Justin_
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 30, 2020
- Messages
- 199
- Reaction score
- 76
- City, State
- Missoula
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
- Callsign
- KJ7IKI
Hey guys, I have a 98 SOHC Sport 2 door that I am having problems with suddenly.
Bit of background to start, I have had this vehicle for about 11,000 miles and 18 months and I rolled it about 3000 miles ago. Over the time I have had the vehicle I have had some minor issues (fuel pump failure, exhaust try to fall off, etc) but no real engine issues. The entire time I have had the vehicle I have had bank 1 too rich and bank 2 too rich, but I have never been able to find out why. Also I still get 12MPG with a 4.10 axle, so I just kinda left it alone.
When I got the vehicle it had a vacuum leak issue, but I believe I have resolved that at this point by replacing a number of seals and hoses. When its working it idles very well and stable at right around 600 RMP. A few days ago I went up a mountain and came back down and all was good. The path was a bit icy, but nothing that demanding on the engine. Took the highway about 30 miles to my folks house and had dinner. A few hours later I left to go home and I started to get Cylinder 1 and 6 misfire issues. I started looking into it the next day. First off I replaced the plugs, wires, and coils as I had never done that and they were kinda old anyway, figured I would get them out of the way. When I pulled out all the old plugs they looked worn, but not overly clean or dirty and they were all relatively even. I also tried disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU however there was not much of a difference.
Over the whole day of messing around I still ended up with 1+6 misfire codes, I also once got a cylinder 3 code. Sometimes I will get misfire codes, but the vehicle will run mostly fine, sometimes I will get misfire codes and the vehicle will be shaky. This could be because of the engine switching from individual fuel injection to banked fuel injection (read from somewhere online, could be wrong). When I am getting misfire codes and the vehicle is running well I will only have the CEL light flash under high acceleration, when it is shakey it will almost constantly have the CEL flash.
Here is the fun part. Yesterday when I was about to give up the engine decided to run as good as it had ever run. The acceleration was great and I swear the throttle response was better than ever. However today I went for a ride down the highway. For the first 10 miles it was great, for the next 10 it was a bit sluggish, then it started to misfire and I got off the highway. Form that point on I have had misfires again.
While I was poking around yesterday I checked the fuel pressure and it was ~50-55. Pretty shaky between them, i'm guessing that is from the fuel pump being pulsed. I also checked compression in cylinder 6 for the hell of it and it was about 150, so that seems fine.
I don't know if it does or does not have anything to do with it, but it has only just started to get above 40f on a regular basis here, got up to 70 over the weekend.
Some other testing I did involved pressing the gas when starting the engine to check for injector leak and did not hear a single firing. I also tried coasting down a hill in low gear and hitting the gas at the bottom, and there was no smoke out the tailpipe.
When I rolled the vehicle I somehow managed to put a hole in the passenger valve cover and that did leak some oil onto one of the cats before I replaced the cover. To clean that up I took a plumbers torch to the cat and burned off all the oil.
Some other information, when I got the vehicle, the vacuum lines that control the EGR and EVAP systems were removed and plugged. When I did a body swap after the rollover I got all the vacuum lines back to factory.
I have already replaced the upper and lower intake seals
I have always done regular oil changes myself and have never seen anything in the oil while doing it. I have ran synthetic in it the whole time, but still replaced about every 3000 miles. I also did an oil change right after it rolled.
Things replaced ~5000-11000 miles ago:
Intake gaskets
PCV valve
Upper O2 sensors
Fuel Pump
Things replaced >3000 miles ago:
Spark Plugs
Wires
Coil Pack
All small vacuum lines
ABS module (ABS never worked and I was trying to figure out why while I had another vehicle I was pulling parts from)
Passenger valve cover+seal (cracked in rollover)
Thermostat
Muffler, resonator, and tailpipe
All steering and suspension components
Brake pads and rotors
Front wheel bearings
Passenger side front diff seal and had diff serviced
Probably more, but I think that is everything relevant and more.
About 4000 miles ago had a transmission coolant line break and I had to replace it as well as all the transmission fluid.
Im running 31" tires, but with 4.10 gearing I don't think that is even a factor.
So, does anybody have any ideas on where I could go next with troubleshooting this? As it can go in and out I am wondering if there is a loose vacuum line or something, but I don't know where to look. It could also be related to the banks 1+2 too rich codes, but I have not been able to source that issue either.
