2004 4.0 vin k motor swap with 2003 vin k 4.0 HELP | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2004 4.0 vin k motor swap with 2003 vin k 4.0 HELP

I just stuffed a 2002 engine into my 2004 Mountaineer. You can use the harmonic balancer and crank sensor from the old engine and the flywheel, so no need to remove that stuff. You will just need the intake from your 04 to keep the throttle by wire, and you will have to use the fuel rail and injectors from the 04 as they are different. Other "gotchas" included the alternator bracket and alternator, while they look similar, you will need your old one as the wiring and mounting bolt spacing is a bit different. Everything else just plugged right in, to include adding an oil cooler where I didn't have one before. You can use any SOHC in long block form, just might need to use more of your old accessories. As a note, I have always heard that the 2wd did not have a balance shaft, however the one I got from a 2wd Explorer did in fact have a balance shaft and was the original engine to that truck. I wouldn't worry so much about that though as even without that shaft, they are not that bad.
 



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Breather box delete?

I ended up finding a 98 4.0 SOHC vin E from a pick n pull in pristine condition. I am now having an issue with the breather box on top of the block, how do I delete this or is there any way to repair a broken one? Stupid me was pulling up on it not knowing what it was. Should i be able to just pull it out and replace it with one from the pick and pull? When i do fix it, since my 2004 was not equipped with the vacuum lines for it what will happen to the vacuum lines currently on the breather box? will i just let them hang out behind the motor blowing into abyss? HELP!!!
 






remove from the 2004

I'm not familiar with the 2004 configuration. Whatever is plugged into the breather hole needs to be removed from the 2004 and installed on the 1998. There may be a freeze plug installed which means you'll need a new one. You have to make your 1998 look like the original configuration of the 2004.
 






What is this breather box? You have to use your valve covers and intake as the ones from the 98 will be different. got a pic?
 






breather box

It is a crankcase breather that connects to the PCV valve.
breather.jpg
 






That looks like it will be in the way. If its where I think it is, there is just a plug there on the later 4.0's.
 






I just looked at my old 04 block. It looks like a freeze plug installed where that thing appears to be.
 






Just about had a heart attack when i heard a little crunch when trying to remove it. Sounds like this "freeze plug" is good news for me. How easy is it to remove the current breather box and install a freeze plug? In addition to this annoying breather box issue there is a sensor going in to the oil pan. I am assuming that this is an oil level sensor... my 2004 does not have this and will need to be deleted as well, any tips other than just leaving it in the oil pan and since I don't have a plug on the harness neglect it?

Thanks again everybody for chiming in, it is all very useful stuff!! :salute:

Again, the good block and heads is out of a 98 4.0 SOHC vin E going into a 2004 4.0 SOHC flex fuel model.
 






You could pull the sensor and match the threads at the hardware store to a bolt, then seal it up. Does the 04 engine not have that place drilled and tapped? I would be tempted to just leave the sensor there if you have clearance. You can probably pry that box right out and driving in a new freeze plug isn't hard provided you have the right size plug and a tool to smack them in with. A pipe of the correct size can work. I don't know if it is in your plans or not, but I would seriously consider throwing a timing chain set on that 98 engine first while you have it out. I can tell you from experience that going through and engine swap only to hear a noise requiring the engine to come back out really sucks. Plus the engines prior to 2002 had the worst of the timing components.
 






Will the 98 flexplate from the same block work with my 2004 transmission? If not, will removing the flexplate mess up the timing? I would use an impact gun but is there anything i should be weary of?
 












shouldn't mess with anything. Not sure about the impact, I just used a breaker bar on mine, but I didn't have an impact at the time.

So do you know if my 98 flexplate will work on a 2004 transmission? I couldnt get the bolts off so decided to gamble it. I did a lot of measuring and found out that the they are almost identical with every dimension. The only thing that was a little different was the plate on the 98 was about 1/8" fatter than the 2004.
 






In addition to the flexplate question...

The motor is being temperamental and doesn't want to line up with the transmission. I can only get it about an inch away from lining up flush... I have read that the torque converter could've been tweaked some how. I however think that this is extremely unlikely because i am just simply having problems aligning the ****.
 






different flexplate

Rock Auto shows one flexplate for the 2nd generation and a different one from the same manufacturer (Pioneer) for the 3rd generation.

Count the number of teeth in the ring gear for each one and compare. If the flexplate ring gear is offset between the two the starter may hang on the flexplate or not fully engage.

Why can't you get the flexplates off both engines?
 






I remember reading that the flexplates were NOT compatible between the 2nd and 3rd gens. I would swap them. These really stink to get lined up to a trans. I used three people. I was laying underneath wrestling while two friends operated the hoist and jockeyed the engine around. Once you get it right, there will be about a quarter inch that the torque converter will pull back towards the flexplate when you throw the nuts on it. Getting the engine to "marry" the trans was easily the worst part of my 3rd gen engine swap.
 






I had the same problem when lining up the transmission to block. I took a couple of old bolts, cut the heads off of them, and used the remainder as a guide pin. I even went as far as to grind the roughly cut "stud" into a taper, and used a sawzall to cut a screwdriver slot in it. (After everything went together, the studs easily backed right out, didn't need the slots, but I was kinda proud of them, and how much easier everything went).
 












Merry Christmas to y'all! Now that the family festivities have died off i will be attempting this again.

Before I stopped i figured out that the motor mounts needed to come off and i loosened the transmission mount so i have an extra couple centimeters - inch of wiggle room.

I have tried the guide pins with out much luck but will give another whack at it because i have to pull off the flexplate and swap it with the 2004.

Thanks again for the tips guys, wish I would have chose an "easy" motor to fix.
 






If your inch gap between the engine and transmission is equal all the way around. Otherwise you have proper alignment between the two. It sounds like either your flex plate is not correct or more than likely your torque converter is not fully seated. What ever you do don't force the two together with the bolts. You will be looking for a replacement transmission to mate that replacement engine.
 



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The driveshaft is easy to pull and the trans mount bolts can be removed and allow you to move it around for better angles also. I had these loose on my AWD engine swap. That flexplate could very well be your issue as stated above.
 






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