koda2000
Explorer Addict
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- September 2, 2011
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This is kinda long, so the short version is that I purchased a 4-piece OEM brand Line Disconnect Set from AutoZone for $19.99 and it worked great! PN 25150.
The long version:
In the never ending saga of everybody having trouble releasing the spring clip retainers from fuel lines, here's something that worked really well for me. I am replacing the original fuel pump in my 2000 Mountaineer 5.0 RWD with 180K on the clock. As I didn't want to cut a hole in the floor and as my truck has lived all its life in the southeast (no rust) I decided to drop my fuel tank to replace the pump. I ran the tank almost empty, got the truck as high up in the air (front and back) as possible on safety stands and God granted me a 70+ degree day for the job (what's the saying about the sun shining on a dog's ass once in a while?)
Getting the fuel tank out was a snap. I removed the left rear wheel, loosened the rubber filler and vent hose clamps at the tank and wiggled the hoses off. I then removed the two bolts at the front of the tank (and threaded in a piece of bailing wire to act as a hinge). Then I placed a floor jack, with a piece of wood on it, under the rear part of the tank, removed the tank strap bolt and strap, and lowered the jack a few inches so I could get at the fuel & evap lines and electrical connector. I then disconnected everything except the fuel line, which I couldn't get off to save my life.
I checked customer reviews for disconnect tools on-line. Some people had good luck with the cheap plastic tools, or the scissors-type metal tool and I've used them both in the past with success, but they would not work on the fuel pump assembly connector end. I finally decided to just go to the auto parts store and see what was available. Normally I don't like buying cheap tools, but I just couldn't see spending $50-$100 on something I use so infrequently.
AutoZone had a set of metal tools made by OEM (PN 25150) for $19.99, which looked like the more expensive ones I'd seen on-line. The 4-piece set includes 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and an oil cooler line tool. In the past, I've used 5/16 size on the fuel filter, but it turned out I had to use the 3/8 size on the pump assembly side.
Using the new tool (3/8 size) had the fuel pump assembly line off in less than 15 seconds. I should include that the usual cleaning and blowing out of the connector had been done and you have to squeeze the connector and fitting together while using the tool as always.
Next I tried the new tool on the fuel filter (5/16 size). I found that in order to push the tool into the fitting required using a pair of needle nose pliers between the tool and the filter for leverage, but I had the filter off in under a minute. Hope this helps someone.
Tip: Leaving the fuel filter in its bracket/holder while disconnecting the lines makes it easier to press on the tool.
The long version:
In the never ending saga of everybody having trouble releasing the spring clip retainers from fuel lines, here's something that worked really well for me. I am replacing the original fuel pump in my 2000 Mountaineer 5.0 RWD with 180K on the clock. As I didn't want to cut a hole in the floor and as my truck has lived all its life in the southeast (no rust) I decided to drop my fuel tank to replace the pump. I ran the tank almost empty, got the truck as high up in the air (front and back) as possible on safety stands and God granted me a 70+ degree day for the job (what's the saying about the sun shining on a dog's ass once in a while?)
Getting the fuel tank out was a snap. I removed the left rear wheel, loosened the rubber filler and vent hose clamps at the tank and wiggled the hoses off. I then removed the two bolts at the front of the tank (and threaded in a piece of bailing wire to act as a hinge). Then I placed a floor jack, with a piece of wood on it, under the rear part of the tank, removed the tank strap bolt and strap, and lowered the jack a few inches so I could get at the fuel & evap lines and electrical connector. I then disconnected everything except the fuel line, which I couldn't get off to save my life.
I checked customer reviews for disconnect tools on-line. Some people had good luck with the cheap plastic tools, or the scissors-type metal tool and I've used them both in the past with success, but they would not work on the fuel pump assembly connector end. I finally decided to just go to the auto parts store and see what was available. Normally I don't like buying cheap tools, but I just couldn't see spending $50-$100 on something I use so infrequently.
AutoZone had a set of metal tools made by OEM (PN 25150) for $19.99, which looked like the more expensive ones I'd seen on-line. The 4-piece set includes 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and an oil cooler line tool. In the past, I've used 5/16 size on the fuel filter, but it turned out I had to use the 3/8 size on the pump assembly side.
Using the new tool (3/8 size) had the fuel pump assembly line off in less than 15 seconds. I should include that the usual cleaning and blowing out of the connector had been done and you have to squeeze the connector and fitting together while using the tool as always.
Next I tried the new tool on the fuel filter (5/16 size). I found that in order to push the tool into the fitting required using a pair of needle nose pliers between the tool and the filter for leverage, but I had the filter off in under a minute. Hope this helps someone.
Tip: Leaving the fuel filter in its bracket/holder while disconnecting the lines makes it easier to press on the tool.
