2006 V8 Cracked Radiator

[Mark5767]

Started to lose coolant and noticed a puddle.

After borrowing a pressure tester from OReilly Auto (thanks guys) I found the source of the leak.

This is just under the reservoir at the very top of the radiator. The crack is about 3 inches long.

This is a 2006 V8 with 115k miles.

Does this mean for sure a new radiator or do I have any other options?

Since it's the top I wonder if it could be patched with some sort of epoxy or something.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[96743explorer]

how'd it end up cracking from the top like that? id say to buy a new one. patching is only temporary, and from the pressure a radiator holds who knows how long a patch will last?

 

[Mark5767]

I think maybe just age and the constant heating/cooling cycle may have cracked the plastic, I'm not sure. I live in Minnesota so the temperature can go from -20 to 200 degrees in the winter (the radiator temp that is).

I will probably replace it, although there was at least one interesting plastic repair technique/product I saw...

Youtube Demo

UrethaneSupply.com

This looks interesting in that it melts and attempts to bond with the plastic instead of just glue. It seems like plastic is super specific when it comes to bonding with adhesives and radiator plastic is sort of a high temperature nylon?

Anyway, thanks for your response, I guess I'm lucky to get 115k out of the radiator, sounds like this part has had some issues!

 

[mgmgmg]

I would use that product! That video was wonderful...If so pls update us on it.....Pray for some early snow!!

 

[Flag Gibby]

Like was mentioned above, you don't patch these radiators your best bet given the conditions you drive in is to replace it with an all aluminum radiator so you don't have to worry about the difference in expansion/contraction characteristics of two different materials.

 

[Explorer_PL]

I replaced mine on 06 v8 at about 150k miles.
You can get them from about $ 190 on the web.

 

[Mark5767]

Thanks for the replies!

I'm leaning toward having a local shop install a new radiator, I wonder if I should ask about the replacement brand, for example is the Spectra 2816 better than a cheaper brand?

I see some pretty good tips on replacing radiators, but this job might be a little beyond my current level of patience!

This has been a pretty good truck over the past 7 years or so. I also should have the brakes done this year and my other concern is the truck seems a little sluggish acceleration wise. I should probably start a new thread on that though! Thanks again!

 

[Explorer_PL]

I have spectra 2816, it's been good so far for the past 16k miles.

It's not too complicated of a job, but the access and is pretty bad. Took me about 3 hrs, while other cars would take an hour (my old Ford Escort).

 

[Ornery]

There's a lot of improvements to like about modern vehicles, but plastic radiators ain't one of 'em!

I'm sure your mechanic can recommend a reliable alternative to the several hundred dollar OEM part.

As far as being sluggish, start with normal maintenance items, like filters, plugs, and clean the MAF sensor wires. Check for obvious vacuum leaks. No wasted money that way. If it still isn't performing right, have your mechanic give it a look on a scope, maybe smoke test and compression check.

 

[Bobmbx]

I've been driving around for about 2 years with a hole in the top of my radiator. No pressure, nor do I have a cooling problem. Winter, summer, AC on, hot days....never seen the gauge move above normal.

Why? Don't feel like paying hundreds of dollars for a new radiator thats just gonna fail in a year or so. The 2006s' are notorious for bad rads.

 

[Mark5767]

I've been driving around for about 2 years with a hole in the top of my radiator. No pressure, nor do I have a cooling problem. Winter, summer, AC on, hot days....never seen the gauge move above normal.

Why? Don't feel like paying hundreds of dollars for a new radiator thats just gonna fail in a year or so. The 2006s' are notorious for bad rads.

Wow, thanks Bobmbx

If you don't mind can you please share a little more detail on the size and shape and location of the "hole." I ask because mine is just a crack and if I can put off this repair for a while that might be a good thing.

I have lost around 3 quarts of coolant in the past month or so, do you know how much coolant you go through?

I'm guessing once it reaches a certain level it stabilizes and you don't lose too much.

Also I would think you wouldn't want to really stress the engine with heavy towing uphill or something like that. Good luck in any case!

Thanks again, good to know it's likely not a catastrophic failure!

 

[Bobmbx]

Mark,

The hole in my rad is right at the top somewhere (I've never actually seen it). If I fill the rad and the overflow to spec, I leak coolant for a couple of weeks, about 10 drops overnight, until the overflow is empty and the level in the rad gets below the hole. The level stabilizes about 1/2 inch below the inside top of the radiator.

I don't tow or horse around...I'm the guy who drives 4 mph over the limit on cruise control.....yeah, I'm old.

