00 Merc Mounty v8 not starting

[JimMadsen]

So wife called me at work and said the mounty won't start after a doctors appointment. This morning I started her car up since I saw she left the xm radio on (again) while we were away for the weekend. Thing fired right up. She had made a few stops prior the appointment without issue. Nothing was left on and now nothing.

A helpful gentleman gave her a jump while she was waiting for roadside assistance. He had to give his car some gas but she got it started and drove it straight home. She went out an hour later and it started up fine.

I get home from work and give it a shot and it is dead. Volt meter at dash is 12.3volts. Multimeter at battery is 12.16volts. Hook up my trikle charger for an hour and come back to battery at 12.64volts. Still not starting.

I note that the lights all come on fine and I get no dead battery wrr wrr wrr sounds. The volts do drop to 11 when attempting to start. I have the door closed to keep the lights off and save as much juice for the starting. I try it with the door open and hear a click when I turn key to start.

First things first, take the battery to autozone and have them test it (battery made 10/12, came from WallyWorld) and it tested out good. Guy at AZ suggested: Ignition switch, starter, starter solenoid. He shows me in a haynes the solenoid is next to the fuse box and battery and is only 20 bucks so might as well start cheap. Eh it ain't there. Stupid haynes. Now I know why I do not buy you. It is part of the starter. Hook my car up to hers to jump it so I can at least get it up on ramps instead of having to use jack stands. I get 13.9volts at the dash for 2 minutes and still no start.

The plan: Remove starter and bring to AZ to have it tested. Since a new one has a solenoid come with it, I can exchange the one I have. Either way whichever part is bad, I gotta remove the starter. If the starter tests fine and I replace the solenoid and still have issues, I will look at other problems.

So am I going down the right path? Can someone post some pictures or even a nice paint by numbers kinda tutorial? I am actually gonna do this backwards and do a forum search after I post this. I am just difficult that way.

I can do most repairs not needing special tools as long as someone says do this and this is where it is.

Thanks in advance, this forum has been and still is a life saver.

 

[Dave 1955]

on my old 95 there is a push on terminal that is on the starter. At times i would wiggle that thing and the car would start..bish to get to!
Anyways gave the car to my stepson and he spent a few hours changing the starter..loss some skin and blood doing it though..I knew it was going to be a pain!

 

[JimMadsen]

Found this from 200StreetRod


1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start?
No: Go to next numbered step

2. Is the voltage across the battery terminals 12.6 volts or more?
Yes: Go to next numbered step

3. Are the battery connections (posts and cable terminals) clean and tight?
Yes: Go to next numbered step

4. Is the battery negative cable in good condition and grounded properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step At least I assume so since I get power for everything else

5. Is the battery positive cable in good condition?
Yes: Go to next numbered step At least I assume so since I get power for everything else

6. Is the Ignition Switch/Starter Relay fuse #5 (50 amps) in the battery junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step

7. Is the Clutch Pedal Position Switch/Starter Relay Coil/Digital Transmission Range Sensor Switch fuse #24 (7.5 amps) in the central junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step

8. Is the clutch disengaged? ?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Disengage clutch

9. Is transmission selector in Park or Neutral?
Yes: Got to next numbered step

The below I have not gotten to and can use a hand with a how to

10. Swap Starter Motor Relay #6 in Battery Junction Box with Blower Motor Relay #9 .

11. Remove Starter Motor Relay #6 and insert voltmeter positive probe into socket where pin 85 of relay would normally go. Connect voltmeter negative probe to chassis ground. Is there battery voltage when ignition key is turned to Start?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace or adjust Clutch Pedal Position Switch or Digital Transmission Range Sensor

12. Remove voltmeter probe and insert Starter Motor Relay #6

13. Is the cable from battery positive terminal to starter motor in good condition and connected properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable or clean and tighten connections

14. Is the yellow/light blue wire connected properly to the starter solenoid?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Clean and tighten connector

15. Is the starter solenoid/motor properly grounded?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No. Ground properly

16. Remove starter solenoid/motor and test. Repair/replace as required

 

[jremington59]

You might want to take a good look at the connections at the battery and starter. Also be sure to carefully inspect the area where the cables connect to the battery terminals.

