2001 Explorer-Running out of ideas

[RomeovilleIL]

Replace just the pump itself. Airtex is at most of the parts stores for around $100 plus another $15 for the pickup sock. RockAuto carries them for about $70 together so if you can wait for delivery you can save some $$$. However in my experience there hasnt been any difference in performance or lifespan based on brand. I have installed a bunch of $20 Herkos complete kits that have worked fine with no failures after two years.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fuel pump replacement - 2000 Explorer Sport

Fuel pump replacement - 2000 Explorer Sport

 

[stevechaos]

Swapped the fuel pump today.
Still runs like crap. No CEL or pending codes either. It does run better, and once it's up and moving has a lot more power, but it will still hesitate from time to time and you have to turn it off and then back on once again to get it to take off. It seems like if you run it straight away it's good to go, but as soon as you stop and let it idle it wants to run like crap again.

 

[R1dd1cK]

You can replace the pump by its self.

 

[2000StreetRod]

read the fuel trims

You mentioned in an earlier post that you purchased a scanner and one bank was lean and the other was rich. I suggest that you read the long and short term fuel trims for both banks and post them.

Are both pre-cat O2 sensors now connected?

 

[stevechaos]

You mentioned in an earlier post that you purchased a scanner and one bank was lean and the other was rich. I suggest that you read the long and short term fuel trims for both banks and post them.

Are both pre-cat O2 sensors now connected?

Those codes were indeed pending, but since I changed the intake gaskets, they have cleared and haven't returned.
Yes, both 02 sensors are in place.
What really confuses me is the key thing. I can't for the life of me figure out why cycling the key on and off seems to fix the issue, which is what has me thinking it's some electrical nonsense.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Re-test your fuel pressure with the new pump. See if it immediately gives proper pressure on the first key turn. If it doesnt then something is impeading the new pump. Possibly electrical, but dont discount mechanical issues as well such as a pinched fuel line or plugged filter.

 

[stevechaos]

Re-test your fuel pressure with the new pump. See if it immediately gives proper pressure on the first key turn. If it doesnt then something is impeading the new pump. Possibly electrical, but dont discount mechanical issues as well such as a pinched fuel line or plugged filter.

I tried that yesterday via the tire gauge. My first reading was 45, followed by another at 45. I know that's still low, but I had to just walk away at that point. I suppose a plugged line or filter could be the culprit, but I just replaced the filter. It definitely has more flow now, but obviously still struggles.
I guess I could feed it ANOTHER fuel filter and check for smashed or pinched lines, and swap the relays again, but that's about all I can think of.

 

[2000StreetRod]

low fuel pressure

45 psi is plenty for starting the engine but you should have about 65 psi when the engine is running. Did your new fuel pump come with a hose and did you install it? Sometimes the hose from the pump to the fuel pressure regulator splits causing a loss of pressure. There's always the possibility the intank fuel pressure regulator is defective. I don't know if a replacement can be purchased. You may have to purchase an entire assembly. Before doing that I would make sure the fuel pressure reading of 45 psi is accurate. My fuel presssure gauge doesn't work well with the Scraeder valve. I always have to remove the valve core to get an accurate reading.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

More than likley the reading of 45 is correct given the pressure readings you took before appeared accurate.

You likely got the wrong pump. The older explorer systems with the return line use a pump rated at 45 psi max. It looks almost identical physically and does fit using same wiring, but does not provide sufficient flow. Thats why multiple key turns are getting the same reading, while the old failing pump would add pressure with additional key turns.

The correct pump is rated at 80-100 psi max cutoff with 50 gph flow.

 

[stevechaos]

More than likley the reading of 45 is correct given the pressure readings you took before appeared accurate.

You likely got the wrong pump. The older explorer systems with the return line use a pump rated at 45 psi max. It looks almost identical physically and does fit using same wiring, but does not provide sufficient flow. Thats why multiple key turns are getting the same reading, while the old failing pump would add pressure with additional key turns.

The correct pump is rated at 80-100 psi max cutoff with 50 gph flow.

The pump I bought was the airtex E2471. I cross referenced it on multiple sites, and it came back as the right animal. The connector was different, and I had to replace it, just like in "2000streetrods" tutorial.
I replaced the pump, strainer, hose. Everything that came with the kit was used.
The issue isn't running it under load. Once you can get it going, it will go great now. The problem is at idle and take off.
When I start it up it will idle fine, but the longer it runs the idle will start trying to adjust. If you let it idle and then don't immediately start moving it won't go, you have to key it off and back on first. Sometimes if you play with the pedal for a few minutes it will eventually start moving, but if you put it in gear and start going right after you turn it on, it won't screw up until you stop. Then it seems to have trouble finding idle again.
Since I replaced the pump it has more pep when it's moving than it's had since I purchased it. The problem is getting it to that point.
I'm really getting to the point where I just want to part it out or sell the whole thing. It doesn't make any sense; everything I have done has made it run better and minimized the issue by varying degrees, but the issue remains, and I'm getting tired of throwing parts and time at it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

stick with it

I encourage you to keep trying to identify the source of the problem. You won't be able to sell it for much in its present condition. You'll hate yourself if you sell it cheap and the buyer fixes it with some simple replacement. I suggest that you test the TPS and the MAF sensor: Ford Explorer - Ranger TPS Test Procedure, MAF Sensor Test Procedure

So far you've replaced the front timing guides, EGR sensor, plugs, wires, oil filter and oil, upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, and fuel pump. You've cleaned the air filter, MAF sensor, IAC valve and throttle body. You've removed the cats.

