2002 Brake and Steering Upgrade Questions | Ford Explorer Forums

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2002 Brake and Steering Upgrade Questions

amschind

New Member
Joined
February 2, 2016
Messages
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City, State
Galveston, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 4x4 EB V6
I'm new to this forum, but I couldn't find a good thread on this from a brief search. It seems like the Gen 3 is the red-headed stepchild of the explorer group, which is sad given how many great features it brings to the table (i.e. 4 wheel independent suspension, a robust frame on body design, stout internals, sharp exterior, well fitted interior, tons of space and even more options to expand that without resorting to a trailer).

I got a 2002 4x4 Eddie Bauer 4.0L from a family member a few months ago and have been steadily replacing/upgrading as I have gone. My ultimate goal is to retrofit it as an EV with a robust "range extender", but I am going to wait until the engine and/or transmission die before undertaking that project. It is intended as an off-road vehicle whose role is to get me to rough terrain rather than pass through it; >99% of its miles will be on well paved roads. In the interim, I am doing a variety of other upgrades while I plan that project out. The brake and steering systems are proving difficult to adequately plan, and while I have only heard of the one guy doing the EV conversion, I know that there is a lot of other useful know how here. So here goes.

1. Brakes. Currently they are a bit spongy. I am replacing the factory rotors on all 4 corners with EBC dimpled/slotted rotors and the pads with green stuff pads. If anyone has a better idea or relevant experience, let me know as I haven't pulled the trigger on that yet. I would like to also replace the hoses with some variety of stainless steel, and I am curious about how to find somebody who can make/supply those parts. My more important question regards aftermarket calipers and master cylinder. I would guess that 70% of the felt benefit would come from the rotors and pads, so there may be little or no benefit from upgrading the calipers or pads. Wilwood referred me to a company called TC engineering and I will call them tomorrow and ask. If I am the first person to look into this, I'll let everyone else know what I find.

2. Steering. Currently feels no better nor worse than any other power steering system (though, as per usual, it is way better than Dodge). I have two goals here:
1. While I don't want huge tires (I am going to put 265/70R16s on in the next month) and I am not going to lift this vehicle, I don't like the steering wheel being unmanageable on dirt roads. I therefore want a steering stabilizer if I can get one.
2. With the ultimate goal EV conversion in mind, an electric power steering system seems like a more elegant solution than setting the power steering pump up on its own electric motor. The few kits that I have seen are all for cars and I would worry about using them on an off road SUV (see #1 ).

Odds are, the parts that I want simply don't exist yet, which is fine, as I expect that I will need another 3-5 years for the industry to mature before the options that I need (simple, integrate cruise control, electric steering, "range extenders" beyond repurposed motorcycle engines...looking your way, BMW) are more than $$$ custom solutions.

Anyway, there are a lot of elements in a project which I hope will come to fruition over a few years, and I may eventually make a build thread to show things off.
 



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for those severe duty pads... Be ready for LOADS of dust on your rims. They stained a set of rims on one of our cars bad. The braking wasn't any better than the akebono pads that replaced them. The akebonos have no dust and stop just as well, plus they are ceramic.
 






for those severe duty pads... Be ready for LOADS of dust on your rims. They stained a set of rims on one of our cars bad. The braking wasn't any better than the akebono pads that replaced them. The akebonos have no dust and stop just as well, plus they are ceramic.

I'd never put Ceramic on a Explorer. I have them on my turbocharged car and hate them, they don't work well in sudden stop situations as they need to be heated up before they work optimally.

That being said, do note the Motorcraft HD's I believe are Organic.

The Wagner's are Semi-Metallic. I personally feel Semi-Metallic are the best for Explorers considering it's weight and especially if you plan to do any towing and would not use anything on them but Semi-Metallic. It is the safest choice.

Organic Brake Pads

Organic brake pads (also known as NAO, or “non-asbestos organic”) were developed as an alternative to asbestos pads, composed of various fibers mixed with binding resins to hold them together. Some common materials used in organic brake pads include glass, fiber, rubber, carbon and Kevlar. The materials and tools used to manufacture organic brake pads are still the least expensive today, which is why the majority (roughly 70%) of new cars sold in the US still come with them from the factory.

Pros:
• Soft, quiet, easy on brake rotors
• Don’t require much heat to generate good friction
• Produce less dust than metallic pads
• Low manufacturing cost
• Suitable for normal driving/commuting across many environments
• Perfect for every day vehicles and drivers

Cons:
• Only operate well within a relatively limited temperature range
• Wear out quickly compared to other types of brake pads
• High compressibility – can cause “mushy” brake pedal feel
Will quickly lose their coefficient of friction when overheated
• Not at all suitable for performance driving

Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

As the name implies, semi-metallic pads contain anywhere from 30-65% metal by weight, typically consisting of steel, iron, copper, etc. combined with friction modifiers and fillers, as well as a graphite lubricant. Semi-metallic brake pads are arguably the most versatile style available, with the slight compromise being more noise and dust. They are also longer lasting and more durable, and their metallic composition can help draw heat away from the rotor and aid in more efficient brake cooling.

