2015 XLT - Securicode / Remote Keypad panel issue

[MWright]

I have a 2015 Ford Explorer XLT. A few months back, we noticed that the remote panel on the driver door was flashing randomly and some time later, the car battery completely died. We replaced the battery and within a week the new battery was dead. Charging only lasted for so long, though the battery is new and tested fine. Something keeps draining the battery but can’t figure out what. The remote keypad no longer lights up at all and wondering if it could be related. We have had the alternator tested as well and it is fine. at the same time, the vehicle no longer goes over 80mph (throttles down at 80) which makes me think the computer reset the MyKey. All are stumped on what to do. Anyone experienced similar issues? As for the key, We bought after market and it appears didn’t get the master key and will need to get a new one.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
One thing you didn't mention is if the Securicode panel is still working. Did it come loose?

Peter

 

[MWright]

Welcome to the Forum.
One thing you didn't mention is if the Securicode panel is still working. Did it come loose?

Peter

Hello! Thank you for the welcome. Apologies, when referring to “remote keypad” in my post, I was referring to what I assume you are calling the “securicode panel”. It is not working - no lights/indication at all when pressing the buttons. I actually never used that feature so I couldn’t say when it went out. Other than knowing it was some time after the random flashing mentioned above. Today, we hooked a meter to the battery to get a sense of what the resting ampage was and then worked to remove fuses one at a time to attempt to see which component might be the culprit. Pulling fuse 18 resulted in a huge reduction in amps, but based on the owners manual that particular fuse is tied to several components including the keypad illumination and more.

 

[Michael Blackburn]

A flashing Securicode Panel is usually an indication that water has gotten into the panel and it is shorting out. The battery ends up draining since the panel is constantly drawing power.
You can check this by removing the door panel and disconnecting the panel, checking if the amp draw reduces.
Not an uncommon failure.

 

[MWright]

A flashing Securicode Panel is usually an indication that water has gotten into the panel and it is shorting out. The battery ends up draining since the panel is constantly drawing power.
You can check this by removing the door panel and disconnecting the panel, checking if the amp draw reduces.
Not an uncommon failure.

Thank you, Michael. We can’t find any videos or tutorials on how to remove the door panel on our model. It’s proven to be quite difficult to remove. You wouldn’t happen to have any information on that would you? Also, I’ve read that the securipanel and the key fobs are linked - any idea if we could still use our key fob for locking/unlocking if we keep the securipanel disconnected? 2015 Explorer XLT

 

[peterk9]

Hello! Thank you for the welcome. Apologies, when referring to “remote keypad” in my post, I was referring to what I assume you are calling the “securicode panel”. It is not working - no lights/indication at all when pressing the buttons. I actually never used that feature so I couldn’t say when it went out. Other than knowing it was some time after the random flashing mentioned above. Today, we hooked a meter to the battery to get a sense of what the resting ampage was and then worked to remove fuses one at a time to attempt to see which component might be the culprit. Pulling fuse 18 resulted in a huge reduction in amps, but based on the owners manual that particular fuse is tied to several components including the keypad illumination and more.

That is what I was wondering? A possible shorting out. In some instances where the panel has come off when driving, wires shorted out leaving the liftgate inoperative. I did a 'Search' in the Forum for posts on removing the door panel but didn't find anything related to the driver's door.
BTW, many refer to it as a remote keypad so I added that back into the subject title.

Peter

 

[MWright]

That is what I was wondering? A possible shorting out. In some instances where the panel has come off when driving, wires shorted out leaving the liftgate inoperative. I did a 'Search' in the Forum for posts on removing the door panel but didn't find anything related to the driver's door.
BTW, many refer to it as a remote keypad so I added that back into the subject title.

Peter

Thank you! I guess it would make the most sense to try to get the panel replaced entirely then. Appreciate all the help!

 

[Michael Blackburn]

Door panel removal. Plug should be at the rear middle of the door.



Fritz

 

[AARONAS]

YOU CAN TRY TO ISOLATE THE CIRCUIT BY THE PULL-THE-FUSE METHOD. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A CONTACTLESS AMMETER PUT ONE IN SERIES WITH YOUR BATTERY OR USE THE AMMETER IN YOUR VOM, SET IT ON SAY ZERO TO 5 AMP SCALE- IT SHOULD SHOW LOW CURRENT DRAIN BECAUSE OF THE ELECTRONICS THAT NEED TO REMAIN ENERGIZED TO MAINTAIN MEMORY, ETC. WE'RE TALKING A FEW MILLIAMPS. IF YOU FIND IT DRAWING SERIOUS CURRENT LIKE 1.0 AMP OR MORE TAKE OUT THE FUSE DIAGRAM, START REMOVING THE SUSPECTED CIRCUITS ONE AT A TIME AND OBSERVE THE AMMETER.
NOW DON'T FORGET WHEN YOU ARE DOING THE PROCEDURE DON'T BE FLIPPING SWITCHES, TURNING LIGHTS OR STEPPING ON THE BRAKE PEDAL, ETC. THESE ARE LOADS THAT WILL MAKE THE METER JUMP AND GIVE A FALSE READING.