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2000 pinion bearing

Kidd7

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 13, 2014
Messages
307
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City, State
RTP, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 X AWD EB 5L
I have a 2000 mountaineer awd. I just had it in the shop and the mechanic said my nose is coming from the rear pinion beating. I searched the forum and can't find any info. What goes into replacing these bearings? Thanks.
 



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Changing the pinion bearings is a pain.

Support the axle, remove the rims and calipers.

Remove the differential cover and drain the diff.

Remove thd center pin retainer, the center pin and after pushing the axles inward, remove the c clips. Slide the axles out of the way.

Remove the 4 carrier bearing caps keeping track of orientation and side.

Pry out the carrier, take careful note of the shims.

Lock the pinion flange into place (large pipe wrench) and disconnect the driveshaft and then the pinion flange nut. Use a 3 jaw puller to separate the flange from the pinion.

Remove the pinion and knock out the bearing races and seal.

Use a press or bearing puller to remove the bearing from the pinion. Note the shim between the bearing and pinion gear.

Reuse the shim and press on a new bearing. Install new races and seal. With a new crush sleeve, assemble the pinion and tighten the pinion nut untill it takes 20 inch pounds to spin the pinion. Again, it takes a lot of force to tighten the nut but GO SLOW! You'll want to take up all the slack in the bearings then maybe every 1/4 (or less) turn of the pinion nut, check the turning force (preload).

Once the preload is right, reassemble the diff EXACTLY as it was originally.
 






I'm reviving this b/c I'm going to take on this job this month. I need to rebuild the t-case and replace this bearing, both are noisy and she vibrates badly at highway speeds. So being that I need to remove both driveshafts for the pinion and t-case I'm planning on replacing the u-joints also. Anything else I should consider replacing?
If I reinstall the center pin and retainer before removing the carrier will it hold the shims in place?
Will the shims on the pinion gear stay in place until the bearings are pressed off?
As for parts for the pinion bearing: I need the bearing, seal, and crush tube. Anything else?
In regard to preload, that is the force needed to spin the pinion gear, right? Meaning that it will not rotate by hand? To set preload I will need to lock the pinion in place, tighten the nut and check the force to spin every so often? Am I right here?
Thanks for the help.
 






One more thing to replace, carrier bearings. Often that whine from the 8.8 is traced to these.
 






OK, where are these carrier bearings at? When I read carrier bearing I thought of my pickup with a 2 piece drive shaft, that is not the case on this Mountaineer.
 






As mentioned above, the 4 carrier bearings holding the carrier. You can get to them more easily after pulling the axles out.
 






Often enough with 8.8's it's easier and not much more expensive to replace with a used differential. There are tons of them at yards. Check for any leaks on the seals, then pop the cover off and inspect the gears. If all good, refill with good oil and friction modifier then button up and install.
 






+1 on a rear end swap, if you arent re-gearing.
 






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