'04 4.0L engine on '98 explorer

[dorin18]

I know that this subject has been covered in a previous thread, but since every situation is unique I rather start my own thread and ask questions then hijack somebody else's.
I got a '98 exp with a blown engine and I bought a newer engine for it ('04).
I will post my experience with swapping these engines and the issues that I will run into. Off course a lot of questions, too...
So far I am in the removal stage. Since the step-by-step removal process was already covered I will skip the details.

 

[dorin18]

I manage to take the engine out and now the two engines are sitting side by side in the garage ready for swapping the parts.
I would like to keep the new injectors since they have at least 80Kmiles less than the old ones. The question is: are the two types of injectors technically similar?
If yes, I need to keep the new plugs (I have to solder them on the old harness) since the old ones do not fit. Does it matter if I switch the polarity of the two wires?
And one last question:
The harmonic balancer from the newer engine has a cylindrical piece of rubber (inside) loose. Is it of any importance? In other words, should I swap balancer too or keep this one even if has that loose part? The rubber part is marked with an arrow in the picture below.
I almost forgot:
If I remove the head covers does it mean that I will screw up the camshaft sensor? (It is a 4.0L '98 SOHC engine)
Many thanks for your help, guys!

 

[Silver X]

The injectors should be usable by changing the pigtails. I don't know if the polarity matters. Try to match up whatever you can. There are also plug-in adapters available to use the ev6 type injectors with your ev1 harness (not exactly cheap though).

This place has various types of adapters: (just an example, never dealt with them, so shop around for some other places too)
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_CONNECT.asp

I would replace the balancer if it has loose rubber. Hard to tell from the pic though. Is the large rubber ring shifted, or is there something in the center?

The cam covers should just swap over directly without affecting anything else under them.

 

[lisfan]

it looks like somebody gave the same imfo i would of gave. i would definetly change out the harmonic balancer if it is coming apart. havent much experience in the injector switching department sorry. keep us posted.
i didnt pull my transmission but i yanked radiator and condesenor , i remove shafts so i could shift trans back slightly in my o4 model. it sucks getting the motor in and out.keep us posted.

 

[dorin18]

Thank you for your answers, guys.
This is a continuous learning for me
I realized that the injectors have a "plus" sign on their plug (inside or outside), so the polarity matters.
The balancer looks solid and the big rubber ring towards the outside of the pulley is ok. The rubber part I was talking about is inside the balancer and is not quite from rubber....
I tried to take it out with a screw driver, but it has at least one metal core so it will not get out.
I will post a better picture in the morning.
I would gladly change the balancer, but it seems that I need a sort of puller to get it out...I will have to find a way to remove without that tool if it must be changed.
Just to mention my luck (my own version of Armageddon - the movie):
When I was removing the thermostat housing from the new engine (I had to swap that too) I manage to break one of the long 6mm bolts. It seems that there was a small coolant leak and the bolt had seized inside the aluminum head and broke flush with the surface. Anyway, I tried to drill a 2mm hole in the bolt and after maybe a third of an inch...the drill bit broke inside the bolt.
I was that mad you could have stuck a knife in me at that point and there would have been no blood coming out.
I had to spend 5 hours knocking, drilling and sharpening bits for a 1/2 inch deep hole. I didn't have the strength to dig deeper.
I redid the thread (6mm) but I'm not 100% happy with it. The bolt is a little loose. I'm thinking of making a bigger hole and putting a thread repair spiral inside. At least it will be tight.
I'm sure I will run into some other problems so stay tuned for more...

 

[dorin18]

I just checked the price of a harmonic balancer at Autozone: $220 for a '04 engine. If the '98 one is not compatible I'll try to use the old '04 one.
I think this engine was sitting in the rain for some time because it has more rust than my old one. And it looks that this piece inside the ballancer came off because of the rust.
I'll try to find a way to somehow fasten that loose piece so it will not make noise when it spins.
I'm thinking of center it, put a thin-wall tube over the bolt (to be able to put the socket on the bolt) and then spray some foam inside (Great Stuff) though the two small holes so it will keep it tight.
I posted a picture with the two balancers side by side.
'98 on the left and '04 on the right

 

[IZwack]

Sweet sounds interesting - subscribing!

 

[lisfan]

in 04 they used two balancers. the 98 style was considered the early build and the second is the one on the right considered the the late build . i seen the late build failures. i switched mine with the early build with no problem . make sure you get a new crank bolt. they are torque to yeild and shouldnt be reused. i included a link from a previuos forum with some good imfo. dorman 594-111 makes a great cheap replacement balancer. they make the help brand . . on the injectors polarity does matter. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2114855&posted=1#post2114855 https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-...=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0 you can order from dorman web site or find them on ebay or your local parts store

 

[dorin18]

How do you stop the crankshaft from rotating when the engine is installed?
I just bought a Dorman balancer from internet ($35) but I plan to put the engine on the car tomorrow. The balancer will get here only towards the end of the week, so I'll have to install the balancer with the engine in.

