12 Volt Solutions Remote Start Kit?? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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12 Volt Solutions Remote Start Kit??

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the hood switch just short to ground, so you don't really need it, only to connect BCM connector C2280F pin 14 to ground?

The only penalty I can think of in doing that, is if someone were working on the vehicle, in the engine compartment when it remote started, though that risk could be avoided by disconnecting the battery before beginning work, as you're arguably supposed to do anyway if doing a job getting down into the engine's moving parts rather than something basic like changing the air filter, though I admit there have been times I didn't disconnect the battery... because vehicle didn't have remote start.

Anyway, probably better to install the hood switch Just In Case.
 



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Hello,
Sorry to dig this post from the grave.
I am in the same boat, I have a Ford Explorer 2018 Base , standard key.
I have bought 12voltsolutions kit, No Honk, and just discovered my car doesn't come with a hood switch

From where can I purchase the complete hood switch for a base model kit? And then how to connect to the BCM and do the pragamming, looking at this manual, my eyes are sppinning
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
I'm getting some conflicting info on the switch. Ford parts says it is compatible with 2011-2019 Explorers.
Other sites say it is not.

Peter
 






Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
I'm getting some conflicting info on the switch. Ford parts says it is compatible with 2011-2019 Explorers.
Other sites say it is not.

Peter

Hi Peter, thank you for the welcome.

Yes, that is confusing. What is even worse, it seems some BCM don't come with a place for pin14, from what I have been reading .

Now, what is really interesting, I have contacted MPC, and they said their kit comes with a jumper for cars without the hood switch
"Our Ford kits do come with a jumper to install in vehicles without a factory hood pin to allow the remote start to work."
 






^ I'd guess that jumper is similar to what i described in my prior post.

Does "some BCM don't come with a place for pin 14" mean there isn't a metal contact in the connector at the pin 14 position, or only that there is no wire for pin 14? I think I read that there may be no wire on vehicles without the hood switch, but that there were instructions to pull the pin contact to make use of it, crimp onto a wire you add from the hood switch installation, or a jumper as mentioned previously.
 






^ I'd guess that jumper is similar to what i described in my prior post.

Does "some BCM don't come with a place for pin 14" mean there isn't a metal contact in the connector at the pin 14 position, or only that there is no wire for pin 14? I think I read that there may be no wire on vehicles without the hood switch, but that there were instructions to pull the pin contact to make use of it, crimp onto a wire you add from the hood switch installation, or a jumper as mentioned previously.
I think you are right.
Fortin show this manual.
 






^ I'd guess that jumper is similar to what i described in my prior post.

Does "some BCM don't come with a place for pin 14" mean there isn't a metal contact in the connector at the pin 14 position, or only that there is no wire for pin 14? I think I read that there may be no wire on vehicles without the hood switch, but that there were instructions to pull the pin contact to make use of it, crimp onto a wire you add from the hood switch installation, or a jumper as mentioned previously.

So, taking your comment into account, I have contacted 12Volts and asked if I can simply ground Pin14 and not install any hood switch (see the attached photo) and their response (btw great support by JR from 12V so far) I do not support any grounding of any wires within the vehicle to bypass the hood ajar indication as it may cause more faults in the future I do apologize. .

Frankly, I don't see how it might cause any problem, the BCM will just keep reading a closed loop. But maybe someone more enlightened might advise differently.

image.png
 






It would be what I stated previously, the risk that someone could be working under the hood when the auto-start is triggered, which wouldn't be prevented by the hood switch if you don't have one because you've jumpered it out to fool it into thinking a non-existant hood switch is showing the hood is closed.

In other words, by design it's not supposed to allow remote-starting if the hood is open. If you jumper it, it will allow remote starting with the hood open.
 






So what would be a proper wiring material/spec to do this?
The cable size, the pin head type that goes to the BCM, procedure? And do you need to program the BCM for an ajar hood notification, or no need ?
 






Hello,
Sorry to dig this post from the grave.
I am in the same boat, I have a Ford Explorer 2018 Base , standard key.
I have bought 12voltsolutions kit, No Honk, and it doesn't have a good switch
Is having the hood switch necessary? IIts a single wire negative-ground switch used to trigger the horn "honk honk honk".

If there's no switch, there won't be any honk anyways........no?
 






Is having the hood switch necessary? IIts a single wire negative-ground switch used to trigger the horn "honk honk honk".

If there's no switch, there won't be any honk anyways........no?
I don't think the honk has to do anything with it. I got the No Honk Kit from 12Volt, and they still say the kit wont work unless the switch is installed.
From what I have been reading, if the BCM's reads any signal that the hood is open, the engine will not start.

Something to consider
1) So if you install the kit (Honk or non Honk) without the switch, what would happen?
2) If you ground Pin14, what long term effects it might have
 






There should be no relation between the hood switch and the "honk".
The hood switch is a 'Safety' device that prevents the remote start of the engine should the hood be open or if someone is working in that area.
My suggestion is if you're going to do it, do it right.

Peter
 






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