Thanks
Bit of background to start, I have had this vehicle for about 11,000 miles and 18 months and I rolled it about 3000 miles ago. Over the time I have had the vehicle I have had some minor issues (fuel pump failure, exhaust try to fall off, etc) but no real engine issues. The entire time I have had the vehicle I have had bank 1 too rich and bank 2 too rich, but I have never been able to find out why. Also I still get 12MPG with a 4.10 axle, so I just kinda left it alone.
When I got the vehicle it had a vacuum leak issue, but I believe I have resolved that at this point by replacing a number of seals and hoses. When its working it idles very well and stable at right around 600 RMP. A few days ago I went up a mountain and came back down and all was good. The path was a bit icy, but nothing that demanding on the engine. Took the highway about 30 miles to my folks house and had dinner. A few hours later I left to go home and I started to get Cylinder 1 and 6 misfire issues. I started looking into it the next day. First off I replaced the plugs, wires, and coils as I had never done that and they were kinda old anyway, figured I would get them out of the way. When I pulled out all the old plugs they looked worn, but not overly clean or dirty and they were all relatively even. I also tried disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU however there was not much of a difference.
Over the whole day of messing around I still ended up with 1+6 misfire codes, I also once got a cylinder 3 code. Sometimes I will get misfire codes, but the vehicle will run mostly fine, sometimes I will get misfire codes and the vehicle will be shaky. This could be because of the engine switching from individual fuel injection to banked fuel injection (read from somewhere online, could be wrong). When I am getting misfire codes and the vehicle is running well I will only have the CEL light flash under high acceleration, when it is shakey it will almost constantly have the CEL flash.
Here is the fun part. Yesterday when I was about to give up the engine decided to run as good as it had ever run. The acceleration was great and I swear the throttle response was better than ever. However today I went for a ride down the highway. For the first 10 miles it was great, for the next 10 it was a bit sluggish, then it started to misfire and I got off the highway. Form that point on I have had misfires again.
While I was poking around yesterday I checked the fuel pressure and it was ~50-55. Pretty shaky between them, i'm guessing that is from the fuel pump being pulsed. I also checked compression in cylinder 6 for the hell of it and it was about 150, so that seems fine.
I don't know if it does or does not have anything to do with it, but it has only just started to get above 40f on a regular basis here, got up to 70 over the weekend.
Some other testing I did involved pressing the gas when starting the engine to check for injector leak and did not hear a single firing. I also tried coasting down a hill in low gear and hitting the gas at the bottom, and there was no smoke out the tailpipe.
When I rolled the vehicle I somehow managed to put a hole in the passenger valve cover and that did leak some oil onto one of the cats before I replaced the cover. To clean that up I took a plumbers torch to the cat and burned off all the oil.
Some other information, when I got the vehicle, the vacuum lines that control the EGR and EVAP systems were removed and plugged. When I did a body swap after the rollover I got all the vacuum lines back to factory.
I have already replaced the upper and lower intake seals
I have always done regular oil changes myself and have never seen anything in the oil while doing it. I have ran synthetic in it the whole time, but still replaced about every 3000 miles. I also did an oil change right after it rolled.
Things replaced ~5000-11000 miles ago:
Intake gaskets
PCV valve
Upper O2 sensors
Fuel Pump
Things replaced >3000 miles ago:
Spark Plugs
Wires
Coil Pack
All small vacuum lines
ABS module (ABS never worked and I was trying to figure out why while I had another vehicle I was pulling parts from)
Passenger valve cover+seal (cracked in rollover)
Thermostat
Muffler, resonator, and tailpipe
All steering and suspension components
Brake pads and rotors
Front wheel bearings
Passenger side front diff seal and had diff serviced
Probably more, but I think that is everything relevant and more.
About 4000 miles ago had a transmission coolant line break and I had to replace it as well as all the transmission fluid.
Im running 31" tires, but with 4.10 gearing I don't think that is even a factor.
So, does anybody have any ideas on where I could go next with troubleshooting this? As it can go in and out I am wondering if there is a loose vacuum line or something, but I don't know where to look. It could also be related to the banks 1+2 too rich codes, but I have not been able to source that issue either.
Thanks