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2005 XLS w/o Cruise Control?
- Thread starter Oliveras
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429CJ-3X2
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Did you have to change or modify the cover below the air bag to make room for the switches? There's not much of a gap between the air bag and cover on my truck.
Oliveras
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Yes, you have to use a sharp knife or snips.
Caution: Do not overcut. It will leave a gap, better to undercut and have slight tilt which will give a more flush look finish.
Good Luck,
Caution: Do not overcut. It will leave a gap, better to undercut and have slight tilt which will give a more flush look finish.
Good Luck,
429CJ-3X2
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I went to the salvage yard today, and got the module, cable, and switches. The switches are from a '98 Ex, which should be correct. I didn't get the module and cable from the '01 Sport I saw Wed, because the Job 1 engines like this Sport use a longer cable that loops around to the driver's side of the engine. The Job 2 engines, like my truck, use a shorter cable that runs to the passenger's side of the engine. The cc modules have the same part # - both have the 1L5F-9C734-AA # on the top side, and 1L5F-9C735-AA on the bottom. Other #s on the bottom differ, but could just be lot #s, etc. However, the Job 1 and Job 2 modules seem to have a different orientation inside where the cable assembly connects. Fortunately, they got another '01 Sport in since Wed with a Job 2 engine, so I took the module and cable from it. I didn't get the clock spring simply because I haven't had time to dig out my steering wheel puller. Since I have to pull the steering wheel I might take the cover & paint it black rather than trim mine.
I took the ribbon wires and horn switches with the cc switches, just to be sure.
I'm not sure you want to know what I paid.
I took the ribbon wires and horn switches with the cc switches, just to be sure.
I'm not sure you want to know what I paid.
429CJ-3X2
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The module, cable, master cylinder switch, cc switches with ribbon wire and horn switches = $23.23 + tax
Also got 2 complete fog light assemblies with mounting brackets for $21.18 + tax, bringing today's total to $47.09. I did have to take everything off myself, but that was no big deal. And I think the 2nd Sport I took the parts from must have been parked in a hog lot, based on the smell.
Also got 2 complete fog light assemblies with mounting brackets for $21.18 + tax, bringing today's total to $47.09. I did have to take everything off myself, but that was no big deal. And I think the 2nd Sport I took the parts from must have been parked in a hog lot, based on the smell.
429CJ-3X2
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Correction to the last post!!! Sport Tracs and '01-'03 Sports use clock spring #1L5Z-14A664-AB as Oliveras said, not the F8... Believe it or not, the compatibility charts on the interweb are wrong. The noticeable difference is the connector that plugs into the airbag. The brown plug on F87Z-14A664-CC will not plug into the Sport/Sport Trac airbag. You need the gray plug. I knew that, but forgot until I was taking a 2nd one out. (I have 2 STs, and I was going to get a clock spring for each of them.)
1L5Z-14A664-AB looks to have been superceded by part # 5L5Z14A664A.
If you go to get a clock spring from the salvage yard, DO NOT CUT THE WIRES like I did. I rarely do that, but I thought the wires disconnected at the clock spring. They do not. You have to remove the plastic and metal lower dash covers to get to the connectors. Also do not take a clock spring from a truck that has deployed the air bag. I'm not positive, but I think the clock spring is no good after air bag deployment. The air bags in my '01 deployed before I got it, and neither the horn or cruise control work. As I've been researching parts for this project, I've come across threads that suggest the clock spring is potentially the problem. May not be related to air bag deployment, but why take a chance.
1L5Z-14A664-AB looks to have been superceded by part # 5L5Z14A664A.
If you go to get a clock spring from the salvage yard, DO NOT CUT THE WIRES like I did. I rarely do that, but I thought the wires disconnected at the clock spring. They do not. You have to remove the plastic and metal lower dash covers to get to the connectors. Also do not take a clock spring from a truck that has deployed the air bag. I'm not positive, but I think the clock spring is no good after air bag deployment. The air bags in my '01 deployed before I got it, and neither the horn or cruise control work. As I've been researching parts for this project, I've come across threads that suggest the clock spring is potentially the problem. May not be related to air bag deployment, but why take a chance.
429CJ-3X2
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I'm posting my experience just to help anyone after us. If only 1 person (you) added cruise, it could be a fluke. If both of us do it, using different sources, it may seem more doable to the next guy.
I think I'll just buy a new clock spring since the yard I go to doesn't get the right trucks in very often. That will eliminate the real possibility of getting a bad one from the salvage yard.
I think I'll just buy a new clock spring since the yard I go to doesn't get the right trucks in very often. That will eliminate the real possibility of getting a bad one from the salvage yard.
429CJ-3X2
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SUCCESS!! My 2002 ST, which originally had no options, NOW HAS CRUISE CONTROL!!!!! Just in time for a 250 mile round trip for a family reunion this weekend! And my horn now works. Thank you, Oliveras!
