1999 302 5.0l v8 AWD Fuel line Disconnect Tool Size for Fuel Pump Line

[Digital Dad]

1999 302 5.0l v8 AWD Fuel line Disconnect Tool Size for the filter and most importantly what size is needed to remove the fuel line from the fuel pump on top of the tank?

I am replacing the fuel pump right now and I am using the 5/16" Quick Disconnect Tool made by Lisle 39410.

I know the procedure, push the line toward the tool while pushing the tool into the fitting, then pull the line off.

But its not happening?

 

[Torqueranger]

The lines are frozen to the hard lines .. Use your hands or pliers to gentle rotate it back and fourth to break it free and use some lube helps too...

 

[koda2000]

I found that a 3/8 metal tool worked there (rather than the 5/16 size that works for the fuel filter) but the last 2 pumps I changed I didn't bother to release the fuel line. I just dropped the tank enough to unbolt the assembly and then dropped the tank to the ground and pulled the assembly out. once out, you can just put the assembly over the leaf spring to work on it. of course, if your replacing the assembly that doesn't help, but if your just replacing the pump it makes it much easier. that fuel line fitting can be tough to release, you need three hands, and the plastic tools don't work on it. the trick is to push the two sides of the fitting together while pushing the tool in to release the clip. I spend an hour with the plastic tool an about 10 seconds with the metal tool and it came apart.

 

[Digital Dad]

Mine had 5/16" fuel lines on the fuel pump and filter lines too.

I ended up removing the 6 bolts from the hanger assembly, sliding the tank out from under the truck and with the fuel pump all by itself just hanging there by the fuel line I finally had enough room to get the line off.

I took the tank to car wash and sprayed it out and brushed the inside real good. Luckily it had no visible rust to worry about, if it had I was going to buy some "Red Coat" tank sealer from parts store and seal it. Dried it out put it all back together and now I am waiting till morning to get clean fuel to put in the truck to prime it and start it up.

Note: to anyone reading this, the connections on the top of my 99 5.0 AWD tank were the vent line(very smooth shiny stiff line), it had buttons on the sides of the fitting(looked like tabs and felt odd to push, I almost remember hearing a slight click when I pushed them in) that had to be squeezed to pull it off, an electrical connection that had a single button on the top of it that had to be pushed while you pulled it off(harder than it sounds, I used a small screw driver to push it), and of course the insanely difficult fuel line that sits right against the frame so you can not pull it off since your hand is already against the frame in the first place. That is why I pulled the fuel pump from the tank, slid it out of the way and then took off the fuel line when I had much more room and easier access. Everywhere I looked it said to remove those connections but not how? So maybe this might help you.

EDIT: Thank you Torqueranger & koda2000, sometimes you just have to hear someone else say something you already knew, just to give you the confidence you need to proceed.

 

[koda2000]

EDIT: Thank you Torqueranger & koda2000, sometimes you just have to hear someone else say something you already knew, just to give you the confidence you need to proceed.

Yes, all those connections are tricky to release. Mostly because it's so hard to see them. The one for the shiny vent line is particularly strange as you have to squeeze the grey clip in order to "warp" it enough to pull off. I ended up breaking one side on the first one I did, but it still works ok. After changing 3 fuel pumps, I'm now an expert on doing this job and can do one in record time. So many times when you work on cars you obtain knowledge that you never have to use again. Not so when you have 5 Gen II Explores/Mountaineers. That's one of the reasons I "collect" them... LOL. That's the great thing about this forum. Someone has usually done the job before you and can save you time, expense and aggravation,

 

[Digital Dad]

Yes, all those connections are tricky to release. Mostly because it's so hard to see them. The one for the shiny vent line is particularly strange as you have to squeeze the grey clip in order to "warp" it enough to pull off. I ended up breaking one side on the first one I did, but it still works ok. After changing 3 fuel pumps, I'm now an expert on doing this job and can do one in record time. So many times when you work on cars you obtain knowledge that you never have to use again. Not so when you have 5 Gen II Explores/Mountaineers. That's one of the reasons I "collect" them... LOL. That's the great thing about this forum. Someone has usually done the job before you and can save you time, expense and aggravation,

I bought about 4 gallons late last night came home and put it in the tank. Turned the key on and heard that beautiful hum. Then I turned the key back and forth to the start position 5-6 times to prime the tank, I knew since I changed the filter too that the lines were pretty dry, I debated about bleeding the system via the schrader valve but decided to give it try first. It cranked right over and started up with no hesitation!! I did all the steps right on my end so now I hope this ReTech fuel pump gives me many years of good service.

 

[koda2000]

I bought about 4 gallons late last night came home and put it in the tank. Turned the key on and heard that beautiful hum. Then I turned the key back and forth to the start position 5-6 times to prime the tank, I knew since I changed the filter too that the lines were pretty dry, I debated about bleeding the system via the schrader valve but decided to give it try first. It cranked right over and started up with no hesitation!! I did all the steps right on my end so now I hope this ReTech fuel pump gives me many years of good service.

Congrats!

 

[pcam13]

Once in the bush I cut the end of a sharpie off, trimmed in half and shoved it in using needle nose vice grips. Works in a pinch.

 

[Digital Dad]

Once in the bush I cut the end of a sharpie off, trimmed in half and shoved it in using needle nose vice grips. Works in a pinch.

In the Bush..................ahhhh I wish I was there right now........

You know, I watched a video of a guy showing how that can be done and if it had gotten any worse for me trying to get those lines off I would have tried it, I thought about it a couple of times. I even thought of eating the cost of the new plastic tool from Lisle I just bought and getting an aluminum one like someone else suggested worked better than the plastic ones too.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

As was suggested above, a shot of lube helps too.
I used WD-40 and the metal release tool on mine.

Those confound plastic quick-release clips are a real
pain though...

 

[SoNic67]

I have tried 4 different tools for that exact line - three bought, one rented. Plastic, metal, different sizes...

Nothing worked, I ended up leaving the pump assembly attached to the line while I was replacing the pump itself.

 

[koda2000]

5/16 for the fuel filter, 3/8 for the fuel pump assembly worked for me. I bought a set of aluminum disconnect tools (OEM brand) from Autozone for about $20. The work pretty well, but SoNic67 is correct in that you do not need to disconnect the fuel pump assembly line to get the assembly out of the tank. I did 2 pumps recently and leaving the assembly attached was much easier. There's a trick to getting these fittings to release, but even then it can be difficult. The trick is that you have to be able to press the fitting/lines together slightly and then push the tool in. Harder than it sounds unless you were born with 3 hands. Often there's dirt in the fitting and that prohibits you from getting them to release. Clean them out with parts cleaner and then WD40. If the lines won't move together slightly, they will not come apart. I find the plastic tools are useless.