 

[JimMadsen]

I have already removed the battery and reinstalled for testing, terminals are very clean.

I will take a look at the starter when I crawl under there to get it off, probably on Sunday. Stinks not having the second car, but no time in the days right now. At least it is a part that is testable and not just a buy and replace with fingers crossed kind of part.

Thanks

 

[bobflood]

You might want to take a good look at the connections at the battery and starter. Also be sure to carefully inspect the area where the cables connect to the battery terminals.

+1 on this. As these cars age, the cables can corrode where the clamps connect to the wire, and even INSIDE the insulation on the wire. Cut/peel back the insulation for a couple of inches behind the clamps and see what you see. If all OK, you can wrap electrical tape around the wire to close the cut back up. Good luck.

 

[JimMadsen]

I will check the cables tomorrow night. I pulled the starter and took it to autozone. They say it works great. Put it back on and the same thing.

Event though the battery seems charged, I put it back on the trickle charger for a few hours and will check later to see if that helps.

Hey, at least, I ain't paying $125 for a new starter!

 

[Dave 1955]

I must be foolish with money because if i got that old one out I would have spent the coin for new. Cheers!

 

[JimMadsen]

Yeah..................................

That went through my head. But in reality, the hardest part was reaching the upper bolt while keeping blood going to my arm since I couldn't position myself properly since it is only on jack stands and not ramps! What I wouldn't give to get it running long enough to drive 3 feet! AGGHH! That and getting it out past the brake lines.

Will do some more troubleshooting tomorrow

 

[JimMadsen]

Its Alive!

Problem was the smaller wire connector. Did not ohm out. Cut it back 2 inches and wired back in an extension since there is no slack. That ohm'd fine, put it all back together and started right up. Should have checked that first but needed to figure out where to test the thing.

That checklist was a life saver.

Took it for a test drive to make sure it stayed running and to make sure I did not mess up the brake lines trying to move them out of the way to get the starter past.

 

[nk321810]

ramp cheat

Yeah..................................

That went through my head. But in reality, the hardest part was reaching the upper bolt while keeping blood going to my arm since I couldn't position myself properly since it is only on jack stands and not ramps! What I wouldn't give to get it running long enough to drive 3 feet! AGGHH! That and getting it out past the brake lines.

Will do some more troubleshooting tomorrow

Next time jack the truck up and put a ramp under the wheel, then pull the jack out...

My switch wire is definitely suspect...I had to splice it on because I opted for the 'post' starter instead of the 'spade' starter (two different styles of connecting the switch wire)..anyways, it saved me $20, but it looked corroded when I stripped it back to make the splice...long story short, i took the chance because i was freezing and now I'm about to go freeze again because the truck still just clicks when I try to start it. Wish me luck.

 

[JimMadsen]

Actually I did just that with the ramps. Had to add some wood blocks on top of the jack (worked with what I had) but it did work out.

Did you ohm the wire? That is how I knew mine was bad even though it looked good. Drop a lead through the engine spaces and tape it to the wire. Then go up to the relay and complete the circuit. This way you know if it is good or not. If you have a bad reading, take off the add on wire you used and check both the add on (make sure the connection to the connector is good) and check the newly exposed part of the wire.

Not sure if you ohm tested it but I wouldn't have known to check it so quickly without someone (the list) telling me.

Good luck and stay warm!

 

[nk321810]

Got it!

After buying a new starter, cashing in on my battery warranty, buying a new relay, and finally calling in reinforcements (my Dad); I discovered they sold me a bad starter. I'll spare you all the details, but the moral of the story: If you buy a re-man starter, have it tested at least FIVE times!