 

[lisfan]

hi
sorry for the delay.
i f you havent installed motor yet its easy to pull off pully now and can install new in truck . but if its installed . i used a steering wheel puller and mettric bolts. i used a bar to grab at one of the "fins" on the balancer. and pry against water pump while lossening the bolt with breaker bar. here is a link ttp://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=116001
i used a steering wheel puller with the metric bollts . i loosened bolt then pressed off pulley slightly . i had to remove puller loosen bolt and then repull damper till it finally came off several times. be careful bnear the end so crank threads dont get damaged and use new crank bolt install was fairly easy , tap on lining up key way then pulling in and torquing bolt
i replaced my harmonic balancer with one from dorman 594-111 and motorcraft crank sensor dy1061. they cost me 61.87 and 17.94.to me the hardest part was getting the old crank bolt loose, you have to keep the engine from turning. some help from a friend while cracking the bolt loose will save some some sore knuckles and bruised pride. if you have access to air tools you can zip it loose.

 

[dorin18]

Thanks for replying
I already installed the balancer. I removed the old one when the engine was off and I install it by puting a piece of metal between the balancer (the missing tooth) and the water pump. Unfortunatelly I didn't install the new one I bought because of some difference between the new and the old one.
The two old balancers that I have are both having the same tooth missing. But the new one (Dorman) has the missing tooth one tooth to the left, and I am afraid it will cause some timing issues. Would it really be a problem?
Below are the pictures:

I tried to get a new bolt from the dealer, but they don't have it in stock (neither the crankshaft front seal). So I put some thread locker on the old bolt and torque it in place.
I noticed I have one loose steering line. The pressure line that gets out from the bottom of the pump... The pump was all dirty (full with steering fluid and dirt) and I guess this line is the main cause. Even with the nut tighten the metal line is still moving. I do not know how it is supposed to seal. Is there anything I can do to fix the old line?
I am almost ready to try to start it... I still need to install the radiator and put all the fluids back in (coolant, steering fl, and engine oil).

 

[dorin18]

Today was the big day. This morning the engine started at the first key.
It runs nice and has good power. However, the idle is not perfectly smooth.
I did some compression tests (only on the driver's side - for convenience) and I got 3 different readings:
1:150lbs/sq in
2:100
3:105
I know the engine sat for quite a while and the valves could be a little sticky, but these low readings on two close cylinders lead me to think that there might be something wrong with the head gasket.
I will drive it a few days and repeat the test, while keeping an eye open for coolant level, excessive vapors on the exhaust, and foam in the engine oil. If there will be no signs of a blown gasket I am thinking of trying some seafoam.
Anybody has any thoughts about the two balancers above? Will the new one work even if the keyway is machined one tooth to the right?

 

[kevinspann]

Im just wondering if the old balancers have shifted some with age/use, and that the new balancer is actually correct.

 

[lisfan]

i have both my old and new ones i saved from old motor . ill compare and let you know asap. one is at work

 

[dorin18]

Great. Thanks. I want to know if I should keep the new one or return it.
So far there is no sign of blown gasket. I will give it a few more days and recheck the compression. I do not know how the other Explorers are, but mine has a strange way of showing the oil pressure: when I start the engine the pressure gauge needle jumps to the middle of the scale and stays there as long as the engine is running (regardless of the rpm or temperature). There is no smooth movement, just a jump, like the pressure gauge is acting like an ON/OFF gauge... Maybe it will be safer to go with an aftermarket pressure gauge.

 

[kevinspann]

The oil pressure gauge does act like that. What did your '04 engine come out of?

 

[dorin18]

It is from an Explorer. Strange is that there is no variation in oil pressure from cold to hot. In regards to the balancer, there is no way it could shift. The keyway is machined into the whole piece.

 

[lisfan]

hi
i got the old failed pulley and compared them . i never noticed that difference before. im curious if it would affect timing slightly. i didnt check it with my scanner but i didnt notice the difference if there was. it ran great
i checked my oil guage, goes right up to the middle, cold or hot no difference either. you may try a new sender??????? or use the 98 style
motor craft part numbers below:

SW1311 Oil Pressure Switch --1998
w/LIGHT 1
SW2220 Oil Pressure Switch ---1998
w/GAUGE 1
SW6357 Oil Pressure Switch ---- this the one listed for 2004 too
FROM 8/17/98 1

im really happy to hear that you got the truck running. im glad to know that the 04 fiit too.
can you check the timing with your scanner. ill check mine during the week.
i have the dorman one as a spare from the junk motor. keep us posted phil

 

[dorin18]

So you also have the difference between dorman and stock balancers?
I was thinking of installing the oil pressure sender from the '04 engine, but it will require soldering the plug from the '04 harness. Maybe I'll try it with a temporary connection, just to see how it works...
And YES, the engine runs nice, with no codes. It just passed the emission test a couple of days ago.
Unfortunately I do not have a timing scanner
I managed to work without one even when I open up my '87 2.9L ranger engine (it had a chipped valve).

 

[lisfan]

i was just checking in to see how you are making out?