2006 Explorer hole in valve cover —- urgent responses | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2006 Explorer hole in valve cover —- urgent responses

Joined
April 9, 2016
Messages
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City, State
Chicago
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Explorer V6 XLT
hi, my truck was leaking oil so I had gasket replaced and took the car for drive. My university is 40miles, as I reached university I heard loud noises from engine bay. I opened the hood and saw hole in my valve cover making loud noise . I did drove the car back 40 miles to Machenic. They refused that any of gasket replacement can cause this. All experienced and senior explorers please see for yourself and advise.

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Is the V6 an interference engine?
 






Was it running ok? The timing should be off if there is internal damage. Was the power ok?
 
























I retract my earlier question - the OP drove the vehicle 40 miles so that would pretty much point to a non-interference engine.
From my limited experience with shops - this is the way things work these days. Shops don't do major engine repairs - I don't blame them really. They pull a motor, rebuild it, put it back in and assume all the responsibility. Or, they replace the motor which means they pull the old one and put the new one back in. Same as before - but no rebuild by them thus no responsibility on them.
In this case, I see that the motor has to be pulled for complete timing component replacement. And being put back in by the shop.
You see where I'm going.
You will probably be looking at a motor replacement.

If you are very handy you can pull it and fix it yourself as there is probably no permanent damage.
 






I retract my earlier question - the OP drove the vehicle 40 miles so that would pretty much point to a non-interference engine.
From my limited experience with shops - this is the way things work these days. Shops don't do major engine repairs - I don't blame them really. They pull a motor, rebuild it, put it back in and assume all the responsibility. Or, they replace the motor which means they pull the old one and put the new one back in. Same as before - but no rebuild by them thus no responsibility on them.
In this case, I see that the motor has to be pulled for complete timing component replacement. And being put back in by the shop.
You see where I'm going.
You will probably be looking at a motor replacement.

If you are very handy you can pull it and fix it yourself as there is probably no permanent damage.
The front left cassette can be changed with the motor in the vehicle. That site I posted has some pointers.
 






The front left cassette can be changed with the motor in the vehicle. That site I posted has some pointers.
Sure - but would you just do the front after a failure like that? The rear is ripe for replacement also and we know what that means.
 






Sure - but would you just do the front after a failure like that? The rear is ripe for replacement also and we know what that means.
I mean it sure would be a LOT cheaper. If it goes another 50k(witch is very possible) on the same rear then I would.
 






$500 to $1000 $1500 tops versus $4000-$5000 to take it out and rebuild.
 






The 4.0 sohc is an interference engine. As long as it's still running the valves should be good. Once it stops plan on pulling the engine.
 






How many miles does your odometer show?
 






If you want to drive it go ahead and do the front timing set and get a valve cover. I can't remember if the cassette comes off first or the jackshaft chain. If its the earlier than you can get away without timing the entire engine. Not sure how long before the rear goes, they you have to pull the engine.

Most shops around here won't touch em, and will tell you to drop in one from a wrecker, as they are plentiful.
 






I got it repaired !! 680$ and also replaced with timing chain complete set including new tentioners. Will drive and update if any thing goes right or left. Still quite when idle but next week I have some long runs.
 






I imagine they only replaced the front chain and tensioner. Replacing the rear chain alone would cost more than that just in labor
 



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So you guys are suggesting that it won’t be effective what ever work was done? Without rear chain replacement ? Can anyone share rear chain diagram ?
 






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