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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Me too. When i start my explorer it acts like it is going to die. If i give it gas and let it warm up it might idle. I have read that this might be attributed to the Idle control valve and the intake gaskets and o rings. Is it one or the other? And were is the idle control valve located. Also does anyone know how much the intake gaskets and o rings cost. Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Most likely the IAC. You can clean it, and run some good fuel cleaner through, or replace it. You can do it, no matter who you are. Its right on the top of the engine and holds on with 2 8mm type screws. Take it off and soak it in seafoam or replace it. Its under the plastic cover that says "SOHC"
Thanks for the info!I tried cleaning it. It didn't help. Took it to buy a new one.They make 3 different ones.Of course mine was the most expensive. Could I have used the other one if it matched up ?
I would say go with what they tell you. There is a reason the part numbers are different. Hopefully that helps. If it doesnt, you can always consider the idea of returning it and putting your old one on. Where did you buy it?
Do you use the same fuel regularly? (did we cover this once?) If this has been asked, ignore. But Chevron used regularly really can help... If you both already use it, and problems persist, obviously there's something else going on...
I use Shell gas all the time. Always ran fine. Then all of a sudden I start it in the morning and it starts chugging.After a minute or less it's fine.Guess I'll have to take it in.
Mine had a similar problem to this yesterday. My mechanic I watched clean the IAC, and he also cleaned the censor just after the air filter (held in by 2 screws). After that he disconnect battery for 5 minutes so the computer can relearn and make adjustments. Things seem to be better today.
I talked to the Ford dealer in town about this problem today... They say it's real common with Explorers. The weather freezes over, and the gasket around the idle air control valve starts to stick, and it won't stay loose to move and make a tight seal inside the IAC just from idling, like it can in warm weather. Also - the carbon that builds up on the inside of the IAC, gets eched into the metal and that's why it can't just be cleaned out a lot of times.
We decided to replace the gaskets/o-rings on the the upper and lower intake manifold, and the gasket on the idle air control valve. Hopefully this tightens everything back up and I don't have to replace the whole IAC. We'll see...
I had the same problem last year with my sportwhen it got cold. I changed the upper o-rings on the intake and it fixed it right up, no more bad idle at start up.
I have the same problem and I cleaned the IAC and it still does it so i will replace it but by chance could it be anything else? I have a remote starter and in the morning my neighbors hate me because when it stalls out my remote start restarts the truck and it revs really high and then boggs out. P.S the loud noise is from the flowmaster 40 series i have
Try cleaning the MAF meter before you go crazy replacing the intake gaskets. I am sure it needs those though, since nearly every explorer has that is a SOHC. Mine is a SOHC and I get a hellacious rattle groan when the vehicle is cold, in cold weather. I assume that is next on my list.
I just went to auto zone and got a new IAC Duralast brand and it cost $61 and when I opened the box it had the gasket and when I looked at the IAC it had no little nipple with the black cap like the old one and the guy told me it's the correct IAC everything is the same so I will install it tomarrow morning when I can really test it, it's gonna be 18 degrees and 2 to 4 inches of snow