What did you mean by "front timing guides"? Did you mean the left guide assembly or the primary chain guide? It's too bad that you can't perform a compression test. What did the old spark plugs look like when you replaced them? What do you mean by "adjusted the idle"? What did you use to clean the MAF sensor with? I suggest that you recheck the spark plug wires for correct connections:

Many people hook up #5 & #6 incorrectly.

 

[stevechaos]

So far you've replaced the front timing guides, EGR sensor, plugs, wires, oil filter and oil, upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, and fuel pump. You've cleaned the air filter, MAF sensor, IAC valve and throttle body. You've removed the cats.

What did you mean by "front timing guides"? Did you mean the left guide assembly or the primary chain guide? It's too bad that you can't perform a compression test. What did the old spark plugs look like when you replaced them? What do you mean by "adjusted the idle"? What did you use to clean the MAF sensor with? I suggest that you recheck the spark plug wires for correct connections:
View attachment 76745
Many people hook up #5 & #6 incorrectly.

Primary chain guide. The other's looked like they had been replaced previously.
The old plugs looked good. They weren't gapped correctly, but they looked good. Seems like they hadn't been changed in awhile though, considering how tough they were to remove.
I didn't technically adjust the idle. I tightened the cruise control cable that had come loose and was overextended, which was causing a lot of slack in the throttle cable. I just never got around to correcting the error in my post.
I cleaned the MAF with the MAF sensor cleaner. I used carb cleaner on the IAC and the throttle body though.
I will be rechecking the plugs and wires. I replaced them one at a time to avoid mixing them up, but I suppose that wouldn't do any good if they were already mixed up to begin with.

 

[stevechaos]

I haven't had much time to mess around with the truck, and most of what I've spent with it lately has just been moving it out of the way of my other vehicles.
I'm still leaning towards some sort of electrical issue though, but I have no idea where to even begin.
The truck has gotten to where if it is left alone for a day or so the battery will drain. I thought maybe the battery was just on it's way out so I took one out of one of my other vehicles and installed it, and it still acts the same.
One weird thing that I've noticed though is that at idle there is a certain spot where the lights will flicker and dim, and then brighten back up it's worse right after start up, but it does it all the time. I suppose it's not that out of the ordinary being that the truck seems to have problems idling, but it still seems sortof excessive.
I've also noticed that now the pedal itself seems to be unresponsive at times. You have to push it nearly to floor before the RPM's will even come up, and when they do it will run fine...for a bit and then it's like the truck stops noticing that you're attempting to give it gas and the RPM's drop. Sometimes just letting off the pedal and then mashing it will will wake it back up, sometimes you have to key the truck off and then back on before whatever the problem is resets. That's what I am trying to find, but I don't know enough about the trucks electrical system to figure it out.
To me it seems like some sort of relay or switch that stops functioning and is only capable of function fully open or fully closed. Could it be the TPS?

 

[1992fordgreen]

Go to the pull yard and locate a PCM for your truck. Might be it... GL

Sent with my iPhone 5s

 

[2000StreetRod]

PCM swap

I think that swapping the PCM on a 2001 Explorer might be an expensive exercise. A salvage yard PCM will be set up to recognize specific ignition keys and would require dealer or a PATS capable locksmith to enable the PCM for your keys.

 

[stevechaos]

It just blows my mind. When the truck will run, it runs great, it's got plenty of power, plenty of pickup, etc. It's just getting it to GO that is the problem.
I know it has an electrical problem or two, like the lights don't always go off like they should (and are on any time the vehicle is) and the door ajar idiot light stays on. Other than that though, no issues.
Right now I'm just checking and rechecking stuff it seems.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Go back to basics and check the fuses under the hood in the power distribution box. Specifically look for fuse #13 .

 

[RomeovilleIL]

re-read your light post, not headlamp issue but interior lights. Those are all controlled by switches in the doors and rear hatch. One of them is bad leaving the system to think a door is open. Have to replace the broken one to fix that.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Go back to basics and check the fuses under the hood in the power distribution box. Specifically look for fuse #13 .

This is for driveability issue. The fuse powers a number of items including the cam position sensor and some trans controls along with the front O2 sensors. However when it is out, you wont get a CEL. Instead what you get is the engine starts and revs in park/neutral just fine. Put it in gear and it may die, have to feather the gas to get moving. Once above maybe 15 mph it will accelerate and drive, but bucks and shudders if you give it gas.

If its out, most times it blows from a worn wire on a O2 sensor intermittenly touching a heat shield or frame making it very frustrating to find the source of the short.