3.0L to 4.0L conversion.

[Brian Skinner]

I was just curious about a couple things that might be answered that I'm not sure about. 1) I was wondering about converting my aerostar from a 3.0 to a 4.0 for more towing capability and maybe more power, if this conversion takes place besides the pcm and engine harness needed, will the engine harness adapt to the main vehicle harness or will there have to be massive pin relocations or a lot of wiring work. 2) will the stock pump work? and what will I need as far as rear end upgrades or any upgrades will I need to do to perform this task, or should I put a v8 in it which I know about some of the modifications needed to be done. advice will help out a lot. 3) I was also curious about a concern about the little air flow as far as my ventilation concern. The blower motor seems to act like it is on high speed but the air flow seems to feel like medium low. I would like some information on this concern since it just recently quit and I have to replace it. I hope it helps my air flow but I would like some advice about what else to look for to help my air flow through the vents. Thanks

 

[Jose A.]

as to air flow, look under the dash in the passenger side, remove the glovebox for more visibility, it is very easy to remove, no tools needed, and watch the action of the Flap door when you put the Control Knob in the VENT position. sometimes they get stuck with gummy junk.

as to engine conversions, I don't know much about that, I've owned two 3.0 liter Aerostar (one a brand-new 1986 and a used 1992), and now a 1997 4.0 liter Aerostar;

I do not notice much difference in power, in fact I think the 3.0 engine has more "fire" to it than the 4.0 and in my experience the 3.0 was more "stable".

what I do like better is the 5-speed automatic transmission that came in 1997 Aerostar.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You will have to swap the engine, PCM, wiring harness, transmission, and (possibly) the exhaust. In my opinion, it's not worth it. You are better off looking for a 4.0L Aerostar.

 

[Brian Skinner]

Thanks for the info. By the way I did get the blower motor changed. The motor works good but it seems like it still has little air flow through the ducts. I check the temperature control cable and it seems to move freely. I moved my hands to the valve that operates the door and the valve seems to move but I am not sure how to get to the door itself. please help I'm stumped

 

[Jose A.]

the VENT door can be seen and reached from below the dash, passenger side, by removing the glovebox, which is very easy.

 

[Brian Skinner]

I will look further into it and see about the vent door. Thanks for the advice. And out of curiousity, has anyone fabricated a rear sway bar for the rear axle instead of having to spend $150 or more for a kit. I'm on a tight budget and I didn't know if someone has attempted to install a rear sway bar from say a mustang or whatever instead of getting a complete kit from hellwig, or atco or wherever else. Just thinking low budget( maybe I'm just being too cheap). The kits look cool and easy, but I just thought if someone attempted an alternative route, that would be easy to do, like a salvage yard parts(that aren't destroyed odviously). Just trying to save money but make the aerostar not sway as much. Thanks

 

[Brian Skinner]

I know "Cheapskate"lol

 

[Brian Skinner]

I was wondering about something, just an idea( maybe stupid) but here it goes. Is there a way I could use a newer style 3.0 intake manifold on my 3.0? I have to do valve cover gaskets and I was told that I had to remove my intake to do so, would a newer ranger upper intake work to help smooth air flow to the cylinders (composite intake) or should I just use my 1 piece throttle body/intake manifold. I was just wanting to wake up the 3.0 a little bit, but wasn't sure what it entailed. I'm not wanting to go to massive. just for better response. thanks

 

[Adam_tinkerer]

I don't have any suggestions, but I do like the way you think, Brian! I know my van does sway when it has a heavy load in it!