1993 ford explorer 4wd problem | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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1993 ford explorer 4wd problem

You don't need to take the shift motor off the car to fix the bump stop. Just remove the three screws holding the cover on and pull the gear out and you will see the bump stop that needs a new bushing.

This is the most valuable post I have read so far this week.

There is a great thread on rebuilding the shift motor and I am saying nothing to detract from it.

But, I did not see the assembly in my mind like this until you said it can be done this way. Now, yes, of course. The one thing is that you need to mark the cover so it goes back in the same place, rotation-wise.

I was planning on changing the transfer case fluid next week, so now I'll just check this out while I am waiting for it to drain. Beats the heck out of doing it in January snow.

A+ man, thanks!!! :thumbsup:
 



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ok so i took it apart and the bump stop was definatly shot...i replaced it and got it all back together...i now have a light for 4hi but not 4 lo and the grinding noise from the front of the car did not go away...my brother listened to it and said it was a wheel bearing but i know i just had all new bearing put on all the way arond the car...this is becoming more trouble than it is worth..iam open to suggestions
 






4 low, you know you have to be stopped and in neutral for that to work, right? In a manual trans, you have to have the clutch pressed.

Hang in there, I think you are close. Figure out which wheel it is and go through it. If you have had wheel bearings and a mechanic approved the hubs, then it might be a universal joint. How much more is this vehicle worth if 4x4 is working?
 






4 low, you know you have to be stopped and in neutral for that to work, right? In a manual trans, you have to have the clutch pressed.

Hang in there, I think you are close. Figure out which wheel it is and go through it. If you have had wheel bearings and a mechanic approved the hubs, then it might be a universal joint. How much more is this vehicle worth if 4x4 is working?


it is an automatic trans and even in neutral 4 lo's dash light doesnt come on.....also if the uv joint is bad would that cause a rubbing noise in the front of the vehicle
 






ok so far so good guys beleive it or not it was the locking hub nut had cracked and tore up the wheel bearings...all 4 wheel drive is good now with the bump stop trick thanks for the help and will let you know if there are any further developments after i replace the hub nut
 






Thanks for the instructions on the module

Thanks for the diagnosis steps and tip on locating and testing the module. I had the shift motor replaced in my '93 a few years ago and so when it stopped working I just went and replaced it again... no luck. I kinda gave up on it until I read this thread. After checking power and module, I went back and pulled out the switch in the dash - and found the connector came off the back.

Of all the dumb things....
- NE
 






Thanks for the diagnosis steps and tip on locating and testing the module. I had the shift motor replaced in my '93 a few years ago and so when it stopped working I just went and replaced it again... no luck. I kinda gave up on it until I read this thread. After checking power and module, I went back and pulled out the switch in the dash - and found the connector came off the back.

Of all the dumb things....
- NE

That's why you always start with the simple / cheap stuff and work your way up to the complicated / expensive stuff. :D
 






hey,this was interesting I'm having similar issues and you seem to know your stuff.I myself have the 94 explorer 4x4 that at the same time the tranny started slipping,tic in or around engine (that gets worse as warms up),also pressure or...cause power steering cap to come loose and squirt on hood.Now when I drive it when I step on pedal it feels like stickshift without proper rpms.Front diff bone dry,went through everything you said also hubs driverside pulled the who deal out bearings look goodcleaned and repacked,didnt go as deep on the passengers side because of time and the clip if you have ideas please thankyou
 






nice write up i have the same issue with the shift motor but i just took it off and use pair of pliers lol even with fixing the bump stop all i can get is the 4hi light yes i did put it in neutral but my main problem is the popping noise coming from the hubs seems like the 4x4 is slipping not fully functional how ever i took the hubs off cleaned all the components with atf removed all grease in that area except the wheel bearings (automatic locking hubs) how ever i did notice that the plastic piece that looks like it should lock in the hub, has the 2 springs wrapped around it. well its cracked in a few spots could that be my problem with the slippage?
 






wiech
im only assuming this is a 4.0 im not too sure why your power steering cap would pop off i would check it out and make sure that none of the locking tabs are broke but the tic noise does it sound like its under the valve cover area cause if so it could be a worn timing chain or a broken cassette in better words it might have something to do with the timing chain and that could be a few problems. that fix will cost roughly a grand plus parts, i know just had my wifes don at a shop but you can do it your self it will require 7 timing tools here is a link to see those http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228290 and of course the other general mechanics tool set
 






4issues

Hey thanks for the reply Im going to look at the shift motor again more close also the tic only hear when it warmI thoughtmight be exhaust leak from it sitting for a couple of months also the valve cover was a little loose was able to turn nuts or bolts at least a ful turn with little effort.the tic and the diff bone thankyou for reading my post Im struggling her
 






me too man but on a serious note thats how my wifes explorer was i could only hear it when i warmed the truck up and when my rpms exceeded 2.5k but i could hear it real good from the valve cover good luck to you
 






Connot see pics

Do you have a general idea of where the noise is happening?



The obvious first step in diagnosing a dead system is to check the POWER SOURCES, FUSES AND GROUNDS. If these check out, perform the Shift Control Module Diagnostic Test. The illustration shows the Module with pigtail A, B and C attachments. The Diagnostic Test button and Diagnostic Test LED are located on the side of the Shift Control Module.
DISCONNECT the B and C connectors , turn ON the ignition and allow 4 seconds for the Module to power up.
Then PUSH the Diagnostic Test button.
If the LED doesn't illuminate , the Module is dead and must be replaced.
If the LED comes on and stays on for 30 seconds , there is an error condition and the module will have to be replaced.
If the module is OK the LED will flash 4 times .
This test, however, is not 100 percent accurate. During the test, the vehicle isn't operating, so the Shift Control Module isn't receiving data and initiating shifts. If the unit passes the Diagnostic Test, it's probably a good Module. Check for other probable causes, although the Module may need to be replaced even after passing the Diagnostic Test.

Need pic of module so I know what to unplug. Please
 






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