How to: - Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen | Page 13 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Can't thank you enough for this thread. My 01 Sport Trac has been without this feature since 2005! I resoldered those 510s and its perfect....

However, when I placed the console back in the car my lamp bulbs are switched. Driver side turns on passenger, passenger side turns on driver. I took pics of the disassembly and i put it back together the same way. It's pretty hard to mess up with those 2 tabs on the bottom that slide in, didnt have to force any screws so I'm certain its in the correct position, any ideas?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Explorer eb 99 5.0 mexico

THANKS IS RIGHT IS THE SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM, THE RESISTANCE HAD LOST FOUND IN A CALCULATOR AND THE WELD, was ready
 






Thanks so much, I was able to get the overhead display working again in my 99 sport because of this thread!
 






Can't thank you enough for this thread. My 01 Sport Trac has been without this feature since 2005! I resoldered those 510s and its perfect....

However, when I placed the console back in the car my lamp bulbs are switched. Driver side turns on passenger, passenger side turns on driver. I took pics of the disassembly and i put it back together the same way. It's pretty hard to mess up with those 2 tabs on the bottom that slide in, didnt have to force any screws so I'm certain its in the correct position, any ideas?

Your O.K. they cross over when switched. (the light beam)
 






Your O.K. they cross over when switched. (the light beam)

Yup, I was concerned about that too when I first reassembled mine (I never used the lights before) and did the reassembly in a very bright area so I didn't see where the light was shining. Once I got it outside in the dark I saw all was well. I replaced the 510's with real resistors after doing the repair 3 times.
 






A question for the non-sunroof guys. I could only find 5 screws to remove , does this sound right ?

Anyway , having difficulty removing the black housing from the console surround. Any suggestions based on what you encountered during your repair ?

Thanks

Jim
 






Please disregard the above question....found two more screws hidden behind the sponge insulation.

Thanks

Jim
 






Glad you found them. My problem I had was after reassembling it, i had the lights in upside down. Don't ask. The following times I paid closer attention to which way I took them out.
 






Thanks!!

Thank you for taking the time to do a step-by-step on this repair. I have a 2003 with sunroof so your instructions are perfect.

Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display: Mine is in a '99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two 'spot' lights for driver and passenger.
fix1.jpg
If yours isn't exactly the same, but similar, I'll bet that the problem is identical to mine. This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.

It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit by firmly pressing the button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out - or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor.

The fix will take less than an hour if you're comfortable with soldering. If you've never soldered before, this may not be a good fix to learn on, because it is such a small component. I suggest finding an electronics guy to resolder the component. It's such a minor job that it shouldn't be much at all.

Anyway, what you'll need:
  1. Torx T-10 and driver.
  2. Soldering iron capable of small soldering repairs
  3. Desoldering braid (I didn't really need it, but for the perfectionist...)
  4. Good solder for small electronic work (silver based?) Radio Shack is a good resource.
  5. Magnifying glass. Preferably the kind with the 'helping hands' alligator clips, in which you can position the glass over the work. You'll need two hands for the solder.
Here are the steps:
1. Remove the overhead console. This is done by pulling back the trim around the sunroof (if equipped) just enough to expose the black tab
fix2.jpg
This tab holds the rear portion of the console in place when tucked behind the sunroof trim (since I don't know the non-sunroof application, you're on your own here). Mine had some sticky adhesive that keeps the trim in place. The console should drop down slightly at this point.
2. Gently pull on both sides at about the middle of the console. It's held in by two pressure clips. It should pop out of the roof fixture without too much force.
fix3.jpg
3. Disconnect the two harness connectors (possibly only one if not equipped with a sunroof).
fix4.jpg
4. Working on a flat surface, remove the Torx screws (11 total for sunroof models). There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models).
fix5.jpg
5. Lift the black plastic insert housing the light bezel and buttons from the console surround.
fix6.jpg
The spotlights and temp/compass display board come out as one unit, as they are attached with connectors.
fix7.jpg
6. Unplug the connector from the white display housing
fix8.jpg
7. Using a small screwdriver, pry around each of the four retainers that hold the white plastic cover in place over the black bottom housing.
fix9.jpg
8. After lifting the white plastic cover from the black bottom housing, you'll be able to remove the circuit board with the display glass. Take care not to bend the display glass.
fix10.jpg
9. Now that you have the board removed, you can identify the failed component. With a magnifying glass, carefully check the integrity and the solders at each end of the resistors labeled "510". This is where I found the failure. Yours is likely at one or both of these. This photo is a closeup. Note that these resistors are only about 1/4" end to end.
fix11.jpg
10. As you can see, I'm not a master solderer, but it worked. There was one resistor that was clearly broken from it's original solder, but the one next to it wasn't looking too stable, so I resoldered both. These little suckers get pretty hot when the display is operating normally, so make sure that your solder is good. This is where you take your time, and make sure that you have a stable solder at all resoldered points. If it's not such a good solder, it will fail before too long. You can test your repair by plugging in the connector to the board, then plugging that directly to the harness in the car. If you get a display, you've fixed the problem!

11. Reassemble in reverse order. One thing to note, is that the small spotlights' housing have two small tabs that fit into the black 'center' housing that has the buttons, light cover, etc. You'll need to fit the spotlights into the housing first and foremost before reassembling the console.

12. Good Luck!

Although this worked for me and all others who tried it and got back to me, I can't guarantee that it will work for you. So attempt this at your own risk. Please post to the thread to let others know whether this worked for you.
 






I just wanted to add my joy. Though I know it wasn't recommended for inexperienced users, I'd like to say that my first soldering job was a success, AND I was using a soldering gun older than I am.

After not having the temp/compass for an excessive number of months I came upon this. I'm still in amazement that it worked, and it was all reassembled correctly ;)

So anyway, thank you for this excellent guide. Now I've got to tinker with some pink and yellow wires...
 












NOOoooooo!!!!! not the pink and yellow wires!!!

Yes, but I did find a grasshopper in there, he must have worked himself to death trying to fix those wires. :dead:
 






great write up going to tackle this problem and the MF switch on the steering column this weekend.
 






this really really really works thank you very much
 






Just fix my wifes 2000 XL overhead console. Only had one 510 resistor. Works great thanks Thallarsen for the post.
 






You are amazing....thanks a million


I have been driving without this feature for a few months now and when it first happened, I read this thread but was a little hesitant to attempt it...after a lengthy and futile attempt at trying to locate an entire unit to purchase, I finally gave it a shot and after dismantling the unit, I indeed found a loose #510...I soldered both #510 circuits and VOILÀ...IT WORKS...YOUR INSTRUCTIONS WERE RIGHT ON THE MONEY...THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 






If nothing is wrong with ur board just unplug and plug in ur connector a few times I did that and works just fine its from corrosion on the pins in the connector:thumbsup::D
 






Overhead Console - Temp Readout

My overhead works, but not correctly. Would anyone have experienced inaccurate temperature readout, as in 7-10 degrees hot? Would the 510 resistor issue possibly cause this?
 






THANKS IS RIGHT IS THE SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM, THE RESISTANCE HAD LOST FOUND IN A CALCULATOR AND THE WELD, was ready

what the hell did you just say?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top