2017 FPIU What to look out for | Ford Explorer Forums

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2017 FPIU What to look out for

jlangenberger

Member
Joined
December 10, 2022
Messages
11
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1
City, State
Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
2019 FPIU
Hi all,

I am looking at a 2017 FPIU for sale. Its got some issues but what car doesn't I will list everything I know about it below. I've owned P71 before and am not shy to doing repairs and maintenance. I know the water pump on this specific one was replaced at 103k miles and has had a fairly good service life verified through CarFax.

Its got all the options I want but I am always skeptical and I have not messed with explorers before.

The car has 125k Miles on it now and 11,038 engine idle hours.
  1. RPMs fluctuate +/- 500rpms while driving. The car has been sitting for a while. The dealer suspects the gas is old. The transmission seemed to shift fine just while driving the RPM needle would wobble.
  2. Check engine light with code P0430 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)
  3. And this last one only appeared after the test drive was complete when i had the ignition in the ON position so that I could hook up my code reader. It said Service AdvanceTrac dealer claims that its a worn out abs sensor in the rear.
For full disclosure i will post the CarFax below if anyone would like to look at it. Should I be worried about these issue I found while test driving and any other input would be appreciated?
 

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I can really only comment on your #1 concern. A trans flush may help or fix that 500 RPM fluctuation.

Ford also considers each "idle hour" as (if memory serves) 31 miles for maintenance purposes.
If you do go ahead, and I didn't study the service history, swap out the PTU fluid and red fluid. The PTUs are supposed to be lifetime fill...which is at best, foolhardy. If it's never been changed, it's likely very bad by now. When I got mine @ 58,000 miles, I changed all the fluids. Then changed the PTU again at the next oil change.
 






On that vehicle the P0430 code is a death code for the bank# catalytic converter, depending on your state you might to replace it with an OEM part and they aren't cheap and have been on a huge back order as well. I'd also look underneath to see if the PTU have been venting fluid that's a sure sign the PTU will need replacing. I've worked on a lot of the Police units and the converters and PTU's were the weak spots repair wise on them.
 






iv had the bouncy rev counter on my 14 mend was a trans flush only seen the service adv trax once havent seen it sence however
 






I can really only comment on your #1 concern. A trans flush may help or fix that 500 RPM fluctuation.

Ford also considers each "idle hour" as (if memory serves) 31 miles for maintenance purposes.
If you do go ahead, and I didn't study the service history, swap out the PTU fluid and red fluid. The PTUs are supposed to be lifetime fill...which is at best, foolhardy. If it's never been changed, it's likely very bad by now. When I got mine @ 58,000 miles, I changed all the fluids. Then changed the PTU again at the next oil
So the general consensus ive gotten from this thread is that the trans should be flushed. The PTU also needs its fluid replaced and if the problems persist the PTU its self may need to be replaced? How bad is the PTU if it has to be replaced?
 






So the general consensus ive gotten from this thread is that the trans should be flushed. The PTU also needs its fluid replaced and if the problems persist the PTU its self may need to be replaced? How bad is the PTU if it has to be replaced?
The RPM fluctuation is likely connected to the trans fluid...not the PTU

If you get a propane smell after driving....THAT could be the PTU. The PTU should be serviced, regardless. I've done mine at least twice, and the last time the drain plug magnet and fluid removed looked much, much, better. Replacing the PTU is costly. Someone else can probably give a better estimate than I.
 






On that vehicle the P0430 code is a death code for the bank# catalytic converter, depending on your state you might to replace it with an OEM part and they aren't cheap and have been on a huge back order as well. I'd also look underneath to see if the PTU have been venting fluid that's a sure sign the PTU will need replacing. I've worked on a lot of the Police units and the converters and PTU's were the weak spots repair wise on them.
How difficult of a replacement are the Catalytic Converters on these? I have some light experience doing some minor maintenance on my vehicles. Or is it something I'm gonna wanna have done by someone with more experience?

Also do you have a part number for the OEM Cats?
 






Eco Boost not that bad, NA engine would be a tough one because it's part of the exhaust manifold, don't have any part number you should be able to find them online should also be some write ups or video's on replacing them.
 






Hi all,

I am looking at a 2017 FPIU for sale. Its got some issues but what car doesn't I will list everything I know about it below. I've owned P71 before and am not shy to doing repairs and maintenance. I know the water pump on this specific one was replaced at 103k miles and has had a fairly good service life verified through CarFax.

