2017 - Recommend Service to make it to 200,000 (now @ 90k)

[mckittrick]

Hi Everyone,

I've been a long time lurker, but now I need to reach out for the conventional wisdom.

I have a 2017 XLT, 90k currently, it's got the big 2.3L (SMA ) and although I'd like to trade up to a 2020+ Hybrid, I realize it's going to be at least 2+ years before I can. So, I need it to last to 200k as I drive a lot - usually 50k+ per year. Believe it or not, when I bought it off-lease from a reputable dealer, the sales guy said he would never buy a Ford with a turbo because it's going to go bad and cost thousands. Any truth?

I've had all the recalls/campaigns done to it, including rear toe links just last week. At the same time they replaced the gasket on the filter housing because it was pouring oil on my driveway, alignment, and the usual 5k oil change with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30. Transmission was serviced at 60k. Otherwise I haven't done much to it other than normal maintenance - tires, brakes, oil, transmission service.

Right now the driver's side "tush toaster" is bad (I had a new cushion and pad to install) and the damn blend door is stuck on face mode (and I have that, too, but it's a tough one to replace!). Beside that I love the truck (except for the hood rust, which has been fixed once already by the dealer and less than a year later started again).

So if you had to get your 2017 XLT to 200k+, as trouble-free as possible, what would you do proactively or preventatively to get it there? What would you invest in, what would you replace/upgrade now, is there anything to do "prophylactically" before it goes bad?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to get 'er to 200k without any major issues, or even beyond.

Thanks,
John

 

[94Eddie]

You are doing what you should be doing regarding oil change intervals. The other things you can do is a transmission service (drain and refill) now and every 50k miles going forward. If you have AWD then the PTU should be serviced every 30k mile because it doesn't have much fluid to start with (<1 quart) and it is heat soaked by the engine, transmission and exhaust. The PTU is the most neglected part of an AWD drive train. The rear differential is due for a service if you have AWD. The cooling system needs to be flushed and refilled. It wouldn't hurt to flush the brake system. Doing these things will go a very long way in keeping the drive train reliable to 200k miles or more. Lastly, the best thing you can do for longevity is ignore Ford's fluid replacement intervals. There is no such thing as a "lifetime" fluid.

I have seen where people posting here have gone well past 150k miles with the original turbos still going strong. The one thing they all have in common is religiously changing the oil every 3k-5k miles. The shorter the better for a long turbo lifespan. You might want to go with 3k oil change intervals to hedge your bet against a turbo failure. It also helps to let the engine idle for a few minutes before shutting it off if you have been driving it hard enough to produce boost a few minutes before stopping. It also seems that what causes most turbo replacements isn't the spinning vanes but the waste gate actuator. They tend to become loose and since they are an integral part of the turbo the whole mechanism gets replaced. I don't know if there is anything you can do to make this mechanism more reliable. Other things outside of the drive train can fail but I don't think there is much you can do about them from a prevention aspect.

 

[peterk9]

.................................... Beside that I love the truck (except for the hood rust, which has been fixed once already by the dealer and less than a year later started again).

Hi John, when you said "hood rust" were you referring to the front of the hood bubbling? That would be corrosion, not rust since the hood is aluminum. The corrective action involves replacing the hood with a new one. Is that what was done?

Peter

 

[mckittrick]

Hi John, when you said "hood rust" were you referring to the front of the hood bubbling? That would be corrosion, not rust since the hood is aluminum. The corrective action involves replacing the hood with a new one. Is that what was done?

Peter

Sorry, you're right. Corrosion, not rust.

No, it wasn't replaced -- it was "fixed" when I bought it. I literally bought it on a Thursday and they said I could pick it up Friday. 24 hours and they "fixed" it. It looked fine at the time, but lasted maybe a year or so before it started to bubble again.

 

[MrPlat]

Sorry, you're right. Corrosion, not rust.

No, it wasn't replaced -- it was "fixed" when I bought it. I literally bought it on a Thursday and they said I could pick it up Friday. 24 hours and they "fixed" it. It looked fine at the time, but lasted maybe a year or so before it started to bubble again.

The hood needs to be replaced. The corrosion and failure of the paint to adhere is from improper prep at the factory. There will be nothing they can do to repair it short of replacement or stripping it to the bare metal and prepping it. They don't do the latter.

 

[The D]

What 94Eddie said regarding “lifetime” fluids. If you search this forum you’ll find acceptable intervals for all of the fluids. Make sure you follow all of the other maintenance recommendations as well; spark plugs, air filters, anything that may have a real lifespan

Since you have the 2.3 model you won’t have to deal with the same water pump Charlie Foxtrot that us 6cyl owners experience. But it is very likely that you will have to replace the water pump before 200k. Luckily, that water pump looks to be infinitely easier to replace than the 6cyl. You could probably do it yourself if you like working on your own stuff and are willing to take the time to figure it out.

 

[peterk9]

Sorry, you're right. Corrosion, not rust.

No, it wasn't replaced -- it was "fixed" when I bought it. I literally bought it on a Thursday and they said I could pick it up Friday. 24 hours and they "fixed" it. It looked fine at the time, but lasted maybe a year or so before it started to bubble again.

Take it back and have it replaced as per TSB 22-2033. List of Useful Threads - 2011 + Explorer TSB's & SSM's
There is a lengthy thread on that issue. Check out the last page if you don't wish to go through the entire thread.

List of Useful Threads - Hood Paint bubble issue only

I just took delivery of my 2012 Explorer on Friday and was looking for advice about a tiny paint bubble on the hood about 1mm in size. It's not noticable unless you get right up on it, but I'm wondering if this is something I should be concerned about. The dealership took pictures of it and...

www.explorerforum.com

Peter