1994 Explorer XLT

[Scheuvront1993]

As mention in my new member forum I have a 1994 Explorer XLT 5 speed. It's my second 1st gen and I love it. She's pretty well loaded, power windows, power locks, sunroof, auto dimming mirror, keyless entry that works flawlessly. She has nearly 200,000 (184,900) to be exact. But she runs like a new truck. Very well maintained throughout her life. 100% stock at the moment. She does have a few problems however. The leaf spring shackles were rusted to hell. One is entirely gone. I got one nut removed but the bolt will not come through the frame and I can not get the nut off the bolt that goes through the spring. I wailed on the top bolt with a sledge hammer and it will not budge. I've doused it in PB blaster and let it sit and still nothing. Any suggestion? I just put wheel bearings, a caliper, and rotor on the passenger side. My 4x4 does not due to the cam assembly being destroyed on the same side. I a large portion on rust on the passenger rocker but it's incredibly clean for a vehicle of this age in my part of the country, also the radiator support is rusted to hell. The passenger side window motor is bad and the window is stuck in the down position. So with all that being said I plan to fix all the little things and then start upgrading. Does anyone know what other brake calipers will fit on the front without modification. Also stupid question but my wife hates the fact that it doesn't have airbags. Is it possible to put a steering column and dash out of a 1995 model in to add airbags. I know there is a lot more involved but is it possible? Is it possible to swap out the entire front end from a 1995 and what all would be involved? I'm just trying to build a better nicer explorer to enjoy for years to come. Thanks a bunch and I'm sorry if this has been covered before on here, I'm just not good at using the search.

 

[Anime]

If you want to keep the rubber bushings in, your best bet is to keep soaking the bolts with PB blaster and keep at it with the sledge hammer over and over a few times a day until it works. You can also just drill/cut/burn out the rubber bushing and get new polyurethane bushings to replace it.

One trick I used when removing the stock rusted bolts was to remove the top bolt, pivot the shackle/raise the frame, put the bolt back in, then drop the weight of the frame on the shackle - this, along with the anti-rotation tab on the lower bolt, and the flange on the shackle made it twist the bolt in the bushing - and busted it loose. This won't always work, and sometimes the shackle is too rusted away or the tab isn't in the right spot to use it like that, but just something to think about - use weight and jacks to exert force when what you can do with human power isn't enough - but do it safely.

The 2-piston calipers from a 93-97 Ranger with the TTB will work, but you need to swap over the steering knuckles as well. Not really worth the $$$ involved unless you can find a parts donor or the parts at the junkyard for cheap. Good brake pads/rotors and having the hydraulic system in good shape lets the stock brakes work fine.

You can swap the front end of a 95-97 or even a 98-01, but it can get pretty involved.
If it needs a new radiator support, then the best thing to do is get a donor vehicle, and swap over the radiator support from that, then the hood, fenders, and headlights/trim should all fit. You'll need to move some wires or use adapters for the different headlamp bulbs.

Swapping in airbags would probably not be a good idea unless you REALLY know what you are doing. Obviously a system that didn't work would be useless, and one that might even malfunction and activate while driving would CAUSE safety issues. Part of the reason people like the first gens is that they DON'T have airbags. If you want airbags, like the look of the 95+ front end, etc. you may want to sell your first gens and get a second or third gen instead.

 

[Scheuvront1993]

Hey thanks a lot for the info. I will probably go with the polyurethane bushings instead of trying to just get the bolts out. I suppose for now the brake upgrade may not be. Worth it but perhaps some time in the future. As for the airbags I don't really care about them myself. It was more of an idea for my wife, I know there would be a ton involved in doing the swap. I personally don't like second gen. Explorers, I just think they're ugly. Also was wondering what makes the front bumpers sag? And how can it be fixed

 

[Anime]

The front (and rear) bumpers dont 'sag', they are usually in odd positions from a collision.

The brackets that mount the bumpers to the frame have some play in them due to the bolt holes being slotted, so sometimes it's just a matter of loosening the bracket bolts, re-positioning the bumper, and tightening the bolts.

If the brackets and/or bumper itself is bent, sometimes you can still get enough adjustment to make it look ok, or the slotted holes in the brackets can be enlarged to give more adjustment, but sometimes the bumper and/or brackets may need to be straightened out before you can get any adjustment at all.

 

[Scheuvront1993]

Hello all it's been a bit since I've been on. I recently picked up a set of seats from a 2007 Chevrolet Equinox. Nothing fancy just in a bit better shape and more comfy, however after a couple of hours I've come to the conclusion that the work involved would not be worth the outcome. Anyhow I was wondering what is the plug under the drivers seat for? It doesn't go to anything at all. Could it really be that easy to swap in power seats? Or is there something I'm missing? Also had a question about my heater, it isn't hot. I know it's almost summer and all but my passenger side window doesn't work and when I leave for work in the AM it's a bit chilly. I set it to heat and it doesn't blow hot. The only time any heat blows is when both switches are turned off, I get a faint amount of heat.

 

[larrydd999]

I'll try to answer a couple of your questions, and others will probably do so as well - probably better than I can... Both of our GEN1 Explorers have power seats and they are indeed plugged into a pigtail under each seat, so I would assume the plug you are asking about is for that purpose. As to the heater, the 'EX heaters tend to be excellent in my experience, so if you aren't getting heat with the slider all of the way over I'd first verify that someone previous hasn't bypassed the heater core and second that the bypass valve just in front of the firewall on the passenger side is allowing coolant to circulate. I've read that the bypass valve is in place to improve the cooling due to the change from R12 to R134a.

 

[Maniak]

Hello all it's been a bit since I've been on. I recently picked up a set of seats from a 2007 Chevrolet Equinox. Nothing fancy just in a bit better shape and more comfy, however after a couple of hours I've come to the conclusion that the work involved would not be worth the outcome. Anyhow I was wondering what is the plug under the drivers seat for? It doesn't go to anything at all. Could it really be that easy to swap in power seats? Or is there something I'm missing? Also had a question about my heater, it isn't hot. I know it's almost summer and all but my passenger side window doesn't work and when I leave for work in the AM it's a bit chilly. I set it to heat and it doesn't blow hot. The only time any heat blows is when both switches are turned off, I get a faint amount of heat.

You can use the seats from a 1st gen or 2nd gen explorer.. Power or non power will work (no idea if memory seats were even an option in 2nd gen, if so, you will want to talk to Bandit Customs as they will know the best if that is doable)..

I have 1997 Moutaineer seats in our '92 XLT. Our XlT came with power seats so there was a plug under the seat with 12V and ground.. I just changed the connectors so I could plug in the 97 seat and viola.. The 1997 power seats worked.

As for the Heat.. Are you saying you get no air movement or all the air movement you get is just not hot? The heater should get pretty to very hot except in winter IF you are running a 180F thermostat (I am, which is why I mention it).

As [MENTION=162473]larrydd999[/MENTION] mentioned, if you heave a heater control bypass valve under the hood (right before the heater hoses go into the firewall) make sure it isn't plugged up and make sure the hoses are connected.

Assuming you have water going into the heater core I'd check the heater core. You can get to it easily.. Pull the glove box (just 2 screws) and then pull the push pin type things for the cover of the heater box, pull the heater box and now run the vehicle. You want to see if that heater core is getting hot. If it is then the issue isn't there

At that point I'd be blaming the blend door which is what helps control how much heat comes from the heater box. I'm pretty sure that is cable driven so it is possible the cable came off the door. Move the heater valve left/right and see if any of those cables are not connected to anything anymore.

~Mark