1994 Mazda Navajo, pre purchase questions? (Long Post)

[powersmx5]

Hi I am looking at a 94 Black Mazda Navajo with 165,000 miles engine recently rebuilt at 158,000 (owner didnt know what work was done) Sunroof, power locks, windows, 4x4 Asking $1250.00/obo owner has had it for a year used it to drive to the train station and has another car for nice weather.

Negatives

Small area of rust on front lower front fender and dent (no rust anywhere else)
ac blowing hot air
cruise control doesnt engage
periodic check engine light
shocks are blown
tear on drivers side seat bolster
loose plastic sill trim
dented rear bumper, paint flaked off and rust visable
door handles have to be pulled fairly hard to open from inside and outside
rear liftgate handle requires alot of force to open the gate
Filthy engine compartment

Pros
looks pretty dry underneath
pulls strongly throughout the rev range (idles at 900 rpm solid)
all guages work
4x4 hi and lo engages properly
Overall paint is in good shape a few scratches and one dent on front fender paint needs to be cut and polished
Interior is solid needs to be cleaned as in removed and steam cleaned
New front ball joints on both front wheels
a few thumps while going over bumpy roads
Drives nice
The waterpump and radiator look new
Clean title (based on carfax but I hear that its a crapshoot with carfax)


I noticed while looking at front raditor support crossmember where the hood latch mounts the black paint was chipped and I saw a grayish green paint my guess is that it was involved in an accident and they used parts from a green wrecker to fix the damage.

I was looking to offer $950-1000 is that a solid offer for a driver or should I run away because of the small spec of green paint on the support? I am looking for a winter car to make it 4-5 months and then dump?

It seems to me if a car runs and drives 1000 is a good price, let me know if I am crazy

Thanks for the help

 

[LXNavajo_94]

I have basically the same navajo. Its been in the family since new and to be honest the asking price is about what we would pay for one around here in Western NC. As for the problems mentioned none seem to be very big most are just easy fixes. The thumping over bumps its probably the radius arm bushings. The parts are cheap, but the replacement could be either time consuming if you plan on doing the work. Do a search on here you will find the info. Semi expensive if you take it to a shop. Other wise if your just going to use it as a winter vehicle and get rid of it then its probably a good deal. Keep me in mind if you do get it and then decide to get rid of it.

 

[ma96782]

Seriously....you gonna buy a vehicle and only use it for 4-5 months then dump it?? IMHO...thats the crazy part. IF you really need the transportation and there are no other easier/cheaper alternatives........then, the price is right, for the condition.

And, why worry about doing fixes?? It's gone in 4-5 months.

IF, I had to buy a vehicle and only use it, for the 4-5 months.....I'd just drive it......cross my fingers and hope that nothing goes wrong. Call it good enough.

Aloha, Mark

 

[marragtop]

If you are only going to keep it for 4-5 months, just do whatever you need to do to make it road worthy. You won't need the AC. Radius arm bushings is labor intensive, especially if they are the original riveted ones. The weakest point on the Gen I Explorer is the auto trans. Make sure you test drive it when it is completely cold, and that it shifts smoothly between gears. Don't forget reverse. If the owner doesn't have any receipts on the 'rebuilt' engine, assume it's not. I've seen instances of where people will put valve cover gaskets on, gunk the motor and pass it off as 'rebuilt'. Just my 2 cents.... good luck!