1999 Explorer - Cranked a couple times, then nothing. New battery too!

[EricJRW]

So a couple weeks ago I replaced the old battery. No problems at all until this AM. It was a cool one in Texas, but not that cold. Engine cranked a few times, then nothing. I put the charger on, and noticed it's not drawing amps like a dead battery. Then I open the door and notice the interior lights are not coming on either (still on charger, so lights should have come regardless of battery).

I looked at all the BIG fuses under the hood, and all look good.

As I am a loss, I'm going to start on the smaller fuses now (with my glasses on), but before doing so, wanted to get this posted. I also plan to see if I can find a fuse diagram, or if there is a fusible (?) link.

Any ideas?

Thank you in advance for your help, Eric

 

[koda2000]

Did you clean your terminals and make sure they're tight on the new battery? Also, if you have those bolt-on replacement terminals make sure the bolts are tight on the wires.

 

[J_C]

A multimeter would help. If you don't have one, even the (free with coupon or $3-$4 otherwise) cheapie at Harbor Freight would suffice for these basic measurements.

First I would measure the charger voltage with no battery connected - it may not be a predictable voltage depending on the smarts/design of the charger, but just to make sure it's outputting something.

Next measure the battery voltage. Fully charged it should sit around 12.6V, though a bit lower after sitting and some attempts to start the vehicle wouldn't be surprising.

What were the symptoms of the prior battery failing, and how old was it? Did it seem to slowly get worse as an old battery would, or did it seem like some fault had started and caused a rapid decline in the battery?

Next measure the battery voltage with the charger connected. It should be rising towards 14.(n)V, maybe a bit lower if a low power trickle charger. If you have an electrical short somewhere, a typical charger has at least a minimal level of short circuit protection and may cease output, either through a blown fuse, intelligent shutdown till the short is removed, or a thermal switch that breaks circuit but closes the circuit again once it cools down (usually will make a click noise).

Your owners manual should have the interior fuse box, and under hood power distribution box, fuses & relays diagrams. For the moment I would ignore that the interior lights aren't coming on. I mean the problem may be causing it, but it seems more direct to troubleshoot from the perspective of it not cranking.

 

[J_C]

These are the diagrams for my '98. Your '99 might be the same. If you were to suspect the starter motor relay, you could swap it with another relay of the same type, like the blower motor relay on this one, or do the same for any other relays you suspect:

 

[EricJRW]

To answer your questions:

I do have a multi-meter, and already checked a few things.

My charger is a very old, very dumb, Sears 4 amp, model. It has served me faithfully, though manually, for many years. It is putting out 13.62 VDC.

Battery measures 12.65 VDC. It's less than a month old.

Battery voltage, measured while charging, is 15.1 VDC.

No symptoms, prior to today, with the NEW battery. Old battery would exhibit slow, labored, cranking. Sometimes it would be enough to start, sometimes not. I'd use the charger for a bit and give it another go. After a full charge (I would watch the amps drop on the meter, when it was drawing several less amps, I'd give it a go, always with success). The battery was quite old. Well beyond the warranty period, by at least year, maybe two. I took pictures, as I was impressed with how long it lasted. It was MAXX from Walmart, but can't find those photos (I think I deleted them).

I do have owners manual, and checked all large fuses visually. I also checked the 175A Mega fuse, on the side of the distribution box. Both sides show 12 volts when checked to ground. I did not check resistance across this fuse as the battery is still connected.

To me, the oddest thing to me is no interior lights, radio, or door door locks. Even with a dead battery, I'm used to seeing these work when the charger is connected.

Well, thank you for the insight. Heading back out to stick my head under the hood, again.

Eric

 

[EricJRW]

Should I recheck that last voltage (15.1), or is normal to be higher since the battery is drawing some current? The meter starts out at about 3 amps, but will drop to between 1 & 2 after 30 mins or so (these last numbers from memory).

 

[EricJRW]

Did you clean your terminals and make sure they're tight on the new battery? Also, if you have those bolt-on replacement terminals make sure the bolts are tight on the wires.

