1994 Ranger. Wiper problems.

[Walt94XLT]

Hello everyone. Long time reader, first time poster.

On my 1994 Ranger XLT--wipers only work on high speed and won't park.

After searching this forum for a while getting various ideas on a possible fix--

I decided to start by changing the wiper motor.

Problem was not fixed. darn.

Now, I when I rotate the end of the multi-function switch to the first (longest setting for the intermittent wiper)

I can hear a 'click' inside the dash near the middle.

but the wipers still only work when cranked up to the highest setting.

What should I do next?

change the entire switch on the column?

Does a '94 have a GEM or something like that that needs changed, is that what's clicking when I turn on the swicth?

relays under the hood somewhere?

thanks for any suggestions or for pointing me toward more helpful threads.

Thanks much

Walt Maenhout
Corvallis, Oregon

 

[TheTurk]

its most likely the switch , ive seen many cars with almost same symptoms , most of them was caused by bad switch...

 

[Walt94XLT]

thank you for your reply!
I will report back after I've changed the multifunction switch.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the Ranger section. Check the wiper control module. You might hear a clicking noise from the module.

 

[Walt94XLT]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the Ranger section. Check the wiper control module. You might hear a clicking noise from the module.

Thank you, BB!

I really don't want to take the dash off to get to the module.

grrr

 

[tmwalsh]

The speed of the wiper motor is controlled by where the power is given to the motor. In the 'slow' speed selection, the power{brushes} is not 180 off from side to side in the DC motor. The high speed has the power{brushes} 180 apart. Being a little off, reduces the efficiency, and thus speed of the motor.
The park, low and intermitent wiper positions depend on the slow 'motor' setting to be functional. If the motor went bad, it would not park nor would the intermittent and slow positions work.
The click you hear on the longest intermittent setting is the relay closing [maybe] and sending power to the low input of the motor. I think I would get a voltmeter out onto the motor contacts to determine if 'low' power is getting there. I am not sure if it has to run through the mult-function switch, but I'd not be surprised. Park uses low speed in reverse until a 'folding' switch gets folded or un-folded. I never could figure how they designed the monkey-motion that makes it work, but they did and it does.
tom

 

[Walt94XLT]

Wanted to update this thread so you guys can hear how it panned out.

After replacing the wiper motor and multi-function switch myself, as those those are things within my ability--

NO FIX.

Took it to my mechanic and he had a heck of a time chasing it down.

Was the interval governor in the dash and according to him (via the local Ford dealership) that part is discontinued. Getting a replacement from another state would have taken a while.

So he opened it up and found a bad solder joint and voila!

I have intermittent wipers again.

All it took was replacing stuff that wasn't broken and paying to have someone fix what was. :

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update! That part is called the wiper control module which was suspected originally.

 

[Walt94XLT]

yep--but Ford stressed calling it a 'governor' which is why I changed my post.

just glad it's working because it rains so much here in the Willamette Valley!

 

[m165766]

Wiper Governor/Control Module fixed

Followed this thread and a few others on trouble-shooting my wiper. Went straight to the module after reading all the histories. One site had various suggestions for getting to the module but none mentioned that the mount bracket could be removed to more easily access the screws holding the module.
Once you remove the plastic panel (2 screws) and the metal shield (screws), a 10mm nut is visible on the right side structure and another sheet metal screw on the lower right edge, just about below the left side of the ash tray. Remove these two fastners and the whole bracket drops free enough to easily access the module screws (mine were not torx, they were 7/32 hex). Whole process, about 15minute once you figure that out!
Mine was also a bad solder joint. Since this seems to be the primary failure, one must suspect over time current draw melts the solder joints. Only the power input to the relay was melted on mine.
Total time: module out 30 min; drive to Walmart for $10 soldering kit -30 min; solder 10 min (most heating the iron); module in 15 min (included re-removing lower panel, shield and bracket I had re-installed).