Pros:
Dramatically increased braking performance over organic pads
Have a much higher thermal threshold due to metallic content
Still provide good cold bite
Have a much wider operating range (temperature)
• Low compressibility – will provide a firmer brake pedal feel
Much more resistant to brake fade than organic pads
• Numerous compounds available – suitable for anything from daily street driving to extreme track use

Cons:
• Tend to be noisier than organic or ceramic pads
• Produce more brake dust
• More abrasive than other types of pads – will wear brake rotors more quickly
• More expensive than organic pads (but generally cheaper than ceramic)
• Require careful and proper bedding-in for best performance

Ceramic Brake Pads

The comparative new kid on the block is the ceramic brake pad. Ceramic pads are composed of a dense ceramic material (like pottery fired in a kiln) with embedded copper fibers. In use since the 1980s, ceramic pads were developed as an alternative replacement for organic and semi-metallic brake pads because at the time these types produced too much noise and dust. Ceramic pads are also generally easier on rotors than semi-metallic pads.

Pros:
• Quieter than semi-metallic pads – emit noises that are above the range of human hearing
• Produce finer, lighter-colored brake dust which does not stick to wheels
• Longer lifespan than organic or semi-metallic
• Stable under a wide range of temperatures for consistent performance

Cons:
• Typically the most-expensive type of brake pad
Do not produce as much cold bite as semi-metallic pads – may not be ideal in extremely cold climates
Do not absorb heat as well as semi-metallic pads which can increase brake system temperatures
• Good all-around braking characteristics but were never designed as heavy duty/racing brake pads
 






Do you have an AutoZone near you? If so, get your brake stuff there. I just did the following on my 04 4.0:

Duralast Gold Rotors (Front & Back)
Duralast Gold (ceramic) pads
Duralast Calipers

All of the duralast stuff comes with a lifetime warranty...including the pads! they told me this when i checked out. just bring back the rotors/calipers/pads when they are worn out and they give you a brand new set..for free. pretty crazy huh? they work great, and are just as good in my opinion as motorcraft PLUS the free lifetime warranty!!!
 






Do you have an AutoZone near you? If so, get your brake stuff there. I just did the following on my 04 4.0:

Duralast Gold Rotors (Front & Back)
Duralast Gold (ceramic) pads
Duralast Calipers

All of the duralast stuff comes with a lifetime warranty...including the pads! they told me this when i checked out. just bring back the rotors/calipers/pads when they are worn out and they give you a brand new set..for free. pretty crazy huh? they work great, and are just as good in my opinion as motorcraft PLUS the free lifetime warranty!!!

Duralast Gold (Ceramic) are what I have on my car and hate them.

I'd never get parts store brand calipers, 90% of the time they are Chinese.
 






Duralast Gold (Ceramic) are what I have on my car and hate them.

I'd never get parts store brand calipers, 90% of the time they are Chinese.

they seem to work fine for me so far, i have mustang wheels on my ex and they get thoroughly coated with brake dust pretty quickly since they're so open. i only use my truck to drive on the offroad beach though, so i drive about 5 miles through town at 30, then on the beach it's nothing over 5mph. more braking than anything.

lifetime warranty on everything + driving on the salty sand = good solution for me
 






they seem to work fine for me so far, i have mustang wheels on my ex and they get thoroughly coated with brake dust pretty quickly since they're so open. i only use my truck to drive on the offroad beach though, so i drive about 5 miles through town at 30, then on the beach it's nothing over 5mph. more braking than anything.

lifetime warranty on everything + driving on the salty sand = good solution for me

When trying to slow down quickly from 110mph they fade freaking fast. They are definitely not for fast performance cars and I would think this would translate to also not for towing. If you're going down a hill with a trailer and need to brake hard they are going to fade fast.
 






When trying to slow down quickly from 110mph they fade freaking fast. They are definitely not for fast performance cars and I would think this would translate to also not for towing. If you're going down a hill with a trailer and need to brake hard they are going to fade fast.

100% right. forgot the intended towing use. too excited about my new auto zone fixation lol, new one opened right by my house. no more ****ty pep boys and their ****ty parts stock never having what i need. carry on :salute:
 












You can always upgrade to Aviator brakes as they are 1" larger rotor, bigger pad and bigger Pistons. Huge performance increase! Check out my link in my signature. I would stay away from drilled or slotted rotors as they offer zero performance increase, unless you like how they look. They have less surface area and are more prone to cracking. They are only sold as people think they look cool. Look at race cars, they all have plain rotors. They were originally designed for 1960s era asbestos pads.
FYI you have no way to mount nor need a steering stabilizer as the explorer has rack and pinion steering. You might want to check the steering tie rod end links for play as that might be your issue or check out how it is mounted to the frame( might be loose).

Enjoy!

-Scott
 






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