2001 Ford Ex sport having issues when hot

[markedman450]

I have searched around the forum but im not sure if im having the same problems as others. I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Auto with 100k miles on it. After driving for like 30 minutes, i notice that the car looses power, not like normal cause i know all cars lose a little but it keeps wanting to stay at lower rpms. And if i try to get on the gas, it will start bucking after 3500 rpms like its hitting a rev limiter. Just had it in the shop for a leak, turned out there was alot of build up in the manifolds and the pcv valve lines were blocked up with oil. So $650 later they say they cleaned it all out and its gonna run good and that problem should be gone. Well three days later i finally get to take it on a long run, and sure enough after running for over 30 minutes. I floor it going up a hill and it stars bucking at 3500 rpms and the harder i try to push it the worse it bucks. It runs fine hot just not when i try to get on it for more power...Wires, plugs all new. New pcv valve, new intake manifold gaskets. I bought a coil pack but dont wanna waste the money and time if thats not the problem. Could my coil pack just be going out when it gets hot?? Please Help

 

[markedman450]

Not the Coil pack

Well i put the coil pack on. Took it for a drive of around 30 minutes. First 20 it ran ok, just seems like its lost alot of power. But as soon as it got warmed up. And id push the gas down the car seemed like it would try to go but then just bog down a little. I tried jamming on the gas and as soon as it got above around 3.5-4k rpms it started to miss badly again. Its all the time when its hot. Going up hill, down hill, flat area, 4X4 on and off, AC on and off. It just starts having issues at hight rpms. Going down hill i just floored it and it started bucking bad past 3.5k rpms and it would keep climbing in rpms but bucking worse and worse as it climbed until it started really missing/bucking at 5k rpms... Only reason i took it to the ford dealership in the first place was because my garage said they could not work on a SOHC engine like mine because they did not have the tools. Now im fired up because Ford said they fixed it but i doubt they even took it for a drive aftewards...Any Help would be very appreciated!!

 

[Vinniety]

Well i put the coil pack on. Took it for a drive of around 30 minutes. First 20 it ran ok, just seems like its lost alot of power. But as soon as it got warmed up. And id push the gas down the car seemed like it would try to go but then just bog down a little. I tried jamming on the gas and as soon as it got above around 3.5-4k rpms it started to miss badly again. Its all the time when its hot. Going up hill, down hill, flat area, 4X4 on and off, AC on and off. It just starts having issues at hight rpms. Going down hill i just floored it and it started bucking bad past 3.5k rpms and it would keep climbing in rpms but bucking worse and worse as it climbed until it started really missing/bucking at 5k rpms... Only reason i took it to the ford dealership in the first place was because my garage said they could not work on a SOHC engine like mine because they did not have the tools. Now im fired up because Ford said they fixed it but i doubt they even took it for a drive aftewards...Any Help would be very appreciated!!

I am also troubleshooting this issue with my 2000 sport OHV motor with 103Kmiles. Do a search there is alot of things you can look at. I would try the mass air flow meter. that is the unit on the intake boot from the air cleaner. If that is dirty that can be causing it.

 

[markedman450]

If you mean the Mass air flow sensor, i unplugged it today and sprayed with with electroid cleaner the best i could. Seemed to help a little but car still gets worse and worse the longer its run after 30 minutes. Theres soo many sensors today who knows.

 

[jonafer]

Have you tried to have the cat checked by a muffler shop? This (bucking) and loss of power Is the first sigh. Try that before replacing anymore parts.

 

[Vinniety]

Have you tried to have the cat checked by a muffler shop? This (bucking) and loss of power Is the first sigh. Try that before replacing anymore parts.

I agree with Jonafer....Why dont you drive it for 30-40 minutes or until it starts the bucking and loss of power and then pull over and look under at the cats. If they are red that is a sign of clogged cat. Yes it can also be clogged with out turning red but i have been told if they are clogged they will get real hot to get it to change color to a faint red - orange. Just an idea. My problem is random maybe once every other week for a few minutes but then it runs great.

good luck

 

[markedman450]

It is the cat converter according to the dealer...problem is it has two. Im not gonna pay them to put it on, i think they already are over charging me which i should have known since its a dealer. They want $500 just for one converter plus labor..I can buy one for $250 most places around here. Anyone know a good way of figuring out which one is getting clogged. Ill drive it for an hour and look underneath to see which one is hotter if thats a good way. I do know that my cylinders 3, 5, 6 were always going through plugs especially cylinder 5 so does that lead me to one of the two i need to buy.

PS, ive replaced exaust systems in my two 93 Probe GTs and my friends Blazer...is this job gonna be much harder? Thanks for all the help.

 

[jonafer]

I would take it to a exaust shop. For around 10 bucks they will drill a small hole in the cat then insert a sensor that will tell them if thet are bad. Around here(Kentucky) cat cost about 75- 125 each at a muffler shop. Good luck and check the prices before you jump to the dealer. Also you can sell the old converters back to some shops. They have a core in them that is sold by the pound.