1994 explorer xlt shift problems

[exploder604]

hello all

I have a 1994 XLT with overdrive (automatic trans). recently on a cold start it will not shift into gear
after i let it warm up( 15 minutes ) it shifts fine . it has 318787 kms on it .
I got the transmission flushed and worked fine for 6 months , then the same problem occurs . i hear it could be a torque converter . is there anything else i could "explore" ( bad pun) to fix the situation? cant afford to buy a new car at the moment and love my explorer. dont trust any transmission repair shops in my area .

 

[timtimtimajim]

I realize you said you had the trans flushed, but is there enough fluid in the trans? I had the same issue with not shifting when cold. Found the fluid level low and once I topped it off with some fluid it worked fine.

 

[exploder604]

yes , fluid is fine , have been checking level when hot and seems at normal level . i think adding to much can screw the tranny worse right?

 

[timtimtimajim]

Yah, adding too much fluid is never a good idea.

It could possibly be your vacuum modulator. Find the vacuum hose that comes off of it and check if there is trans fluid in the hose. Best place to check would be at the vacuum tree on the intake manifold.

I'm hoping someone else might chime in with some ideas.

 

[exploder604]

will be looking at the Vacuum hose , so if their is tranny fluid in the hose is that good or bad?

 

[Gadget X]

If there's fluid in the hose at the vacuum tree, then you need a new modulator valve.

 

[exploder604]

hello
does the part number for Modulator sound correct. the only on i can find in my area is made by frams Part #FFfM2336 . ($40) the motorcraft part comes in at over $200 dollars

 

[timtimtimajim]

That sounds correct.

Just a heads up, if you really want the Motorcraft part you can get it from Rockauto for just over $40.

 

[Rhett]

Here's the guide I followed to do it:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263904&highlight=modulator

Also the only extra thing I'd add, is that it's best to lay in the cab on the driver' side, that gives you the best access to the modulator and the nut/bolt holding it and the heat shield in place.

There's also a small length of vac line (about 2-3" long) running from the transmission to the modulator. It might be a good time to replace that (it's 9/32" vac line).

Finally, if you do have a bad modulator, it's a good idea to blow out the vac line with compressed air before hooking anything up, to clear out any fluid left in it. Blow it out from the engine bay side, it's easier. I used one of those trigger air gun attachments.

 

[Term_14]

i would try 12oz of Lucas stop slip it helps the valves in your valve body my first trans went out put some of this stuff in and it helped for about 1-2 years before i had to replace it

 

[ddenton749]

hello all

I have a 1994 XLT with overdrive (automatic trans). recently on a cold start it will not shift into gear
after i let it warm up( 15 minutes ) it shifts fine . it has 318787 kms on it .
I got the transmission flushed and worked fine for 6 months , then the same problem occurs . i hear it could be a torque converter . is there anything else i could "explore" ( bad pun) to fix the situation? cant afford to buy a new car at the moment and love my explorer. dont trust any transmission repair shops in my area .

I highly doubt the modulator is the problem. That controls your 2-3 shift. Nor is it your torque converter. It sounds like it won't go into gear at all until the fluid warms up.

The biggest problem I have had with my A4LD transmission is the valve body. Over time the spool valves wear the bores to an oval shape and the valve starts to hang up. Add to that the valve body is aluminum so it expands and contracts a lot during heat-cool cycles. On my 93 the torque converter lock up valve got stuck with the converter locked. It acted like a manual when you come to a stop and don't disengage the clutch. After the transmission cooled down for several hours it was driveable as long as I didn't let the converter lock up. I replaced the valve body and it was fine. This was at about 240,000 miles (384,000 km).

It makes sense that you have a spool valve that sticks until the fluid starts to warm up,

The other problem I have had is with the governor that controls the 1-2 shift. When the transmission was cold it took a mile or so before it would shift to second. Once it warmed up it was fine. This part is also aluminum so the coefficient of expansion is large. I didn't work when cold but worked when hot.

 

[VA7LFD]

Here's the guide I followed to do it:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263904&highlight=modulator

Also the only extra thing I'd add, is that it's best to lay in the cab on the driver' side, that gives you the best access to the modulator and the nut/bolt holding it and the heat shield in place.

There's also a small length of vac line (about 2-3" long) running from the transmission to the modulator. It might be a good time to replace that (it's 9/32" vac line).

Finally, if you do have a bad modulator, it's a good idea to blow out the vac line with compressed air before hooking anything up, to clear out any fluid left in it. Blow it out from the engine bay side, it's easier. I used one of those trigger air gun attachments.

Here is a video of the replacement of my modulator valve hope it helps there are three parts. I bought mine from Rock|Auto