Its got all the options I want but I am always skeptical and I have not messed with explorers before.

The car has 125k Miles on it now and 11,038 engine idle hours.
  1. RPMs fluctuate +/- 500rpms while driving. The car has been sitting for a while. The dealer suspects the gas is old. The transmission seemed to shift fine just while driving the RPM needle would wobble.
  2. Check engine light with code P0430 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)
  3. And this last one only appeared after the test drive was complete when i had the ignition in the ON position so that I could hook up my code reader. It said Service AdvanceTrac dealer claims that its a worn out abs sensor in the rear.
For full disclosure i will post the CarFax below if anyone would like to look at it. Should I be worried about these issue I found while test driving and any other input would be appreciated?
I'd walk away unless you have the money to put into it to fix it after purchasing. The accident reported doesn't seem to be to major, probably a fender bender. The other issue is the water pump going out at 100k miles roughly. I just replaced mine.
 






I'd walk away unless you have the money to put into it to fix it after purchasing. The accident reported doesn't seem to be to major, probably a fender bender. The other issue is the water pump going out at 100k miles roughly. I just replaced mine.
I am aware of the water pump issues on this generation of explorer. The only reason I am looking at this one is the Carfax does list the water pump was changed at a dealership. 04/21/2020 at 103,753 mi is when it says it was replaced along with a lot of other service done to fluids and flushes. I did also find the original govdeals auction where it specifically mentions the water pump being changed.


After having done more research on the engine code I pulled when I test drove it I think the Cats are bad. People have reported that that is common as these cars do a lot of idling. Ford even has a tech service bulletin on this issue that the Cats go bad and report this code. It involves replacing the Cats and doing some programming of the PCM. I am outside of coverage for this but will consult my ford dealer even if i can just get them to reprogram the PCM.


Indiana which is the state where I reside doesn't do any emissions or general inspection of vehicles. I am also giving the Used Dealership (Not a Ford Dealer) a chance to fix these engine codes and if they won't or cannot, I will not buy the car. They have it at a shop right now at no extra charge.
 






I am aware of the water pump issues on this generation of explorer. The only reason I am looking at this one is the Carfax does list the water pump was changed at a dealership. 04/21/2020 at 103,753 mi is when it says it was replaced along with a lot of other service done to fluids and flushes. I did also find the original govdeals auction where it specifically mentions the water pump being changed.


After having done more research on the engine code I pulled when I test drove it I think the Cats are bad. People have reported that that is common as these cars do a lot of idling. Ford even has a tech service bulletin on this issue that the Cats go bad and report this code. It involves replacing the Cats and doing some programming of the PCM. I am outside of coverage for this but will consult my ford dealer even if i can just get them to reprogram the PCM.


Indiana which is the state where I reside doesn't do any emissions or general inspection of vehicles. I am also giving the Used Dealership (Not a Ford Dealer) a chance to fix these engine codes and if they won't or cannot, I will not buy the car. They have it at a shop right now at no extra charge.
The CSP has ended for the Police Interceptor Utility after 12/31/2019 or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first, this is only for the cat replacement, not the recall for the PCM programming. My state doesn't do any inspections for vehicles, at least I don't think. My PIU is my first car so I don't know. If that dealer is willing to fix the issues for you for free of charge and not jack up the price, it'd be a good deal, I think. Cosmetically in the interior, I wouldn't probably buy it cause of the driver seat being worn.
 






The CSP has ended for the Police Interceptor Utility after 12/31/2019 or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first, this is only for the cat replacement, not the recall for the PCM programming. My state doesn't do any inspections for vehicles, at least I don't think. My PIU is my first car so I don't know. If that dealer is willing to fix the issues for you for free of charge and not jack up the price, it'd be a good deal, I think. Cosmetically in the interior, I wouldn't probably buy it cause of the driver seat being worn.
I'm not that crazy about my car interiors or exteriors. I'm a bit rough on my stuff so a ripped up seat isn't a big deal ill throw a seat cover on it or go pick n pull a replacement. As long as shes got a solid engine and drive train I don't care about the rest.

If they aren't gonna jack up the price and ACTUALLY fix the issues then they have my sale. I will be test driving it again before signing anything and i will have my personal code reader hooked up the entire time. Along with keeping an ear out for any issues. I reached out to the dealership and they told me its currently in their shop getting work done on it and won't be done until after the new year most likely. I told them to keep me updated and I wanted a list of all the issues they found and everything that was done to fix it so that I can verify it myself when I go to look at it again.
 






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