2000 Explorer Tailgate Gap; Water Intrusion

[ScottandMegan]

Hi All -

I searched before posting this inquiry. Huge gap at top of tailgate on metal part above rear window hatch where metal tailgate top meets the body of the vehicle at the roof.
About a 1” gap that allows rain to pour in. Just got worse over time. It actually shuts ok at the bottom even though it is a crazy huge gap at top.
Stock vehicle. Not seeing where hinges allow for adjustment to pull it in tight.
searched YouTube as well. Not finding anything.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Two thoughts:

(1). The very heavy hatch can be aligned to some extent using the two hinges... the hinge to hatch bolts loosen, and control up and down movement of the hatch. The hinge to body bolts also loosen, and control in and out movement of the hatch. To access the hinge to body bolts, you have to pull small sections of the rear headliner back. The heavy hatch is difficult to work with, and you need to remove the hydraulic lift/supports from the side when you are working on this. And that makes it even more difficult to work with. Maybe use an adjustable pole to support the hatch in the up position, when necessary. You also should remove the lower hatch posts on the body when making adjustments.

(2). My hatch cracked very close to the area where the hinge bolts to it... The hatch could not be aligned, and you could see the play when looking at the hinges from the underside and moving the hatch up and down. This caused a lot of play in the passenger side hinge area, especially when the hydraulic lift/supports were in place. A local body shop told me that it could not be welded, as there was not enough strong metal in the area. A local welder fixed it last year, after I removed the hatch and brought it to the welder.

No problems since the ”fix” last year.

Good luck with this.

p.s. This is also one of the World‘s largest rat traps when the hatch is in the up position without the hydraulic lift/supports, and supported by poles. Don’t let it get you!

 

[Already_Taken]

Two thoughts:

(1). The very heavy hatch can be aligned to some extent using the two hinges... the hinge to hatch bolts loosen, and control up and down movement of the hatch. The hinge to body bolts also loosen, and control in and out movement of the hatch. To access the hinge to body bolts, you have to pull small sections of the rear headliner back. The heavy hatch is difficult to work with, and you need to remove the hydraulic lift/supports from the side when you are working on this. And that makes it even more difficult to work with. Maybe use an adjustable pole to support the hatch in the up position, when necessary. You also should remove the lower hatch posts on the body when making adjustments.

(2). My hatch cracked very close to the area where the hinge bolts to it... The hatch could not be aligned, and you could see the play when looking at the hinges from the underside and moving the hatch up and down. This caused a lot of play in the passenger side hinge area, especially when the hydraulic lift/supports were in place. A local body shop told me that it could not be welded, as there was not enough strong metal in the area. A local welder fixed it last year, after I removed the hatch and brought it to the welder.

No problems since the ”fix” last year.

Good luck with this.

p.s. This is also one of the World‘s largest rat traps when the hatch is in the up position without the hydraulic lift/supports, and supported by poles. Don’t let it get you!

second. i have the same problem, and i put a support bracket im temporarily. i just boight one from the JY to replace my 98 one. its going to get repainted soon and on the rig. it was caused when i was replacing the struts and i supported it with posts... never again... i havent asked about welding but i imagine it could be done im too lazy to find a welder near me

 

[CDW6212R]

The hinges for the hatch are possible to damage and still function. They aren't the thickest metal parts, and a damaged hatch can easily bend the hinges out of shape, leaving a bad gap etc. So I'll bet the hinges on your hatch are bent, and won't be possible to adjust the hatch to fit right. Look at them closely as you slowly open and close the hatch. I'll bet there is some looseness of the hinge or pins visible if they were damaged much.

Are your striker bushings worn out, or not lasting very long? My prior 98 has a slightly damaged right hinge, from some owner installing an antenna mount at the top edge. So I've had a hard time getting any striker bushing to last on the right side. I adjusted the hinges a little to get a better fit of the hatch to the body, which helped a little. But I ended up seeing the bad hinge, and bought a new one. They weren't too bad when I got them, about $35 apiece I think it was.

I suggest replacing both hinges and strikers first, and then play with the adjustment of the hatch(the hinges and strikers).