. I'm hoping they didn't change too much from '99 to '02 in their design. My Chilton and Haynes books don't tell me anything specific. Changing motor mounts is not new to me, but doing it on this vehicle is and I'm discovering lots of stuff in the way.

I went out to my garage and looked again, I'm not seeing (yet) how removing the swaybar bracket by the instructions would help gain access. It appears that I have to let the front differential sag a bit (if possible) under the brackets for access to the nut above it on the D-side, and remove the CV axle on the P-side to access the nut.
That part does not make sense that it would potentially need re-alignment from this part of the procedure just to get at that mount.

Have you done this procedure before?
Has anyone here?

How did you figure it was the motif mount. I gave similar problem and can't source it but mounts look good

tonydp said:

How did you figure it was the motif mount. I gave similar problem and can't source it but mounts look good

Click to expand...

My son's car; he noticed the chirp sound. At first by listening by the side of the front tire, I was thinking it was the transmission making the chirping noise when shifting from R-to-N, N-to-D, and back the other way. He said that he also occasionally noticed it when pulling out into traffic under harder acceleration.

On a dry day during an oil change, I fixed a transmission hard line bracket under the radiator that was loose hoping that was it, and it seemed to be quiet for a day or so... until it rained.

Further puzzled, I had my son take it to a local A-1 transmission shop for their free test drive/diagnosis, to get confirmation of my suspicion and an estimate. After the test drive, the mechanic there had another tech rev the engine in gear (with brakes locked) and noticed excessive engine rocking movement under torque (while on the car-hoist) and determined it was the motor mount. I'm a little humbled in that diagnosis, but there was no way to tell in the limited time I had to address it by myself with the first thoughts of being transmission noise.

This does make sense if the rubber is cracked and chirps when moving, especially when wet. You wont see it when the engine is just resting on it and apparently ours makes noise only when it's wet from the rain.

Normally one would might hear a thumping noise from the exhaust or something bouncing underneath to indicate it's the motor mount allowing the engine to rotate excessively. Most commonly, from what other vehicles I've done this job on before, I found that the rubber will separate from the metal rather than tearing itself so no indication may be visible on the sides of the rubber block.

The only way to determine this by one person is to get under there and lift the engine with a small floor jack and look for movement and gaps in the rubber. Careful to distribute the weight with pieces of wood as not to collapse the oil pan. If you have an assistant, have him slightly rev the engine in gear and look for movement.

***
Since I was not able to readily find a detailed description of the process for this job, I will be creating and posting a full process description of what I needed to do for this job so hopefully others may feel more confident in being able to do this themselves instead of paying someone else to do it for them.

Hmmm... what the...!!!
After lowering the front differential, removing the motormount nuts from the driver's side, carefully positioning the floor jack under the engine and lifting about an inch or so...

Well instead of the engine tilting over as expected when the loosened side rises, it balanced. I reached in from above and am able to make the engine wobble side to side.

So I check the passenger side motor mount to see if it was separated. I maneuver around underneath to get the right angle of view and discovered that some "mechanic" beforehand had neglected to include or replace the mount-to-block bolts on the support plate/bracket that attatches to the engine. The passenger side is easier to reach so I opted to replace the driver's side first. Perhaps if I had chose to loosen & replace the easier one first, I might have discovered the missing bolts earlier.

So this indicates to me that the previous owner may have already replaced them, but those bolts never got put back in...or, perhaps since the tech at A-1 Trans said he thought the tranny had probably been rebuilt, maybe it happened then.

And no way to find out because my son had just bought this vehicle "as-is" a few months ago from a used car dealer, and here I am. Of course when I discover the missing bolts, it's too late to call the local dealership for replacements or to find out the right size. And I don't want to take one of the others out, so it's "hurry up & wait" 'till tomorrow.

The good news is I discovered it was not necessary as the pdf file (link) above indicates, to remove the swaybar. Once the differential unit was lowered and resting on the torsion bars, I had to 'scooch' it over a bit to the passenger side with a prybar enough to allow the socket & extension to reach up to the driver's side lower mount nut and found best access for a straighter turn on the ratchet was from the fenderwell, just in front of the cv axle.