I ended up buying a new clock spring off ebay for $85, and new cruise control switches with the ribbon wire off ebay for $88.95. I also got the cover that goes on the back side of the steering wheel from one of the Sports with cruise at the salvage yard for $5.62 & painted it black, to keep from cutting mine to make room for the switches. As I said before, I got the cruise control module with cable, a like-new, updated master cylinder switch, and cc switches that turned out to be junk, all for $23.23 + tax. Add $15 for a steering wheel puller (orig. $19, but I had a coupon). Total cost was $217.80, plus a little bit of sales tax. More than I had hoped to spend, but within reason. The trip to the family reunion this weekend was a factor in buying new parts rather than taking longer and sourcing used parts. If I had taken my time & gone with all used parts, I probably could have done it for $100 or less.
The under hood parts - module, cable, and master cylinder switch can be installed in 15 minutes. The biggest part of the job is changing the clock spring. You have to pull the steering wheel to get to the clock spring, and remove the lower dash covers to get to the wiring connectors and pull/run the wires. You also have to pop the ignition switch (easy) to uninstall/install one of the wires. If your steering wheel puller has 2 spacers, like mine from Advance Auto, use the longer spacer as the puller will bottom out with the short spacer before the wheel pops loose. While you have the wheel off, turn it over and take the back cover off, run the ribbon wire and install the switches. Check the horn switches at this time too. The end pieces that the air bag pushes against should be covered in plastic, not be bare metal or broken plastic. Without the plastic intact, the air bag won't push the switch far enough to make contact and your horn won't work. The horn switches can be taken off, flipped over and swapped to the other side. Important tip - when you get everything else back together and are reinstalling the air bag, pay close attention to where the ribbon wire is. The right side in particular tends to end up where it can be pinched by the bolt for the air bag.
This is really not a difficult project. It just requires basic tools- a Phillips screwdriver, 7 and 8 mm sockets - along with a steering wheel puller (mine required a 17mm socket), a #50 Torx bit for the steering wheel bolt, and a #20 (or 15?) Torx bit for 1 screw.
I ended up buying a new clock spring off ebay for $85, and new cruise control switches with the ribbon wire off ebay for $88.95. I also got the cover that goes on the back side of the steering wheel from one of the Sports with cruise at the salvage yard for $5.62 & painted it black, to keep from cutting mine to make room for the switches. As I said before, I got the cruise control module with cable, a like-new, updated master cylinder switch, and cc switches that turned out to be junk, all for $23.23 + tax. Add $15 for a steering wheel puller (orig. $19, but I had a coupon). Total cost was $217.80, plus a little bit of sales tax. More than I had hoped to spend, but within reason. The trip to the family reunion this weekend was a factor in buying new parts rather than taking longer and sourcing used parts. If I had taken my time & gone with all used parts, I probably could have done it for $100 or less.
The under hood parts - module, cable, and master cylinder switch can be installed in 15 minutes. The biggest part of the job is changing the clock spring. You have to pull the steering wheel to get to the clock spring, and remove the lower dash covers to get to the wiring connectors and pull/run the wires. You also have to pop the ignition switch (easy) to uninstall/install one of the wires. If your steering wheel puller has 2 spacers, like mine from Advance Auto, use the longer spacer as the puller will bottom out with the short spacer before the wheel pops loose. While you have the wheel off, turn it over and take the back cover off, run the ribbon wire and install the switches. Check the horn switches at this time too. The end pieces that the air bag pushes against should be covered in plastic, not be bare metal or broken plastic. Without the plastic intact, the air bag won't push the switch far enough to make contact and your horn won't work. The horn switches can be taken off, flipped over and swapped to the other side. Important tip - when you get everything else back together and are reinstalling the air bag, pay close attention to where the ribbon wire is. The right side in particular tends to end up where it can be pinched by the bolt for the air bag.
This is really not a difficult project. It just requires basic tools- a Phillips screwdriver, 7 and 8 mm sockets - along with a steering wheel puller (mine required a 17mm socket), a #50 Torx bit for the steering wheel bolt, and a #20 (or 15?) Torx bit for 1 screw.
429CJ-3X2
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Almost a year later and I need to correct myself again! I recently bought a steering wheel and column from a 2002 ST with plans to swap the good parts into my '01 (airbags blew before I got it) to regain CC and horn. The clockspring from that column is part # 1L5T-14A664-AB. I was looking online to price a new clockspring before I put this one in, and it seems the part # must end in AB for cruise control. Without the B, it's a non-cruise clockspring.
When I bought the "new" parts for the '01, I mentioned my theory about the clockspring being damaged when the airbag deploys. The guy selling the parts is a mechanic, but he said a friend who has a body shop told him he always replaces the clockspring when he repairs a car in which the airbag has deployed.
When I bought the "new" parts for the '01, I mentioned my theory about the clockspring being damaged when the airbag deploys. The guy selling the parts is a mechanic, but he said a friend who has a body shop told him he always replaces the clockspring when he repairs a car in which the airbag has deployed.
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