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3rd light trial and error need help

Bmillerleile

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Joined
August 30, 2019
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City, State
North, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 Ford Explorer Xlt
So I have a 1995 Ford Explorer 5 speed and the 3rd tail light went out just before inspection, ordered a new light which bypasses the ballast cleaned the connectors, nothing looked for tow package hookup nothing, checked the 10amp fuse bye where the ballast was fuse is intact “still not lighting up” can’t figure out why brand new assembly not working please help
 



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So I have a 1995 Ford Explorer 5 speed and the 3rd tail light went out just before inspection, ordered a new light which bypasses the ballast cleaned the connectors, nothing looked for tow package hookup nothing, checked the 10amp fuse bye where the ballast was fuse is intact “still not lighting up” can’t figure out why brand new assembly not working please help

Have you tested for 12V power and ground (brake pedal depressed) on the wires that used to go to the ballast? On my '97 the ballast was either in the rear roof or inside the upper part of the lift-gate, I can't remember which. I converted my fluorescent 3rd brake light to an LED strip.and dumped the ballast completely. I just hooked up the wires that fed the ballast to the LED strip. Total cost was around $13 for the weatherproof LED strip.
 






Can you link to this assembly?

Is it LED? If so is it possible you have the wire polarity reversed? Do as koda mentioned and check for 12V between the two wires going to it.

Wait a second. Are you trying to install this without removing or wiring around the ballast? That could account for it, the ballast would be putting out high voltage but too little current for incandescent bulbs. The ballast could also be putting out AC voltage high enough to fry LEDs by subjecting them to an excessive reverse voltage.

The wiring diagram I see for that, has just the single fuse for all three rear lights so if yours is the same, having the L & R lights working would indicate the fuse is still good, that power is at least getting to some point past the brake switch (as your model year seems to have the old single in/out (2 contacts total) connections brake switch that must split 3 ways later for each of the 3 brake lights).
 






Can you link to this assembly?

Is it LED? If so is it possible you have the wire polarity reversed? Do as koda mentioned and check for 12V between the two wires going to it.

Wait a second. Are you trying to install this without removing or wiring around the ballast? That could account for it, the ballast would be putting out high voltage but too little current for incandescent bulbs. The ballast could also be putting out AC voltage high enough to fry LEDs by subjecting them to an excessive reverse voltage.

The wiring diagram I see for that, has just the single fuse for all three rear lights so if yours is the same, having the L & R lights working would indicate the fuse is still good, that power is at least getting to some point past the brake switch (as your model year seems to have the old single in/out (2 contacts total) connections brake switch that must split 3 ways later for each of the 3 brake lights).

@J_C - Are you asking me for a link to my LED conversion? I did do a thread on the conversion, but it was 4-5 years ago and I don't remember what I called the thread, I'm sure you can eventually find several LED conversion threads by searching the forum. The hardest part of the LED conversion was taking the red lens off the light housing, which required heating it in an oven to soften the glue w/out melting it.
 






^ No, asking Bmillerleile what he's putting in now, in case there is something potentially problematic about it and/or determine if it's using LEDs.

It could just be generic Chinese junk that is defective, and if so, may or may not be user serviceable to get it working.
 






^ No, asking Bmillerleile what he's putting in now, in case there is something potentially problematic about it and/or determine if it's using LEDs.

It could just be generic Chinese junk that is defective, and if so, may or may not be user serviceable to get it working.

Okay. He should try hooking his new light up directly to his battery to see if it even works. He may have fried it if he's using the wires coming from the ballast, or it may just be defective. I recall I hooked up my LED light to a small 9V battery to test it.
 






@J_C - Are you asking me for a link to my LED conversion? I did do a thread on the conversion, but it was 4-5 years ago and I don't remember what I called the thread, I'm sure you can eventually find several LED conversion threads by searching the forum. The hardest part of the LED conversion was taking the red lens off the light housing, which required heating it in an oven to soften the glue w/out melting it.
'97 third brake light conversion to LED
 












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