02 Explorer rear driver side wheel bearing replacement

[Robert Watters]

Hi guys, i have a little wobble drivers side rear. Jacked it up and wheel has a little play.
Im just going to buy the Hub, Bearing, Backing Plate, Brake Shoes And Hardware from Rock Auto. But its says this:
Rear; EXC TRACTION CONTROL; FROM 03/04/02
or Rear; TRACTION CONTROL; KNUCKLE IS 17MM. NEED TO USE 523-007 17MM TOE LINK IF REPLACING OLDER VERSION OF KNUCKLE. How would i know if this fits mine.
02 Ex 4.0 motor XLS model. Thanks in advance.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Can you post the exact RockAuto link(s) that you are looking at?

It looks like you are replacing the entire knuckle, is that correct? (this is definitely the best option for doing it yourself)

Their are two sizes for the stud on the lateral arm ball joint and this is what the dimension (15mm/17mm) is referring to. If your original part is 15mm and you change to a wheel knuckle that is designed to receive a 17mm lateral arm ball joint then you will have to replace the arm as well as the knuckle so they match. It is not a bad idea to replace this anyway, they go less than $40 for a decent one.

It's a good idea to do a search on your VIN number to find your exact manufacturer date as it maters in some cases. I don't remember the name of the site where you do that so hopefully someone else will chime in with that. A Ford dealer can do that for you if you care to darken their door.

Is this 2WD or 4WD?

LMHmedchem

 

[Robert Watters]

Can you post the exact RockAuto link(s) that you are looking at?

It looks like you are replacing the entire knuckle, is that correct? (this is definitely the best option for doing it yourself)

Their are two sizes for the stud on the lateral arm ball joint and this is what the dimension (15mm/17mm) is referring to. If your original part is 15mm and you change to a wheel knuckle that is designed to receive a 17mm lateral arm ball joint then you will have to replace the arm as well as the knuckle so they match. It is not a bad idea to replace this anyway, they go less than $40 for a decent one.

It's a good idea to do a search on your VIN number to find your exact manufacturer date as it maters in some cases. I don't remember the name of the site where you do that so hopefully someone else will chime in with that. A Ford dealer can do that for you if you care to darken their door.

Is this 2WD or 4WD?

LMHmedchem

Thanks LM, sorry i was gone all day. its 4wd. Here's the part. Ok i get what you mean on the 17mm.
Traction control is mentioned also. not sure if i have that.

More Information for ULTRA-POWER 698013

Ill do a VIN search. thanks

 

[LMHmedchem]

Unless it just doesn't fit into your budget at all I would not buy an economy version of this kind of part.

I have used a few Ultra Power parts and they are OK, but that is the best I will say. I wouldn't use Ultra Power, Dorman, or SKP for anything important. There are always exceptions and if someone here says they have used a particular part and found it to be of good quality, than you can probably trust that. In some cases there isn't much choice when looking for parts for a 20 year old truck. Dorman seems to make almost everything so there are times when that is your only option.

I would get this one,

SKF BR935001LK Rear Left Knuckle Assembly ($165.79)

Regardless of the reputation of Ultra Power, SKP, etc, SKF is simply one of the best bearing manufacturers in the world. It would be difficult to find a better bearing anywhere. I think this is well worth the extra $25 or so. If it's not in the budget, then it's not in the budget, but you may find that the bearing from a budget part doesn't last very long.

Hopefully someone will post if they have used one of the other parts and had it last. I have seen some posts about WJB parts being pretty decent but I haven't used any myself. Moog suspension parts are also excellent but I don't see why their version should cost $50 more than the SKF part.

The SKF part doesn't say that it takes a 17mm ball joint stud, so it may be the 15mm version. This is something I would track down by visiting the SKF website or sending an email to RockAuto to confirm. You may want to measure that part on your truck. That way you will know what you need regardless of what the VIN report says.

LMHmedchem

 

[Robert Watters]

Unless it just doesn't fit into your budget at all I would not buy an economy version of this kind of part.

I have used a few Ultra Power parts and they are OK, but that is the best I will say. I wouldn't use Ultra Power, Dorman, or SKP for anything important. There are always exceptions and if someone here says they have used a particular part and found it to be of good quality, than you can probably trust that. In some cases there isn't much choice when looking for parts for a 20 year old truck. Dorman seems to make almost everything so there are times when that is your only option.

I would get this one,

SKF BR935001LK Rear Left Knuckle Assembly ($165.79)

Regardless of the reputation of Ultra Power, SKP, etc, SKF is simply one of the best bearing manufacturers in the world. It would be difficult to find a better bearing anywhere. I think this is well worth the extra $25 or so. If it's not in the budget, then it's not in the budget, but you may find that the bearing from a budget part doesn't last very long.

Hopefully someone will post if they have used one of the other parts and had it last. I have seen some posts about WJB parts being pretty decent but I haven't used any myself. Moog suspension parts are also excellent but I don't see why their version should cost $50 more than the SKF part.

The SKF part doesn't say that it takes a 17mm ball joint stud, so it may be the 15mm version. This is something I would track down by visiting the SKF website or sending an email to RockAuto to confirm. You may want to measure that part on your truck. That way you will know what you need regardless of what the VIN report says.

LMHmedchem

Thank you so much LM! I will get that one! CHEERS!

 

[icepickjazz]

I'm in the process replacing the rear passenger wheel bearing on my '04 Explorer. I am not done yet, so i can't speak the the quality of any of these products. I went with the SKF hub. While I didn't look at the economy hubs, the Ultra Power does seem interesting that it comes preloaded with the parking brake shoes. I struggle with getting the springs stretched on the parking brake shoes. Preloaded avoids the headache.

While you have everything apart, take a close look at the ball joint on the rear upper control arm, the ball joint on your trailing arm, and the cross axis ball joint on your lower rear control arm, and sway bar end links. All of those were original and shot on my '04 explorer and needed replaced.

 

[LMHmedchem]

Thank you so much LM! I will get that one! CHEERS!

The question remains as to whether or not you will be able to re-use the lateral arm. If you are not going to drive this while waiting on parts then you may want to take off the one you have to see if its the 15mm (manufactured up to 3/04/2002) or the 17mm (manufactured after 3/04/2002). If you take it off you can measure it with a caliper or take it to a hardware store.

At a minimum you will want to start spraying all of the nuts with PB blaster or similar. Spray them several times over a week if possible. It's also a good time to make sure that you have all of the right sockets. I don't actually start a job for real until I have confirmed that I can break all of the necessary bolts loose (without breaking them).

If you do need any ball joints, I think that the Moog problem solver line (greasable) is the best option if you can get it.

Check that the rear CV axle boots are not ripped or leaking grease. If they are, this is the time to do the fix.

LMHmedchem

 

[icepickjazz]

Check that the rear CV axle boots are not ripped or leaking grease. If they are, this is the time to do the fix.

LMHmedchem

Yes! Now is a good time to check everything while you have the knuckle off. While you are checking the CV axle boots, also check the rear differential axle seals for leaks. If they are leaking, consider replacing.

 

[Robert Watters]

Thanks all! Noted!

 

[Stynx]

If you are removing the knuckle, the CV axel should be easy to replace at that point, but IIRC it's recommended that you do them in pairs. I am getting a moan out of the rear of mine. When it goes if it's the hubs, that would be the time to do the struts and cv axels as well. And while it's apart, the bushings too. See how this goes?