2006 V8 Explorer-Need to replace torque converter, anything else?

[UnorthodoxCreat]

I have a 2006 Explorer Limited with V8 and just shy of 150,000 miles. I'm pretty sure it needs the torque converter replaced as I'm getting a consistent shutter when cruising around 1,700 rpms. Very consistent to what I experienced with my 2017 Transit but that was replaced under warranty. I'd love to upgrade vehicles to a 2018 Expedition or F150 but I refuse to pay the crazy prices vehicles are bringing now. All of that to say it looks I'll be taking this job soon. While I'm at it, should I be replacing anything else? I plan on a new trans filter and of course fluid. Just trying to get another year or 2 out of this vehicle.

 

[07EddyB]

By shutter do you mean like you're running over the rumble strips on the edge of the road? If it's happening around the 45MPH mark in overdrive then the next time it happens turn overdrive off and see if that fixes it.
I had the above - a pan drop and filter change cured it completely. Others have had it and solved it by replacing the plugs and coils. The key is does it only do it when you are lugging the engine - running in overdrive at a lower speed and giving it gas.
If so - look into those things before you pull the transmission.

 

[UnorthodoxCreat]

By shutter do you mean like you're running over the rumble strips on the edge of the road? If it's happening around the 45MPH mark in overdrive then the next time it happens turn overdrive off and see if that fixes it.
I had the above - a pan drop and filter change cured it completely. Others have had it and solved it by replacing the plugs and coils. The key is does it only do it when you are lugging the engine - running in overdrive at a lower speed and giving it gas.
If so - look into those things before you pull the transmission.

At first I was just seeing the tach jump about 250 rpms with regularity when cruising. It only does it under light throttle, kind of the opposite of bad coils or plugs. My coils and plugs were all replaced last year because I was getting misfires under load. Definitely does it in 5th and 6th gear. Not sure about 4th gear but I think so.

 

[94Eddie]

I have a 2006 Explorer Limited with V8 and just shy of 150,000 miles. I'm pretty sure it needs the torque converter replaced as I'm getting a consistent shutter when cruising around 1,700 rpms. Very consistent to what I experienced with my 2017 Transit but that was replaced under warranty. I'd love to upgrade vehicles to a 2018 Expedition or F150 but I refuse to pay the crazy prices vehicles are bringing now. All of that to say it looks I'll be taking this job soon. While I'm at it, should I be replacing anything else? I plan on a new trans filter and of course fluid. Just trying to get another year or 2 out of this vehicle.

The 6R60/6R80 transmissions are very picky about fluid quality and fluid level. If a pan drop, filter replacement and refill has never been done to your knowledge then I would start with this before assuming the worst. If this helps then do another pan drop and refill over the next 3k miles to get the bulk of the old fluid out of the transmission. Also, bad or non OEM coils can cause issues with the transmission wiring harness communicating with the PCM on the passenger side cylinder bank. This can cause a multitude of symptoms. I bought my Mountaineer with a little over 100k miles and it had shifting issues. Once I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery for an hour the problems disappeared. I followed up with a quick pan drop and refill to get most of the old fluid out. Also, you might want to reset the PCM and see if this helps any since it is easy to do.

 

[UnorthodoxCreat]

The 6R60/6R80 transmissions are very picky about fluid quality and fluid level. If a pan drop, filter replacement and refill has never been done to your knowledge then I would start with this before assuming the worst. If this helps then do another pan drop and refill over the next 3k miles to get the bulk of the old fluid out of the transmission. Also, bad or non OEM coils can cause issues with the transmission wiring harness communicating with the PCM on the passenger side cylinder bank. This can cause a multitude of symptoms. I bought my Mountaineer with a little over 100k miles and it had shifting issues. Once I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and reset the PCM by disconnecting the battery for an hour the problems disappeared. I followed up with a quick pan drop and refill to get most of the old fluid out. Also, you might want to reset the PCM and see if this helps any since it is easy to do.

I'll try a new filter and fluid tomorrow and go from there since that is ready and cheap. I doubt they've ever been changed. I've had it since about 80,000 miles I think. Didn't do much towing with it at first but last year I got a boat that was about 3000 lbs with trailer and this year I upgraded to a boat that's about 4500 with trailer and I tow that a couple times a year.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

All great advice above.. And for your 6R60 trans, use Mercon SP only. Nothing else.

 

[94Eddie]

All great advice above.. And for your 6R60 trans, use Mercon SP only. Nothing else.

Bill, I am curious about the Mercon SP recommendation. Is that only for the 6R60 or the 6R80 too? The Ford dealer told me that Mercon LV was the proper fluid to use in my 6R80.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Yes, SP for the 6R60 and LV for the 6R80.

 

[UnorthodoxCreat]

So I did a filter change with about 7 new qts of fluid. It's better but certainly not fixed. I'm going to run it for now versus putting in a new torque converter. I really don't feel like doing that job or paying to have it done. My drive to work is only about 10 minutes and we can take my wife's car for further trips. I loved this vehicle till about the past year where it always seems to be something wrong. I wish I could buy a F150 for what my dad and father in law paid for their's 2 years ago but I refuse to pay $10K more for the same truck until I have to.

 

[94Eddie]

Did you clear the PCM by disconnecting the battery for 30-60 minutes?

 

[Explorer_PL]

Coming late to the thread, but I'd do rear seal as well with the tranny out.

 

[UnorthodoxCreat]

Did you clear the PCM by disconnecting the battery for 30-60 minutes?

I did not originally clear the PCM because I was lazy and skeptical it would make a difference but I unplugged the battery for a little bit on Sat and much to my surprise it seems much better now. My drive to work is short so I've only made those drives plus one other 1 hour trip but I'd say it seems 95% or greater fixed now. I can't get it shudder. I can see the tach moving a little bit under steady speeds but that might be something else. I suspect I may have an intake manifold leak that I need to address.

 

[94Eddie]

I did not originally clear the PCM because I was lazy and skeptical it would make a difference but I unplugged the battery for a little bit on Sat and much to my surprise it seems much better now. My drive to work is short so I've only made those drives plus one other 1 hour trip but I'd say it seems 95% or greater fixed now. I can't get it shudder. I can see the tach moving a little bit under steady speeds but that might be something else. I suspect I may have an intake manifold leak that I need to address.

The 4th gens have a strong adaptive learning strategy for the six speed transmissions. This is why it is important to clear out the learned history so the PCM can re-adapt to the new conditions. I strongly suggest doing another pan drop and refil (a filter change isn't necessary) l to get more of the old transmission fluid out. Right now you are only at about a 50/50 mix of old and new fluid. This might get you to the 100% fixed mark while improving long term reliability for the transmission. Another way to go about a fluid swap without doing a pan drop is to try using suction via the filler plug. Suck out as much fluid as you can and refill.