04 Explorer XLT 4.0 Various Questions (Brakes/Heating/Etc) | Ford Explorer Forums

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04 Explorer XLT 4.0 Various Questions (Brakes/Heating/Etc)

Mr_Fruffles

Active Member
Joined
November 15, 2016
Messages
77
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6
Location
Valparaiso
City, State
Denver, CO from Tinley Park, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2015 Ford Explorer XLT
Callsign
Mr_Fruffles
1st.
When I was coming up to a red light today I hit the brakes and heard a "thud" and then "click click click" from the front end. No lights or anything, just want to know if this is normal? The ABS light came on awhile back as soon as I started the car the one morning but it went off when I restarted it.

2nd.
How long should it take for my explorer to warm up enough to blow heat? It seems to be taking more than 10 minutes of actual driving for it to work correctly. Would installing a new thermostat be a good place to start? (Coolant level is good however I did flush it about 1500 miles ago before I drove to denver from chicago).

3rd.
My serpentine belt is squeaking off and on randomly and I was wondering how I could tell the difference between needing a new belt, new pulley, new tensioner or to be safe if I should just replace as much as I can.

4th.
My AC clutch keeps engaging then disengaging. Is this normal? I added refrigerant to the system which was a little low but I am right back where I started. I imagine it is a leak but its hard to believe since the A/C works great.


Info:
04 with 116k miles
One owner, new to me at about 113k miles.
New brake pads about 1.5k ago as well as new plug wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, upper ball joint/control arm/ all 4 tires, etc.
 



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1) I don't know.
2) Mine takes about 4 minutes and I live in Florida.
2b) If the gauge goes to half way, the thermostat is good. You might suspect the heater core is plugged up.
3) Use a piece of plastic or rubber tubing to listen to each part separately.
4) Yes. Ford designs these with the compressor more than capable of pumping the Freon. It's just waiting for the metering valve to catch up.
 






1) I don't know.
2) Mine takes about 4 minutes and I live in Florida.
2b) If the gauge goes to half way, the thermostat is good. You might suspect the heater core is plugged up.
3) Use a piece of plastic or rubber tubing to listen to each part separately.
4) Yes. Ford designs these with the compressor more than capable of pumping the Freon. It's just waiting for the metering valve to catch up.

thanks for the reply!
 






Sounds like you are low on rad fluid. Odds are its the fan clutch not the AC clutch kicking in. Check the thermostat housing, if its pissing on the belt it will make it squeak. Do you have matching tires all the way around? If not the abs will do that. Also check for a bad hub. The rings for the abs are on the hub so if the hub starts wiggling the abs will screw up.
 






Sounds like you are low on rad fluid. Odds are its the fan clutch not the AC clutch kicking in. Check the thermostat housing, if its pissing on the belt it will make it squeak. Do you have matching tires all the way around? If not the abs will do that. Also check for a bad hub. The rings for the abs are on the hub so if the hub starts wiggling the abs will screw up.

I checked the radiator fluid and its good, maybe I have an air bubble?
Its connected directly to the AC compressor so I would imagine its the ac clutch.
The thermostat housing was leaking a little bit after the dealer replaced the housing but stopped after I added K-Seal.
I have all brand new matching tires all the way around that I have had re-balanced twice in the last 6 weeks.
How do I check the HUB correctly and is changing a hub a big project? Would the hub have anything to do with feeling like I had a flat tire all of a sudden while making a turn at an intersect? (I was so convinced that I pulled over and checked)
In regards to the belt squeak, how much should the tensioner move while running? It looks like it has up to half an inch variance.


I greatly appreciate you taking the time to respond to all this.
thanks for the reply!


Is checking the heater core something I can do or do I need to go to a shop.
 






The thermostat housing was leaking a little bit after the dealer replaced the housing but stopped after I added K-Seal.
That makes me worry about the heater core being clogged up. Take the hoses loose and see if you can blow water through the heater core with a garden hose. I would think 1 or 2 gallons per minute is good because water carries a lot of heat.
In regards to the belt squeak, how much should the tensioner move while running? It looks like it has up to half an inch variance.
I have seen lots of tensioners that don't wiggle at all.
maybe I have an air bubble?
My 4L never complained a bit when I replaced the auntie-freeze.
Odds are its the fan clutch not the AC clutch kicking in.
I didn't know a fan clutch could kick in because mine has no electrical connection.
 






Any way I can testthe heater core without access to a hose?
 






Any way I can test the heater core without access to a hose?
What else do you have that can blow a gallon of water per minute at 15 PSI?
 






To check the hub lift the front end off the ground. Grab the top and bottom of the tire on the suspect side and see if you can move it. if there is any play it needs to be replaced. Not a big job, you just need to make sure that the nut on the CV shaft is torqued properly.
 






Here's a video how to flush your heater core. It's easy but yes, you need a hose.


You don't need clear hoses like in the video. I picked up a cheap "remnant" hose at Ace as well as the hose fittings. I cut 2 pieces of hose about 6' long each and attached hose fittings. Watch the video for more details. The inlet side is toward the passenger side.

Here's another video on testing your heater:
 






Looks like I have some work to do. Ill check back with my findings....thanks for taking the time to help me out
 






Only been able to check one thing so far but turns out I need new wheel bearings/hub assembly......

What brand should I get? I don't plan on owning the car for more than 3 years so I would prefer to not buy top of the line parts so I can save some money.

Should I replace all 4 at the same time? (I am ocd like that lol)

Also if I wanted to pay a shop to have it done, what price or how many labor hours would be accurate?
 






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