If you do any heavy duty driving I'd recommend dropping in a new radiator.

 

[Mark5767]

Got it, thanks Bobmbx!

I tend to drive my truck pretty hard, I really wish it had better acceleration, this is my main gripe with this Explorer so I rev it pretty high.

I have not noticed it getting hot at all, but I do tow occasionally so a new radiator is probably the way to go.

Need to find a 16 psi cap that will fit, hopefully that will help reduce pressure on the new radiator (currently has 20 psi cap).

Also, I need to post a thread on possible ways to coax some more giddy up from this truck, I know it's old but it just doesn't seem to have the power it should for a V8.

Thanks again!

 

[96743explorer]

the YouTube demo video showed a radiator over flow tank being welded. Not an actual radiator which will be under pressure once hot. The over flow tank isn't pressurized.

 

[Flag Gibby]

Got it, thanks Bobmbx!

I tend to drive my truck pretty hard, I really wish it had better acceleration, this is my main gripe with this Explorer so I rev it pretty high.

I have not noticed it getting hot at all, but I do tow occasionally so a new radiator is probably the way to go.

Need to find a 16 psi cap that will fit, hopefully that will help reduce pressure on the new radiator (currently has 20 psi cap).

Also, I need to post a thread on possible ways to coax some more giddy up from this truck, I know it's old but it just doesn't seem to have the power it should for a V8.

Thanks again!

In your case your radiator is cracked all the way through for the whole 3" and losing a significant amount of coolant. A temporary fix may end up completely blowing out and costing you an engine and the expense of having it towed to a repair shop which will be a lot more than the $300 to replace the radiator. If you go with a good radiator a lower pressure cap is not necessary for longevity, but I would purchase a new cap for the new radiator since the caps do go bad and stop opening like they should resulting in excess pressure buildup.
In terms of more power out of the engine you can purchase a tuner like the SCT to get a little more out of the engine, but you really won't get much more than about +11 Hp and +15 Tq. Also, clean the MAF sensor and throttle body if the response of the engine seems sluggish and it wasn't that way when you originally purchased it.

 

[Mark5767]

Thanks Flag, sounds like some really good advice!

I wonder if I should ask the shop about upgrading the radiator to all aluminum. Also I will look into the SCT tuner, MAF sensor and throttle body cleaning.

In your opinion is a K&N CAI upgrade worth the $$? Looks like this runs about $330 or so, not exactly super cheap. Thanks again!

 

[Ornery]

Debunking the K&N Myth – Why OEM is Better​

 

[Flag Gibby]

Don't go the CAI route since the factory box is already a CAI setup (pulls cold air from the front of the vehicle not hot air from inside the engine compartment). A $50.00 drop in K&N filter is all you really need in order to get better airflow at high RPMs.
A Silla radiator #2559A which I priced at about $150.00 has a lifetime warrantee on it so I see no need to go the all aluminum route.

 

[Mark5767]

Thanks guys, that helps quite a bit!

Flag, I think I can handle the MAF and throttle body cleaning, but the SCT tuner I am not so sure of. I looked on their site and got the SCT SF3 Power Flash Ford Program but then it said search for a local dealer. Is that the only way to obtain the tuning unit?

Also there was no pricing, I suppose I need to call the dealer for that but it looked like a pretty serious perfomance shop, I don't want them laughing at me!

Thanks again!

 

[Markaprice73]

My Fathers 07 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 has the EXACT same crack. Same place, same length. 90K (for a temporary fix) We gooped on three layers of JB Weld. Let it cure for 24 hours. It's been holding for three days now. I think the package said for up to 500F degrees. He drove across country like this.(with the crack) Reservoir was very very low. But not empty. He was adding a quart of distilled water every other day this week until I had a chance to find that leak. But the resovoir never fully runs empty. Even the rad stays practically full. It just dribbles out the top until it's just below the top of the rad. His coolant temp never goes over 200F.(scanguage II) Weird. Lucky place to have it crack I guess.
Just waiting for the new radiator. Went ahead and ordered a new cap, thermostat, thermostat O ring, transmission fill plug adapter, 1 qt trans fluid, (anticipating a little trans fluid loss when changing rad) and 2 gal coolant. All for around $250. Rad was $152 on Amazon. All Motorcraft parts and fluids. Except for Rad.(Spectra)(lifetime warranty) Better than over $1200 at dealer for radiator replacement only. Ford radiator is $500-$600.

You can try the JB Weld for a temporary fix. I read somewhere though to properly JB Weld it you should drill a hole at both ends of the crack to help prevent the crack from getting longer.
Anyway, I recommend replacement.