Yes, I cleaned terminal posts and clamps. Everything is tight.

Eric

 

[koda2000]

12.6 volts measured at the battery is considered fully charged. 15V with engine running is a little bit high (typically you should see around 14 +/- volts, but that might just be your meter).

When you check voltage at the battery are you touching the test leads to the terminals or to the battery posts?

 

[J_C]

Should I recheck that last voltage (15.1), or is normal to be higher since the battery is drawing some current? The meter starts out at about 3 amps, but will drop to between 1 & 2 after 30 mins or so (these last numbers from memory).

15.1V while charging is fine, more a sign of an unregulated charger than anything.

Now I would grab the multimeter, and along with a helper turning the key, measure for where there should be voltage on that diagram I posted.

You should be getting ~12V to the starter at all times on the red wire, and on the yellow wire going to the ignition switch and one of the starter motor relay socket contacts.

When your helper turns the ignition switch to start, you should get 12V on the tan/red wire going to the starter relay coil socket contact. You can consult a diagram for that relay to see its pinout or it might even be printed right on the side of the relay.

You can also check continuity or resistance between the starter rely coil ground pin and chassis ground, and/or swap that relay with another like the one for the blower motor as mentioned previously.

Once you find where you aren't getting power you can backtrack to the fault.

 

[EricJRW]

12.6 volts measured at the battery is considered fully charged. 15V with engine running is a little bit high (typically you should see around 14 +/- volts, but that might just be your meter).

When you check voltage at the battery are you touching the test leads to the terminals or to the battery posts?

Winner! I was about to say yes to both, as I thought, "What difference does it make?", but I've been bit doing that before, and the negative cable under my hood is a bit weird. There is a lug on the end of the wire. And the lug bolts to the clamp. As I touched my probe to the negative wire, in the lug, I heard the faintest little arc. "Ah-ah!", I thought. The lug also moved a bit (not much). So I pulled the lug off, sanded lug and where lug contacts clamp, put it back together, and Voila, interior lights are on and it cranked and started just like it should with that new battery.

So, a GREAT BIG THANK-YOU to you all!

Now I really need to focus on getting rid of this beast. It's at that point where things are breaking faster than I can fix them.

I have a post on the passenger door lock. And I'll being doing another post on how to get to driver side windshield washer fluid line. Seems there's one more thing too... Oh well, just happy this biggest problem is solved.

Thank you and Happy Halloween (no goblins for me, fingers crossed),

Eric

 

[koda2000]

Winner! I was about to say yes to both, as I thought, "What difference does it make?", but I've been bit doing that before, and the negative cable under my hood is a bit weird. There is a lug on the end of the wire. And the lug bolts to the clamp. As I touched my probe to the negative wire, in the lug, I heard the faintest little arc. "Ah-ah!", I thought. The lug also moved a bit (not much). So I pulled the lug off, sanded lug and where lug contacts clamp, put it back together, and Voila, interior lights are on and it cranked and started just like it should with that new battery.

So, a GREAT BIG THANK-YOU to you all!

Now I really need to focus on getting rid of this beast. It's at that point where things are breaking faster than I can fix them.

I have a post on the passenger door lock. And I'll being doing another post on how to get to driver side windshield washer fluid line. Seems there's one more thing too... Oh well, just happy this biggest problem is solved.

Thank you and Happy Halloween (no goblins for me, fingers crossed),

Eric

Glad you figured it out. I find checking the simplest stuff first is always the best approach. Your interior lights not coming on was my first clue that you had a bad battery connection.

 

[EricJRW]

Glad you figured it out. I find checking the simplest stuff first is always the best approach. Your interior lights not coming on was my first clue that you had a bad battery connection.

Very keen observation. Coupled with a recent new battery meant thinks got jostled. Just a weird coincidence that it was the first cold day in Fort Worth.

I am breathing such a heavy sigh of relief and words cannot express my gratitude to you all.

Eric