I'll be posting my results after replacing the missing bolts and hopefully that was the source of the chirp sound.

**UPDATE.... turned out the bolts weren't missing, they were broken off and the block was bouncing on/off the motor mount support plate!!!

Procedure to replace motor mounts on '99 Mountaineer

Okay, as promised... here is the procedure I came up with for replacing motor mounts on my son's 1999 Mountaineer, AWD, 5.0, A/T. I hope this helps anyone else who is deciding whether or not to take on this job.

Here's what I did...

Disconnect battery. Slightly loosen lug nuts on both front wheels. Remove fan shroud bolts, let hang on fan (remove if desired). Raise and support vehicle on jackstands, remove front wheels. Remove mud/rain guard flaps from fenderwells. Remove lower radiator spashguard, for better access.

Loosen differential support bolts (2 driver’s side and 1 passenger side) and support differential with floorjack and pieces of wood to balance, or chain to transjack if applicable. Remove support bolts and lower differential until CV’s are resting on torsion bars.

*For A/T, Std trans may differ – Remove bracket nuts on mount-to-block studs holding wire loom bracket and A/T hard-lines bracket from passenger side block near motor mount. Push brackets aside.

Position floorjack or hoist to support engine: *I used a couple small 2x4 scraps and 2 other smaller pieces of wood against the oil pan to evenly support it with floorjack.

Passenger Side –
Remove spark plug wire from spark plug over motor mount. Support engine weight with floorjack and remove mount-to-block studs. Remove the two upper motor mount nuts, access from fenderwell. Remove motor mount support plate. Remove lower motor mount nut, access from above CV axle. Raise engine a little more if needed to remove motor mount from frame.
Place new motor mount in position on frame, replace lower nut and tighten until seated. Place motor mount support plate in position and loosely replace upper motor mount nuts. Align support plate with holes in block and replace mount-to-block studs through plate into block and torque to specs. Lower engine fully, and tighten both lower and upper motor mount nuts to specs. Replace A/T hard-lines and wiring brackets on studs. Replace Spark plug wire.

Driver’s side –
Similar procedure as the Passenger Side. Upper motor mount nuts may be accessed from fenderwell, but I found best access to be from above next to exhaust manifold. A smaller diameter 3/8 drive socket, universal joint (wobbly), and 20” extension fit best. I also had to disconnect the steering column near the firewall and remove the spark plug on this side for access. I had to pry differential over to passenger side about a half-inch to better access lower motor mount nut with socket.

Reposition floorjack under differential and lift into place. Replace differential support bolts and torque to specs. Replace mud/rain spashguards in fenderwells. Replace lower radiator splashguard. Replace wheels and lugnuts, lower vehicle and torque lugnuts to specs. Replace fan shroud. Reconnect battery.


**In my case, the broken mount-to-block studs also had to be removed from the trans lines and wiring brackets with a slim face open-end wrench to fit between the bracket nut and the forged nut on the stud. I also had to remove the remaining two broken peices of the passenger side mount-to-block studs from the block during this process by drilling the broken pieces and removing them from the boss with an extractor.
None of this was any fun, but it was possible. Extracting the broken pieces from the block required these tools; drill bits, extractor set, center punch attached in drive end of 14" 3/8 drive extension to reach, 16" drill extension, and a smaller air drill for better access.

These are what tools I used in various combinations for the motor mounts; 3/8 drive metric sockets, 3/8 drive ratchet, 3/8 drive extensions, 3/8 drive universal joint, 1/2 drive metric sockets, 1/2 drive ratchet, 1/2 drive universal joint, 1/2 drive extensions, 1/2 drive breaker bar, 1/2-to-3/8 drive reducer, metric wrenches, floorjack, jackstands (4 is best), shoplight, small flashlight, prybar(s), 1/2 drive torque wrench.