3" BL install: HELP/My Experiences

[Crumbo]

So I got a performance accessory 3" lift and my problems so far:

I got most of the body mounts off the pass. side except for the one behind the second row seat(impact won't get it nor will a breaker bar) feels like I'll break it before it turns

And driver side I'm having trouble with all three inside the cab(mainly the one above the tank)

Also having trouble with the e-brake lines, mostly because I dunno what I'm supposed to do with them

And I plan on not adding the shift extensions (auto tranny) unless I see a problem, will that be bad? And also the same with the wiring under the hood

Questions: with the fuel tank move up with the body?

 

[swshawaii]

Heating the bolts to soften the overused blue factory threadlock may help. GL

 

[Anime]

It's too bad you didn't go with a 2" body lift instead. Much easier.

Breaking it is fine, easier than cutting it. You're lucky if you get even one body mount off the usual way, most of the time, they are rusted solid and you have to cut the rubber and get to the metal sleeve and bolt by cutting.

Disconnect the parking brake lines before lifting the body, reconnect when it's done.

You won't need the shifter extensions with an auto tranny, those are for a manual stick shifter. Usually the wiring is fine, sometimes you'll have to move wiring harness mounts or something, but I've never seen body lift kits come with wiring extensions.

The fuel tank brackets are attached to the frame, not the body, so no, the fuel tank will stay where it is.

All a body lift does is lift the body, to give a little more front tire clearance and (maybe) some additional approach/departure angle clearance, if you move the bumpers up with it.


Don't forget to take out the radiator fan shroud bolts before raising it up.

 

[Crumbo]

So if the fuel tank stays on the frame, how with the fill tube stay in the fuel door? Or do I have to extend the fill tube?

 

[rickybobby]

the rubber hose will flex to make up the difference. all that happens is the bend angle changes

 

[Crumbo]

How should I drill out the bushings? Do I have to leave them in and drill or do they come out?

 

[Anime]

The fill tube will just go up 3 inches and won't sit on the frame anymore.

It'd be quite a task to drill out the 12mm Class 10.9 bolts. Generally the stock mounts just get cut up and you saw/cut through the inside.


You might consider getting new body mounts while you're at it:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122116

 

[94xltman]

I used a saw zaw on my rear body mount bolt, trust me doing a body lift by yourself sucks, but id do it again!!!!!

 

[Crumbo]

Conclusion:
Instead of drilling out the stock bushings like in the instructions, I just used an impact to get the bolts thru them

The bushing over the fuel tank, I did not put a lift block on it(9/10 is good enough for me) I just used a grander to cut the head off the bolt

All the bolts I got were too long for the front two bushings, so I added a stack of washers to both of them

I did not remove the e brake cable and it still works fine

After the lift, I could not move the transfer shift knob, so I cut the left side off of the tranny access thing and it works fine

I have a couple rough spots in the steering(was told it goes away after a while

I had to pull the positive battery cable up to get it to fit on the battery

Thanks everyone for the help
My next project is the warrior shackles and f150 spacers